22 ff rebuild

[Fishhead]

Thanks Rick  those side holes were the deck drains they are just cut off in the pic.



I’m going to reuse the original rear fascade filling in the hole from the engine. Also filling in the area from IO breather vent holes that look like cup holders. The rear deck will tab up 90 degree maybe 5 inch high and under lap the fascade. 

[Fishhead]

Grinding around the drain plug area had a lot of voids and bad lamination and after the dust settled this is what I have. The crack on the outside traversed across the top of the drain hole. Looks like this area was added, you can see the plugged screw holes along the bottom.







Moving forward looks like that area should be cut out , and stay with original plan of filling hole inside on melamine on outer skin. Any other ideas thanks

[RickK]

That is weird looking. Not sure how that was even needed???   I agree with cutting it out - that area doesn't even look attached on the inside.
I would grind/taper the area around the outdrive hole gradually from about 3" away from the hole down to a sharp edge at the hole.  That will help when you start filling the hole - looking at the thickness of the transom it looks like it will take about 3 (or 4) layers of increasingly sized 1708 patches to regain the thickness. Then when you lay the 3 layers of 1708 across the inside of the entire transom, it'll be nice and stout.

[Fishhead]

Thanks Rick, I can’t figure out what was going on there. I knew I was getting thin grinding but I couldn’t find good glass  to stop at. 

[Fishhead]

Well after a crappy last month of heat waves  , smoke and ash from fires, then losing my dad  I finally got on the boat job. Good way to keep busy got to many projects going. Got the hole covered up, took 6 layers of 1708



layed out another 4 layers to cover transom , surprising how much it stiffened the transom up.hope to get core done soon

[RickK]

Looks like some nice clean work 
Sorry to hear about your Dad. 

[Fishhead]

Thanks Rick, Question, the bracket on the boats a D&D. Do you guys that have brackets that are slipped have anodes on them or rely on engine anodes for protection. Thanks

[mshugg]

Yes, you definitely want a zink on an aluminum bracket.  My Armstrong bracket came with one instaled.

[Capt. Bob]

On my B-Bracket platform, the zinc was mounted outside and underneath the flotation chamber.

[Fishhead]

Thanks guys, I will install a anode its cheap insurance. Changed my mind again bought a couple sheets of 3/4" coosa,  did the one sheet at a time thing working by myself.



poly and csm  set the second sheet and back to 3 layers of 1708 and epoxy covered it up. Glad to be moving on



Time to get the foam out of stringers, wet at bottom put a couple extra hole saw holes broke it up pushed it out the back hope to make progress this week

[RickK]

Looks good. The stringers seem to be in good shape.

[Fishhead]

rest of foam cleaned, the areas I punched new holes in stringer tops had very empty foam voids. Think they foamed this one on a Friday afternoon before a three day weekend 

[RickK]

It may be too late already but don't forget the pipe I mentioned in #14.
I'm not sure how you'll accomplish the same results now.

[Fishhead]

As much digging as I did getting the old engine tub out I figured needed to put back some glass back so it got 3 layers of 1708. Drain pipe through stringer goes in tomarrow been waiting for weeks for foam. Started cutting off lip on transom inner skin and filling in cutout






I have some 1/2 inch divynacell I would like to use as core to back the whole inner skin. is thickened epoxy traweled on foam and set on inner skin with a board on top and weight best way to do it? any other ideas? The 2 layers of 1708 that filled the hole was epoxy Thanks

[RickK]

That'll work. Just like I backed my casting deck lid and also the backing on the front portion of my cap.