175 Refurb

[wingnut]

To remove the front panel below the helm, you will need to take the wheel off from the front. There is a nut that you remove, then you will probably need to use a puller to get the wheel off unless it wasn’t really tightened. There is a small chock that goes in the column - shaped like a “D”, make sure this doesn’t get lost!

Once the wheel is off, there is a metal frame that has three bolts that anchor it to the console from the front. You can see the back of these bolts in your photo. This frame holds the whole assembly in place.

Once that is off, the whole steering assembly will drop down inside the console and you will be free to replace the front panel.

[CTsalt12]

Thank you wingnut and Brad.... I think I got it now.  Hoping I don’t need a puller but I’ll get one if needed. 

Got the new tank today from Alloy metal works.  Phil is a stand up guy I think.  He sells a lot of tanks to Aquasport owners, he knows about this forum, and in fact he had just shipped a tank to an AS owner in Oregon.  He was explaining to me how his aluminum tanks have baffles which standard moellers do not.  On a big boat with a lot of gas sloshing around that can really rock the boat.  Also the way the plastic tanks tend to warp leads to leaks.  I certainly experienced that.  I am sold on aluminum as the way to go to. 

[BradC]

I’m around the corner from you so a meetup for the puller is a no brainer.... don’t buy for a once-off.

[CTsalt12]

Thanks Brad-may take you up on that depending how it goes.  Back to the fuel tank..  going to use a semi-Pascoe method and affix some PVC strips to the bottom of the tank going horizontally (east to west).  I think I’ll use the existing straps that are on the boat now.  Unless someone can convince me otherwise?  For some reason this pascoe fella says to not use rubber around the aluminum tanks, so I’ll need to use an alternate material between the stainless straps and the aluminum tank.  Any ideas here?

Got some chipped areas of the coffin I will epoxy too. 

[CTsalt12]

Alright so... think I’ve figured out how I’ll do this. 

1. Cut PVC strips just about an 1/8 inch short of the tank edges.  1 foot apart, 1/4 inch from ends of tank (from pascoe literature.

2. Roughed up tank and PVC surfaces.

3. Will 5200 to tanks leaving no gaps between PVC and tank.

4. I will use the existing tie down fasteners to keep tank secure, but replace the rubber buffer material with vinyl hose materiel a cut open.

5. Gasoila on fuel pickup threads and standard sender/ground installations all heat shrunken.

[CTsalt12]

Progress has been slow since it got cold again and I have been consumed with “honey do” projects.  But, getting there.

Fuel fill vent and feed lines are routed.  Along with ground wires. Not an easy job with a 6 inch pie plate, I got some bloody knuckles.  Easier to push than pull. 

Tank coffin is Just about cleaned up, almost all silicone off.  You’ll see some areas of the tank are really banged up and fiberglass is worn through.  I plan to drill all new holes and patch up these damaged areas with thickened epoxy. 




 

[CTsalt12]

I should add, I had to cut my fuel fill cap neck a bit, just so I could mount the 1.5 inch hose to it with two hose clamps.  Ridiculous how little space there is in there.  The angle of the fill neck leaves about no space between neck and the hull of the boat.  By grinding off a bit, the hose and 2 reverse clamps still have plenty of purchase on the neck, and no pressure on the hull.  Not ideal but whatever.

[wingnut]

Yep, that fill line is NOT fun to thread up through the hull. Not a lot of space through the access hatch to get a hand in either.

I had to replace my livewell through hull, using that 4” hatch... literally got my arm trapped past the elbow inside the hull! Took 5-10 minutes of contortionist maneuvers to get free. Not my finest hour.

[boatnamesue]

Coming along good.  Remember to ground the fuel fill neck.  Probably easiest to feed the ground wire along the fuel fill hose then couple it with your fuel sender wiring to terminal block. 

[CTsalt12]

Ah yes In those pictures I had actually forgotten to feed the green ground wire, so I had the pleasure of routing it twice, bundled the ground with the fill or vent, I forget.  10 gauge green wire to a tab on the tank. 

[CTsalt12]

Alright tank is In with plumbing and strapped down.  sender + ground wires are connected at the tank end. 

I think I got it right?  Love to hear anyone’s thoughts on things I missed or could Improve before I seal the coffin Down.  You’ll note I could not find pink wire (West marine doesn’t carry it) so had to improvise with red that I will tape over and mark where it exits the rigging channel. 

[RickK]

Looks good!!

[Fish Head]

Hey Ctsalt, I am also in the same stage of installing the tank. I added/5200’d on plastic shims (dollar store cutting boards cut & heat formed to shape) for extra protection for straps to tank contact in case of any unforeseen rubbing on the tank. I once had a loose driver side wheel well plastic housing rub a pin hole over time in the transmission housing on my vehicle. The transmission housing wall thickness had to be 3/8. Not sure what the vinyl hose could do. In my tank pic it shows 4 beefy brackets I had the tank guy add that I secure to bulk heads. 2 (1/4-20) bolts on each bracket to take care of up/down and side to side movement.Also have 3/8in clearance available at the front of tank for expansion.  Straps are extra insurance. Just curious are you just relying on the straps or are you foaming your tank in place also?Cheers T

[CTsalt12]

Hey Fish Head.  Your tank and deck looks great.  To answer your question I am not planning on adding any other methods of securing the tank.  There really is not much room for the tank to move north/south or east/west.  On top of the tank the fuel lines will be making contact with the coffin lid (for better or worse).  There’s a little room north south maybe an inch, but I figure the straps + weight of fuel it’s not going anywhere.  East/west the coffin is wider at the deck than it is in the bottom. At the bottom there really isn’t much room at all so I think I am good.

One thing that did bother me a bit is that the bottom of the coffin is not cored.  The holes where the straps pass through had some significant spider cracks and signs of stress. 

Is that a 170 in your picture?  I like the wood and raised area on the floor where the console will sit.  Did you build that?  If you read earlier in my thread you’ll see I’m trying to do something similar but nowhere near as sexy.  Just simple PVC board shims to keep water out. 

[Fish Head]

I am my father’s son, and we used to call my Dad “Mr. Safety”!!    I am thinking the straps my not be enough when your jumping 2 or 3 footers once in awhile. Maybe I have been watching to many Haulover inlet videos on YouTube.  The Pascoe method also had pvc brackets/boards 5200’d to the tank top for support. Another idea( I might add a couple to the sides) is too add like 2inch thick pieces of insulation foam board maybe 4 per side to limit movement. I’ts PE closed cell foam. Maybe just 2 fore/aft. Not that much surface area against the tank but limits the fore/aft - side to side movement.
Thanks for the compliment on the deck. Actually that is PVC boards on the deck and Mahogany from a big box store.lol Biscuit jointed together glued and screwed to the deck and SS T- nuts attached from the bottom that will hold down the console. Wanted to keep console serviceable. Teak was out of the budget. Used teak stain and about 5 layers of UV Spar varnish. When console sits on top just about 3/4in shows. I know I will have to maintain the wood but I like the gaudy high glossy wood accents. Wait till you see my console when finished, looks like a Buick!! Ha
Hull is a 1972 19’6.
Keep your greasy side down, Cheers