175 Refurb

[CTsalt12]

Hi All,

I'm finally getting around to replacing a fuel tank on my 175 which has caused me a lot of issues.

While I'm at it, I will re-paint the non skid, and make some console / dashboard modifications. 

Other considerations:
-widening rigging channel deck hole, and adding a flange to keep any drips out.
-cutting hatch aft of console in the well documented open space these boats have.
-potentially re glassing coffin hatch, if need be (need some help making decision here)

Posting here as there are a ton of 170 rebuilds, but maybe not so many 175's.  I've also got a few unique things on my boat I'd like to share.

[CTsalt12]

And one pic of the console.  I am thinking about moving a few things around.

First off, move the ignition key to the right side to streamline wiring and console organization, so ignition can follow the throttle cables and gauges into the rigging channel.

Secondly, I will be removing the hardwood on the top of console and adding large flush cupholders with drains, to hold not only beverages but also spare lures or 'plugs' as us striper fisherman call them.  This way they're not bouncing around in the trough below the gauges.

Third-potentially move my switches from the port side to the current location of engine gauges, and put gauges under steering wheel.  The gauges tend to get switched by accident now.  I will be replacing with a new panel from New Wire Marine.  I can also re-purpose that rectangular area with a glovebox for phones etc.

Lastly, new hatch from Boat Outfitters as mine is broken and the design is kind of silly.  If I have time, I'd like to replace the dashboard material from the fugly worn plastic material...

[RickK]

That's a unique "shim" for the tank 
When you move the ignition switch, make sure you keep it on the vertical side of console. Mine was on the same pane as the switches on your console and twice I had the switch short out from water, of course while I was on the water and now stranded.

[CTsalt12]

Thanks Rick.  Idea with the ignition being that on the vertical plane it's less likely to have contact with water leaks?

And yeah, the Previous owner did a few things wrong with the tank install.  The shim is one of them, to make the tank fit in too long a space.  The tank was also too high and did not have a 90 degree fitting, which caused it to warp downwards-one of the reasons I was getting water in the tank.  The unusual shape is one of the reasons I'm going with a custom aluminum.  Old tank held about 20 gallons, new one should hold 35 which I'm pretty pumped about.  I do a lot of long-ish runs for a boat this size.

[RickK]

On my boat I didn't leave the key in the ignition and rain would get into the slot where the key would go and shorted out the electrical somehow. Keeping the ignition on the vertical has stopped that. Maybe I could have left the key, which has a plastic cover that shields the slot, in the ignition?

[CTsalt12]

Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting. 

1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin.  You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage.  I'm not going to.  All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case).  You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.

2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin.  There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow.  Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter.  You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.

3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft.  I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.

Any recommended methods for #3?  I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started.  I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.   

I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way?  I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.

[CTsalt12]

The attached images show what I am going for.  Going to cut shims/buffer for the console to rest on, made of PVC strips.  Is there any reason to buy marine starboard over this PVC material?  Seems like a great cheaper widely available alternative.. 

The reason I'm doing all this is I have a very leaky console.  The console flange is chipped and uneven, deck surface is uneven and worn down.  it makes a tight seal near impossible.  I'm hoping this creates a nice dry seal and helps keep water out of my fuel coffin as well.

Thinking I will drill the PVC into the deck and seal with silicone or 5200...  Then drill the console into the PVC strips only.

Any thoughts about my direction here?

[RickK]

I think its a good idea. I made my console so it sat flush on the deck and I caulked it down and later found out it was leaking when it rained. I opened it and I had an inch of water in the bottom. I used a sawzall and laid the blade so it's side was flat on the deck and forced it through the caulking at the rear of the console in the 2 corners and and inch or two toward the center. All the water came out quickly and now I know it'll drain. The thing I would think about if you set it up with too much gap is that you'll have some visitors move into your console. Down here in FL we have a lot of paper and mud dauber wasps that will squeeze into anything they can and make a home. I saw a couple wasps disappearing into the 1/4" gap I have under the built-in seat on the console - yup, a nest or two found. I also have a 1/8" gap where the back of the seat closes on the console and inside I found some 3" nests.

[RickK]

Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting. 

1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin.  You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage.  I'm not going to.  All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case).  You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.

2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin.  There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow.  Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter.  You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.

3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft.  I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.

Any recommended methods for #3?  I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started.  I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.   

I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way?  I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.

Do you have the trough from console to the aft, on your boat? There was a recent thread where the member had a hole from a PO drilled into the end of the trough and they routed fuel line and other wiring through that hole into the fuel coffin. If you have the trough, can you take a better pic of the end near the console and that hole you're talking about please? We were trying to figure out how the factory routed that stuff originally. Looks like you have the answer.

[CTsalt12]

Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting. 

1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin.  You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage.  I'm not going to.  All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case).  You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.

2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin.  There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow.  Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter.  You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.

3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft.  I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.

Any recommended methods for #3?  I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started.  I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.   

I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way?  I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.

Do you have the trough from console to the aft, on your boat? There was a recent thread where the member had a hole from a PO drilled into the end of the trough and they routed fuel line and other wiring through that hole into the fuel coffin. If you have the trough, can you take a better pic of the end near the console and that hole you're talking about please? We were trying to figure out how the factory routed that stuff originally. Looks like you have the answer.

Not the trough per se with the removable cover, but I have a rigging channel with a gap in the stringers for everything to pass through.  The fuel line leaves the coffin in the stern and via this hole, see pic, and meets the fuel water separator in the starboard

[RickK]

Oh, so you don't have the trough.

[ecotrek4]

I've got a 1994 175 also and was wondering if you could tell me if the coffin has a drain hole in the aft for any water that leaks into it? And did your tank have a fuel leak? I'm hoping to just clean and refurbish mine through access covers. Thanks.

[CTsalt12]

Sure thing.  There is a drain in the center stern lowest point of the fuel coffin.  There’s also sort of inadvertent drains where the tank holding mounts (don’t know what these are called) go into the coffin.     My tank was leaking through the sender and it could not be repaired.  Poly tank and the bolts where the sender screws screw into were rotted.  Post your tank situation and I’ll see if I can help.   

Any reason I should replace my tank mounts?   


I made some progress cleaning the coffin, getting silicone off the coffin cover and epoxying old holes I won’t use anymore.   Also widened the hole to the rigging Channel (not the dreaded trough) to make my life easier.  It was a little sketchy with the jigsaw but managed to not damage any wires.

Picking up new tank from Phil at Alloy metal works tomorrow.  Excited to get to work!

[CTsalt12]

I am tossing around the idea of replacing my dashboard (PO installed cheap black plastic).  So I’m looking at my steering wheel.  Read many threads on how to get these off.  I’ve never seen anything like this . The back of the bolt that attaches to the steering wheel (and turns when I turn the wheel) has this flange and what looks like a removable cap.  Before I go and rip this off, should I??  Anyone seen this before?

[BradC]

Don’t think the flange has to be removed unless you’re replacing just the shaft? The steering wheel comes off and the entire mechanism drops out through the inside of the console. Hope this helps