'69 19-1 complete rebuild

[mshugg]

One trick for working with epoxy in cooler temps is to store it in a heated place before laminating.  This will become more important when it’s time to wet out glass.  You’ll want your resin thin for that,  similarly, in the summer when it’s hot, I would put my hardner in a refrigerator to slow cure time.  .

[Enginerd]

One trick for working with epoxy in cooler temps is to store it in a heated place before laminating.  This will become more important when it’s time to wet out glass.  You’ll want your resin thin for that,  similarly, in the summer when it’s hot, I would put my hardner in a refrigerator to slow cure time.  .

I did that today, mush easier to work with.


Had a great day today. My old man came over and helped me bond in the transom.  Before bonding, we laid out and cut the crown in the transom. We used close to 3 quarts of thickened epoxy, which was just enough. I didn't have enough cabosil to do the filets around the perimeter, i'll get to that this week.



I also started working on knees to support the cap i will build. Four of the knees will be full length, extending all the way down to the chine, so have to be done before foaming the stringers. I will also cut holes in the knees for under gunwhale rod storage.





Trying to decide if I should double these up to 1.5in thick.

[RickK]

Looking at your transom, did you not lay in 3 layers of cloth to beef up the original transom prior to gluing in the transom core? Maybe you didn't post pix of that? I see that you clamped a sheet of wood across the aft of the skin, so maybe I missed the lam?
EDIT: I am only bringing this up is because when the motor pushes on the back of the boat, the back of the boat should be part of the entire boat and tying in the transom to the hullsides and bottom is part of making it all one. I am not sure how you plan to fill the notch from the outside, lots of work.
I figure you'll do the tie in when you lam 3 layers of 1708 with 4", 8", 12" overlap on hull sides and bottom.
Now is the time to add a PVC pipe (maybe a little late):
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

[Enginerd]

The cut out in the hull will be filled from the outside. Bonding the transom in first gives a flat plane to work on, and layers can be wrapped from the outside skin, over the top, and down the inside face. The cutout area will have six layers of 1708, moving progressively out onto the transom skin, and wrapping around the sides of the transom into the hull side. Inside will have three layers across the face and additional layers of tabbing. There’s more than one way to skin a cat.

[RickK]

You would have saved yourself a lot of fairing work had you done it from the inside and clamped a piece of melamine across the back and used that as your flat beginning. I'm not trying to be a Monday morning quarterback, just trying to save you effort, especially when you go around to the outside sides of the hull. Are you laminating the entire outside of the transom or just from the notch upward?
I think you'll find that 1708 does not like corners of any kind and you'll end up with air gaps across the top and anywhere you don't have a rounded fillet/edge and sometimes that doesn't even help. Also, if you plan the laminations properly on the inside of the transom, the tabbing is built in already (4,8,12 overlaps).  Don't forget the rounded fillets around the sides and bottom edge of the transom core.

[Enginerd]

I understand your point Rick. I didn't feel the melamine was worth the effort. I will wind up with ~6 layers of glass in the cutout area, opposed to 3 suggested to be lam'd against the melamine. I have some cracks and plenty of holes to fill on the outer skin, so i'll be fairing that whole face either way. I will likely wind up covering the entire outside skin with a layer of glass.

I'm going to radius the edges if the ply. When laminating, I will wrap it in PE sheet and clamp it in place to form the glass to the radii.

I'm toying with the idea of sleeving holes in the transom (motor mounting, drain plug, scuppers) with glass/epoxy tubes. https://www.mcmaster.com/6394a23

Similar to the  fill and drill method but would use less epoxy. Also, epoxy bond to PVC isn't remarkable. Man, it would be a shame if your drain tube delaminated.

[RickK]

After scruffing up the PVC with sandpaper, the epoxy bond will be fine. I wish I would have thought of the PVC pipe trick before I did my transom.  Now I have water pooling a foot in front of the transom since I shifted the low point way out front by all the layers I added as I rebuilt the transom.
Mcmaster sure got a lot of my money during my rebuild.

[dirtwheelsfl]

I like the shape of the knees , super strong going all the way to chine too. Id double them to 1.5", theyll be less likely to show on the outside of the hull, and theyll be easier to glass. Its hard to tell from pics, but make sure they follow the same crown youve got on the transom so the new cap will sit nice n fair...

[Enginerd]

Been chipping away at the boat. Transom is glassed in.



Knees with built in rod holders have been formed and glassed in. i Left excess material on the top edge to fair the cap angle later.




I've been spending money too. Maybe not the wisest given all the insanity right now but if I die from corona virus at least I'll have pile of cool boat parts as my legacy. I got a motor! '06 mercury 115 four stroke EFI.



Also on order are a manual jack plate, foam for stringers, rigging tube, and some other odds and ends. I've also been working on limber drain tubes through the stringers, and building forms for pouring foam to raise the decks. Pictures coming soon.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Looking good. It's nice to have a place inside to do it all. It seemed like half my time was always spent cleaning out leaves.

And spend it up! You can't take it with you

[RickK]

Progress looks good.
How do you plan on keeping the rods in the holders you've made?  I had the original rod holders like those and the first wave I hit, the top of the pole would be bouncing around on the deck - drove me nuts. On my rebuild I replaced the under gunnel rod holders with ones that have foam inserts that you squeeze the rod into. Really liked the result when I took the boat out.

[Enginerd]

thanks guys.

I'll add some rubber chord retaining straps to help hold the rods in. I made these specifically for fly rods, which will be stowed with the reel forward, ahead of the forward knee. This should keep them from sliding back. Also that's why I made the slots in the rear knee somewhat small.

[Enginerd]

Despite the radio silence, I've been busy. Since I last posted, it's been all about getting the stringers done. This was a process and I'm glad it's nearly all done.

To raise the floor 2.5 inches, I built forms from hardboard. The smooth side of the hardboard was coated with release wax. I painstaking cut, fit, and leveled the forms to set the level of the floor, to put the crown into the floor.


I also installed my spray rails prior to foaming. I don't have any pictures, but they were through bolted with 316L stainless m6 flat heads countersunk into the outside of the rail, with a fender washer and double locknuts inside. They were bedded in 5200 as well. They are now a part of the boat.


My original plan to have a foam insulation contractor spray foam the boat fell through due to corona, so I ordered up a bunch of 4pcf density PU foam from US Composites. I wound up using ~35cf. I orignally ordered 20, so there was some down time when I ran out and had to re-order. The foam was poured to be proud of the top edge of my forms. Then it was trimmed and planed to meet that top edge. It was a ton of work but they came out pretty good, very happy with the level-ness of the stringer tops. This foam has a 70psi compressive strength, pretty rigid stuff. Once shaped, they were glassed over with 1708. Very rigid. On to the pictures.

[umecheme]

I'm pumped to see some progress on 19-1 rebuilds.  Seems like all the rebuild threads on these have fallen off 1/2 way through.  I think there's 3 of us in the Northeast with 19-1's in progress.  Can't wait to see the first one of these go in the water (won't be mine)!

[RickK]

Nice clean work ENG!!