dmont's flatback build

[dmont]

Good call. I think the shift and throttle cables will probably be a struggle. The ends on those are pretty long. I might try to use a heat gun and soften up the inside corners of those 90s to give me a little more room.

[dmont]

Deck is down. My wife and I put it in. We dry fit it and that was a good practice run for us. The final install went smooth. It was in two pieces. The bottom of the deck has two layers of 1708 across it plus two extra layers over the fuel tank. The top of the deck has 6" 1708 tape over the joints right now. The deck was glued down with arjay bonding putty and SS screws with washers squeeze it down. I am happy with how it turned out, pretty good fit up. next step is putty around all the edges and gaps, then two layers of 1708 over the top. After that I will build the front casting deck and put in a couple pieces of coosa on each side that run from the deck up the side and attach to the cap, these will double as rod storage too.

[Ulysses485]

Coming along nicely Sir! Nice work! I bet it feels good to have the deck down! Not sure how you got the wife to help so hats off to you for your bribery skills. hahaha.

What size core did you go with?

[dmont]

I told my wife a couple weeks ago that I was going to get a buddy to help me with putting in the deck, and she offered up her help! I said great! She will probably help me more with finish work and paint, she does a much better job at that stuff than me.

The core is 3/4" honeycomb made by Carbon Core. It was just what they had at our local fiberglass place (Advanced Plastics). I think it is the same stuff as any other honeycomb brands.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Nice. Is the front casting deck going back in or are you keeping it one level?

[dmont]

I am going to put a small casting deck in. It will not be as big as the original one. someone in the past had replaced the casting deck and shortened it up and I am going to copy the size deck they made. If you look at my last pictures you can see where there is a yellowish color paint up front and an old seam from the shortened front deck. That is where I will put the casting deck. I wanted to shorten it up to leave room for a big above deck coffin box or large cooler to sit in the middle of the deck long ways.

[dmont]

Latest Progress. The deck is glassed in. Two layers of 1708/1700 (ran out of 1708 halfway through). two extra layers of 1700 over the fuel tank area. braces along the sides will be going where there is no gelcoat put down on the deck.



started work on the front casting deck. It will have two compartments in it. the front compartment will be an anchor locker (3/4" PVC drain going out to deck). the back compartment will be for dry (somewhat dry anyway) storage.


I have to tackle this problem before I put the casting deck in though.


I have removed all the wood, cleaned, and added a few layers of 1700 to the bow eye area. I'm thinking about laying up about 8 layers of glass in this area (going out about 8" on each side) and putting in a big aluminum backing plate, along with the backing plate that came with the new 1/2" bow eye. I would not use any coring if I went this route. I think this would be plenty strong. Just need to develop a nice flat spot for the backing plates to rest.

[Capt. Bob]

 

[dmont]

progress..
The casting deck is in and the bracing along the hull sides are in.



Now to flip her over... I used the old two tractor method.







next steps will be to make repairs to the bottom, then work on getting old paint off and new paint on.

[Ulysses485]

Nice work!! I am jealous of your ability to flip so conveniently. That's gonna make sanding so much easier! 

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Nice work!! I am jealous of your ability to flip so conveniently. That's gonna make sanding so much easier!

Same here! I'm staring at the old bottom paint on mine trying to figure out the best way to tackle it.

[dmont]

progress..
Got the boat painted. Went with the rustoleum topside paint, 3 coats. used cheap 9" 3/8" nap rollers and just layed it down thin and didn't over work it. turned out pretty good other than a few bugs getting in it. I went with a hard bottom paint, said to heck with getting all the old bottom paint off. I did get most of the old bottom paint off but just didn't have time to take it all off properly. We are having another baby in late november, so I am trying to get it done. Also didnt do a great job fairing, but maybe one day I will get the hull fair.







Now I am starting work on a console. Using a combination of coosa and honeycomb. I am trying to overlap the coosa over the open ends of the honeycomb as much as possible, and so I can put a nice rounded edge on the coosa. Console is 26x26x48 tall.



next up is to finish glassing console, sand the interior of the boat, glass in console, paint interior, and rig...

[RickK]

Very nice progress 

[dmont]

Console is in. the console has 10oz tape in all the inside and outside corners, then chop strand over all of it. attached it to the deck with 1708 tape on the inside and outside.
I put blocks made of PVC board in certain spots for a cooler hold down, battery hold down, and the seat behind the console. These will hold screws a lot better than the honeycomb deck.






planning on painting the interior and putting down non skid later this week. getting there...

[dmont]

Big steps complete.
Interior painted, wow what a difference.





Jackplate and motor mounted, temporarily hooked up controls and portable tank and she fired right up. The motor has been sitting over a year so I was pretty happy about that.



I just ordered steering, battery cables, and a few other parts to get her on the water. Not going to completely outfit the boat with electronics and trolling motor just yet.
Should be able to launch the boat in a week or so!