cracked stringer

[John Jones]

1-Bunch of extra weight.

2-I have read that over time, the water/foam mix creates an acid or something that will attach fiberglass.  Research hull blisters on the internet.  The process is the same if I remember right.

[russell1]

is there any easy way to remove it,without destroy the stringers

[JimCt]

Cut open the top of the stringers, dig the wet foam out, re-foam and re-glass the stringer tops.

[russell1]

I was hopeing that wasnt the answer,I'm just learning to fiberglass I dont want to bite off more than I can chew.Would it be easier to cut sections off the top?If I was to do it that way when pouring the new foam Im sure it would find it's way through,then what do I cut the foam level with the top then mat it over?

[JimCt]

In picture form, here's what I did...

Cut open tops of stringers and removed the wet foam:



Poured new foam in, cut it level to the top of the stringer and glassed the top of the stringer closed.

[russell1]

thanks for the pics.

[warthog5]

then what do I cut the foam level with the top then mat it over?

I'm not picking on you here Russel, but the use of just mat seem's to be what a LOT of first timer's use.

Do some studying on diffrent type's of glass. Biaxel has SO MUCH more strength.

There was a local guy that been talking to me. He used all mat to enclose a notched transom.

[russell1]

thats why I'm using this forum to find out what not to do and what to do right.what is the best method to seal up stringers,I'm going to cut them in certain spots to remove the foam,then repair those spots,then add wood to the tops and secure them to the stringers for my floor to sit on,Like I said I never even touched fiberglass before,I just learned what It took to make it as far as material.right know I have polyester resin and some roven material and hardener of course and the tools.Its like going to war with a gun I dont know how to use,but I will learn with some tips for the right materials and methods

[russell1]

could I sister up some 1/2 ply to the sides of it for extra support then glass screw them to it,right know I used some spray foam to get it back up to height,then I dug out from under it to secure under the edges but I used poly resin and cloth to secure it to the hull again,its pretty solid ,I used some epoxy on the 2 cracks.now Im going to cut into the tops pull the foam out fiberglass the inside to the hull and fill with new foam.then cover the tops with wood and glass to meet the new floor.so I was just wondering if adding the wood to the sides of the cracked stringer would help or is there enough going on to it to solve the problem from happening again

[russell1]

what is 5200?

[RickK]

Marine adhesive/sealant.  Good stuff.

[Shine]

At a minimum: Use epoxy and Biaxial tape to secure it back to the hull.  I would go ahead and go the entire length if possible.  Try posting some picture and we can be of more help.

Joel

[warthog5]

Need Pix's.

[russell1]

I dont have pictures of it,it was cracked in 2 spots,in the middle where the wood was for supporting the cooler seat and a foot before the casting deck right where it drops off.so it was probaly within 5 feet of each other.so far I used spray foam just to raise the stringer to height it was alittle under on the one side,which worked out great,then I went and got west system epoxy resin and all the goodies I got extra heavy roven mat cut strips to fit under and over and all along.sanded it before I put it on, I also used some epoxy gum on the cracks days before glassing it.I was standing on it today before I glassed it and It was alot stronger.It also took care of my soft spot in the hull.I hope that does it.It took another hundred

[russell1]

ok I saw it tonight at west marine about 20.00 a tube.How many tubes did it take?what do you think about liquid nail?