She's finally home!! Rickk's 230

[John Jones]

Yup.  It just says "lash" the chain to the shank eye.

[RickK]

I'm going through the 230 to check everything so I'm not surprised by anything - have lots of stuff to go through....
Yesterday:
Rebuilt the swim platform/ladder with starboard - came out pretty nice - still not as sturdy, even with 5/8" (same thickness as the teak, which was all nasty), but it is low maintenance.
Cut a small piece of 1/8" aluminum, drilled a 1/2" hole and a 5/8" hole,  filed them smooth in every way, unrolled the new anchor line in the street, tied the new anchor line's bitter end to the bigger hole (good idea JJ) and was ready to attach to the front eye bolt inside the anchor line locker. I then decided to clean out the locker as best I could since this is not something you'll think about - ever!! - found a few more wasp nests (dead), vacuumed it out and then washed it out.  At that point, I found out that the locker did not drain anywhere   I called/talked with Dave to find out if his was the same and he said that it should drain somewhere - his boat has a different locker arrangement though.   He came over and we pondered on it for a bit and then he drilled a 3/8" hole from the storage beneath it in the cabin, up through into the locker area - a bit scary, checking that we weren't drilling through the hull.  Dave did the job superbly, the water started to flow into the bilge as it should.  Can't figure out why this was left that way - anchor line would be moldy.
I then cut the hardware/chain from the old anchor, attached new hardware to the chain, attached the chain to the new anchor line/new anchor, loaded the anchor line into the locker and secured the anchor on the pulpit.  I need to get some 1/4" nylon to add as a secondary tie off of the anchor to a cleat so I don't have any surprises. Anyway, a long day and I needed to go get the lift assist cylinders for the cabin door/hatch that I had ordered (and were in) before the place closed.
Today:
I started off with installing the Garmin GPS/Chartplotter "Second station" stuff I had ordered so I could move that device from one boat to the other.  This included the transducer and the GPS antenna and then pulling those cables up to the helm and then working them, and the power cables, into the dash.  I spent a lot of time in the cabin today and it was brutally hot - needed a fan and will put that (or 2) on "the list".  
I buffed out the dash area, by hand, before I installed the cables and mounting bracket on the dash, routed the cables up through the dash and then tested it - perfect.
I installed new lift assist cylinders for the cabin door/hatch  - an easy job outside of the cabin    - I need to cut in a hatch into the top of the cabin ceiling for more airflow.
I finished the early afternoon up by troubleshooting the NAV lights.  It has a on-off-on switch for the nav/anchor light and I flipped the switch to "Nav" and the aft light came on - good thing.  I went to the front and the red/green light was not lit - not good.  I traced the wires through the pulpit and to the electrical "panel" area and found 2 wire ends with nothing attached When I flipped the switch to Anchor, the rear light did not come on.
The switch that controlled the lights ended up being a SPDT with LED connections - not sure how the previous owner intended to be legal.  I guess I need to buy a new switch - a DPDT so I can switch to NAV and then Anchor only.
Ended the day watching the BUCs get beat - as usual

[pete]

sounds like you will be ready to go this summer!make sure that you coat the inside of the drain hole with some kind of sealer or epoxy to avoid any moisture damage.how are you securing your anchor to the pulpit?I use one of those hold down clips from boatersworld and a big stainless clip for a backup.

[RickK]

sounds like you will be ready to go this summer!

This summer....hell, I'll be ready this weekend Oh wait, I have to go to Quebec for business on Sunday for the week.  Maybe next weekend after I thaw out.

make sure that you coat the inside of the drain hole with some kind of sealer or epoxy to avoid any moisture damage.

The hole was drilled through what we could figure was a prop for the liner to rest on when they lowered it in.  I doubt I''ll be able to get something in there - tough enough to see in there let alone get your head AND your arms in at once.  Have to think about it.

how are you securing your anchor to the pulpit?I use one of those hold down clips from boatersworld and a big stainless clip for a backup.

I was going to tie a 1/4" piece of nylon line to the last link and then tie that to a cleat at the front.  It doesn't sit in the pulpit very well, definitely not square in it, anyway. I haven't done anything yet, got a link to what you're talking about?
Thx.

