1973 Aquasport 22-2 Rebuild (Attempt)

[Rusty Shackleford]

I purchased this beautiful stallion of a bayboat back in 2015 with the intent of parting out the good stuff and restoring. After sorting out a few issues with the twin Nissan 70s TDLIs, I we ended up fishing the gelcoat off the old 222 for the next few years. Sadly life got in the way and she sat for the last two years. Alas, it is time to tear into the belly of the beast and bring her back to her former glory.... that said I have a few questions I hope to clear up before I finish the demo. My expectations and questions are below. I have lurked on these boards for a while, but have a few areas of conflicting information, input or links to good builds are welcomed.

* 2 month timeline: its almost summer and I don't mind repeating a few years from now with a bigger budget
* 5-8K target budget: fingers crossed
* keeping the TDLIs and the fuel tank (I think)
* I have a detailed schedule and hope to have answers before the questions arise

[wingnut]

Good looking rig! Can’t wait to see it come together. Do you have an idea what work needs to be done? Typical sole/transom etc?

Curious about your reference to Shackleford - reason I ask is I grew up fishing/surfing Shackleford Banks in NC.

[Rusty Shackleford]

Rusty Shackleford is Dale Gribble's alias. Wish it was more creative.

Build Plan:
•   Support/Remove Gunwale (and all 100+ screws)
•   Cut/remove deck from the bow platform to the transom
•   Cut remove the foam from the stringers
•   Tab old stringers
•   Add 1-layer 1708 and epoxy across the entire hull
•   Add a few PVC Rigging tubes
•   Fill stringers with 6lb closed cell pour in foam
•   Plywood or Divinycell deck with 1 skin bottom, 2 skins top
•   Reinstall the repaired gunwale, console and leaning post.
•   Sand, Paint, and Party

In a few years I'll do the transom, add a big Armstrong bracket, and a new 4 stroke...

Now for a few questions (see photo):
1) When I replace the cap, I plan to just bolt it back, and add some reinforcements... maybe 4-5 ribs up from the deck?
2) Do I need to remove the inner hull liner from the sides of the boat? Or leave it?
3) How to attach new deck to the sides of the hull? Just tab it into the side? Or leave an edge when I cut out? (this may depend on what I do with that liner section on the sides)

Divinycell vs Plywood? Both are pricey...

Should I try to save the deck or liner at all or just use all new?

[RickK]

If you want a quick down and dirty new floor, cut around the perimeter leaving 2" all around. That includes the trough. Do your stringer work - 4lb is adequate - and check that the stringers are solidly attached to the 36oz woven roven that part of each stringer.
If this is a temporary "patch" I would lay 5/8" plywood hot coated with resin scruffed up after hardening and then covered in 12 or 1708 per your schedule above, on top of the 2" lip. I would screw the floor to the lip with some glue made of thickened resin - add cabosil or wood flour, mix with a red paint mixer like this

(the red ones are about a ft long) until smooth.  Then add hardener and mix again.
Then you can use the same glue to make the jointer filet around the edge of the floor and then add 2" of cloth around perimeter - 1" up and down to lock it down. Then paint and if you are not particular since you're going to redo in a couple years you may be happy with this. Notice I didn't touch the gunnel or liner at all. Do that when you really dig into the boat.

[Rusty Shackleford]

It’s been two months...
Good news: my dad is doing better.
Bad news: zero progress on the boat.
Other news: Found a 1986 170 to use when I’m back home taking care of my dad.

Next step:
I’m about to pull the cap. Figure I need a small frame to help support it and keep the shape. How robust does this need to be and is moving it around a 2 person job or more?

I want to keep the casting platform, hatches, etc.

BUT.... if I’m pulling the cap should I just pull the whole liner out or leave the bow in and cut the deck? Any estimates on weight? What’s holding the sides of the liner in? Do I need the liner?

Sorry for all the questions, but thank you for any insight.

[RickK]

What happened to your Dad, if you don't mind me asking? I made some saw horses to help keep the shape - nothing fancy or stout. I screwed a 2x4 across the rear of the cap before I removed mine, to keep that shape and measurement. You can move the cap by yourself. It should be just the upper cap on that model.