Brad's '84 175 redeck

[RickK]

Can you post a pic a little farther away so I can see where the damage is pertaining to transom?

[BradC]

PO did say it was fixed at some stage

[BradC]

[RickK]

Ok, that is the joint where the liner comes up and over the transom. It's pretty common to see this. Does this mean it's not an issue? It depends on if water got in there in mass. If your transom is sound, you can grind this joint down to clean glass and use resin with some chopped glass to make a thick peanut butter thickness bondo to fill it in.
If the transom is not sound, then you have to go deeper and at least replace the core, which will involve popping this liner portion anyway.

[BradC]

Thx Rick ... figure I’m doing the deck so might as well do it properly and redo the transom  .... looking into Baltek Airex PXc board (not too many options up here in the NE)

[BradC]

Sooooo … Life, Covid and inertia all contributed to a hiatus in this project … but, back up and running. Transom was mush when prodded so added to the project scope. Had to toss 15gallons of polyester which was soul destroying, but after 4 years in an unheated shed, its integrity would be suspect.

A few pics to visualize the target:

1. Current
2. Nidacore as bottom layer
3. Coosa layer on top
4. Position of fuel tank fittings hatch and bilge hatch

[BradC]

Pics cont …

5. With center console positioned as per original placement
6. Leaning post with 6” removed from center, tried to be clever with overthought join shapes
7. With leaning post positioned
8. Side view

[BradC]

Plan for deck is to laminate Nidacore with Coosa on top. 1708 with Epoxy on the underside, Nidacore joined to Coosa with Epoxy only, 3 layers of 1708 on top of Coosa with Polyester, Gelcoat over that. Nidacore will be mechanically fastened to original deck rim as well as epoxy … Coosa will be Epoxied to Nida … Center Console, leaning post and fastenings for future T-Top will be through both layers with robust backing plates.

By lucky happenstance (I was going to engineer anyway), the primary join for the Coosa pieces runs almost perfectly down the middle of the starboard stringer and the Center Console’s front/back sole as well.

As the stringer has to be built up an inch or 2, I’m considering running Coosa “backing” pieces between the stringers for where the leaning post’s feet attach to the deck, where I’ll stand whilst steering, as well as repurposed battery (x2) compartment (seat in front of console)

Transom will be 2 laminations of 3/4” Coosa with 1 layer of 1708 (Epoxy) in between and 2 layers of woven (Epoxy) on outer side.

Center console has 6” removed down the center and will be reattached with 1708 (Polyester) and reinforcing with Coosa.

Intent is a fishing machine for an aging, portly, solo fisherman … it’s going to be fugly but functional.

Thoughts, opinions, hints and tips will all be most welcome.

Cheers
Brad

[RickK]

My thoughts:
Transom: 1708 has CSM on one side and nothing on the other (besides weave). Epoxy doesn't melt the binders of the CSM, poly does. I would use 1 layer of 1.5oz CSM and poly on the inside of each layer of coosa and let it kick. To join the 2 pieces of Coosa together I would use thickened poly and a 1/4" notched trowel to spread the thickened poly between the coosa and then weight it down for a day or more. I notice you're planning poly on the exposed side of everything so use poly and 1.5oz CSM on both sides of transom coring. Use thickened poly to trowel on between the transom glass and the coring, it'll be plenty strong.
Deck: Poly doesn't bind with the weave as well as epoxy does but it will bind to the CSM on the one side of the 1708. If you start the 1708 csm down, then add a layer of CSM to the top as a finishing layer.