[John Jones]

I was going to tie a 1/4" piece of nylon line to the last link and then tie that to a cleat at the front. It doesn't sit in the pulpit very well, definitely not square in it, anyway. I haven't done anything yet, got a link to what you're talking about?

I'll try to make a pic of what I did and post it tomorrow.  I already had an "incident"     with the anchor dropping at about 20kts.  I was not going to have that happen again.

[pete]

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... ats-chocks
this is what I use,plus a clip as a backup,I had an accidental dropping,now I am sure to use the tensioner and a big d clip that goes through the chain to the bow cleat


http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157 ... ats-chocks

this would work too

[RickK]

The second one looks good for sure, as long as it isn't a PITA to release. One problem I have is the anchor not fitting snug in the pulpit - if I keep the shank low, the anchor can flop right and left which I think will beat up the pulpit over time (already has some dings in it from an earlier anchor).  I think I need to find a rubber/nylon edge cover to put on the bottom of the pulpit to protect it and I also need to find out a way to get the anchor up snug/flat.
Here is a pic of JJ's setup that he posted earlier.  See how his shank comes up high instead of staying low on the pulpit tray.  See the flukes, how they're parallel with the bottom of the pulpit? JJ it looks like you have something sticking down by the roller to stabilize the flukes - what is that? Maybe part of the roller plates? I see he also uses a tensioner.  I'll have to get some pix if I get home before dark or maybe this Sat., so you guys see what I'm working with.  I think I have a different setup of the pulpit than JJ.  My NAV light is on the front of my pulpit, JJ I don't see your NAV light in the pic.

[RickK]

I already had an "incident"     with the anchor dropping at about 20kts.  I was not going to have that happen again.

I had an incident in the 170 once when the anchor dropped out of my hand and landed on my foot    
My luck, my anchor would drop while trailering
Anyway, I think this is a good topic to cover as pulpits are something new to me. Thanks for the help guys.

[John Jones]

Those ears sticking down kinda sorta stabilize the flukes if the anchor is positioned just right.  They are part of the roller bracket.  They were already on the boat when I got it.

The tensioner was already on the boat too.  I have had no problem with it if I am the one who secures it.  I had the incident when someone else secured the anchor and we took off for another spot.  It is really sensitive to how much slack one leaves in the chain.  If it's loose, the anchor flops around but with no problems.  If one secures it too tight, the tensioner comes unlatched then with just the right bounce and there she goes   :cry:   Look just to the rear of that tensioner kind of inline with the windlass and you will see the device I made to truly secure it.  It's cheap, easy, and works well, even for my dummy fishing buddies.

My current front nav light is a short plug-in pole light.  The bulge beneath the very front of the pulpit is to cover the recessed socket for the pole light.  That is what makes the shank stand at the high angle.  I would like to change to the "shark eye" type nav lights someday but I have other stuff higher on the priority list.

[JimCt]

Was the pulpit & roller arrangement designed to fit a Danforth?

[John Jones]

I assume so.  It all fits pretty well and pulls up okay.  The only issue is the angle of the shank caused by the recessed light socket.  The recessed light socket cover underneath the front is an add-on.  Home made by the previous owner from the looks of it.  It would lay flat if not for that.  The angle doesn't bother me.

[JimCt]

Long as it works....

Can you drop & pull the hook from the helm or do you have to go forward?

[John Jones]

I have to go forward.  I have been on lots of boats with windlasses including some fancy stuff like a Grady-White 330 Express with $1600 windlasses.  NONE of them are a helm only operation all the time.  Ropes twist, chains hang in the gypsy, etc.  I went with cheap and reliable using the capstain type.  Seldom am I alone anyway.






Rick.  I went to our friends at Marine Surplus and bought a stainless "ladder gudgeon" for $5.




I used that and a SS quick release pin as a safety.





Here is the existing tensioner but they are a PITA.


Top view of the pulpit.


Bottom view of the pulpit.

[pete]

I like that ladder part as a backup for the tensioner.what kind of pin is that in there?

[John Jones]

It's a "quick release pin".  They can be found at some hardware stores, Tractor Supply Co. and other farm stores, or online at http://www.mcmaster.com.


I made a leash for it with 120# plastic coated fishing leader wire.