Old fuel gauge was bad in my refurbed '02 165 Osprey so I'll post my effort here to help the next soul who goes here.
Disclosure!! Don't be a statistic when working with an open fuel tank. There is hardly anything you can work on that will be more dangerous. Among a dozen other precautions: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, use a fan to dissipate concentrations of gas vapors, use an LED drop lite bulb to avoid a broken filament spark, keep a damp rag in the tank sender opening, etc.....
Found the Moeller gauge/sender kit 035726-10 was my best option on Amazon for about $50. The gauge fit the existing hole in the dash but the backing bracket was too short to catch the bolts on back so I simply trimmed the plastic down w my Dremel until it was in good (pic). Removing the storage box and drink holder from the port side of the console made access fairly easy.
The tank sender was a crunch to get to for my old frame but if a person was ambitious enough he could just remove the console base screws and tilt the whole console over to starboard a bit for simple access to the deck cover. I found the tank sender mount hole surprisingly small (pic) and was lucky enough to retrieve all the parts for the original sender to use as a template for the new one.
With the new/old senders on the bench side-by-side (pic) I first tested the new one and then cut/fit/bent the float and arm to match the travel/length/depth of the original. I had completely emptied the tank and added exactly 11gal to my 20gal capacity tank so I knew where the gauge should be when I tested it for accuracy.
On a side note, in a rare stroke of enlightenment I set up a venturi siphon using my shop compressor and a siphon hose to totally empty the tank. It was completely safe and really did a great job completely and safely emptying rotten fuel/debris/water or anything in there. If there's any interest I'll post the setup in a separate thread.
Lastly, if you get weird gauge accuracy just replace, not one but, BOTH the ground and sender wires (along with any/all connectors) all the way from the sender back to the gauge. A fuel gauge uses resistance to measure float changes and any corrosion in the wiring/fittings WILL mess with the wiring resistance causing a mental melt down in the DIYer. Luckily it was only about 6' back to my gauge so it was super simple.
Here's a few pics and I hope that helps somebody else down the line.
Fair winds, Mike
