Rainboat 170 - Rebuild Started

[larsli68]

Great job! Looking good!

[Rainboat]

I finally got back on the project a little bit. Put the rest of the deck in and ut a coat of epoxy on. Also ran a filet along the deck/gunwale transition so I can add some tabbing. I'm going to glass the deck. I'm curious how heavy folks usually glass the deck?

[Rainboat]

I took the gel coat off to take a better look at the hull and previous repairs. I have a couple of questions

It looks like I have to fill some areas to bring them level with the rest of the hull.
Do people usually fill with layers of glass or with fairing material then glass?

There are a lot of pinhole and small voids in the hull after sanding gel coat. Should I mix a thin slurry to fill? I'm thinking of adding a layer of glass to the hull after filling pinholes.

Are the lifting strakes hollow or solid?

Thanks,
N

[AquasportEd]

I dont have experience with this, but I would imagine you'd want to fill the holes first, then glass

How did you end up flipping the hull? Im not at that stage of my build yet, but ive been trying to come up with a good way for when the time comes...

[Rainboat]

To flip it I got it off the trailer onto pads on the ground. I then lag bolted two (three or four may be better) 2x8's to the top of each rail. Like two big thwarts at rail level where the liner attaches. Then six guys lifted and rolled it. I put some soft stuff under the rail and tried to get it over smoothly without letting all the weight sit on the gunwale. Seemed to go well.  The epoxy cracked on some plywood (not deck) I had attached to the gunwale. Not too structural so I'll just filet back on. The guys lifted it up and I put horses underneath.
It was a little dicey but I think its all ok.

I should have taken pictures.

[Ulysses485]

Cool rebuild. What are your finishes going to look like? Gelcoat or two part paint? I would say to fill all the pinholes with a thickened (cabosil) resin and then going over the hull bottom with a layer of 1708 glass and then mat for sanding smooth. I didn't catch if you went down to the bare inside of hull with 1708 like Rickk but if not this would make it extra strong. However, it might be difficult to get all the contours and radius around the lifting strikes just right. For larger than about 1/4 -3/8'' voids, I would taper/prep the void and lay up some glass.

[RickK]

When I ground down the bottom of my hull I found two big low areas by the ransom that were bowed up toward the hull, like a "hook" in the hull. It was like 3/8" so I decided to fill it in. I used various sized pieces of CSM and built it up and then faired all of that in.

[Rainboat]

A little more progress. Put a layer of 1708 on the bottom (didn't go too smoothly). Also put a skeg on the bottom. Skeg is Batu (mahogany) epoxy + filet + tab.

[RickK]

It will be interesting to see how that skeg affects the hull handling.  The 170 handled fine in its original design - no sliding, turned fine. That skeg is very aggressive looking - I would think a 1/2" tall skeg would have done the trick.

[Rainboat]

I'll let you know. I have one on my other boat, works great. Easily modified.
N