She's finally home!! Rickk's 230

[RickK]

Getting the bottom paint off without harming the gelcoat would probably be best done with Peel-Away.

I'm having a heck of a time finding a local source for this stuff.  I've found it on-line for $60/gal plus shipping but nothing local so far.  I sent an email to the mfr, we'll see what they come back with, if anything.

[JimCt]

Peel-Away is expensive stuff.  Sometimes Home Depot carries it.

[RickK]

Peel-Away is expensive stuff.  Sometimes Home Depot carries it.

Here is the response I got from them:
"Rick
 
West Marine is going to stock our product in January under their own name, but for now you can get our PEEL AWAY 7 product at Sherwin Williams Paint Stores (same as the Marine Safety Strip).  Also it is available online at www.paintremoval.com
 
Thanks"

[RickK]

This morning I installed the Icom 302 VHF in the cabin and the new 5ft all-around light on the stern. I then installed the anchor lock I found yesterday.  Based on the length of the anchor shank and how I could through-bolt it through the pulpit, I had to modify the lock a little.
I decided to lock it through the shackle hole, so I had to cut and grind a notch in the front of it.


The lock is a pin that has a spring on one end and a roller pin sticking through it on the other.
Sorry for the bluriness, the wind was blowing me around.
EDIT: I replaced the blurry pic.




The way the anchor lays on the pulpit roller, on the hinge of the anchor, means there is little forward weight/pulling.  The lock actually holds the shank "down" and that locks the whole thing in place.  Should work out fine. (I hope)


Steve finished the biminis, screens and vinyl and then booted them up.  Next week is the cover.

[JimCt]

Lock looks good.  Minor mods. are always part of the game.  One thing you may want to do is mouse the shackle pin with some stainless wire.  Pins can come loose through the turning action of the shackle on the hook

[RickK]

Lock looks good.  Minor mods. are always part of the game.  One thing you may want to do is mouse the shackle pin with some stainless wire.  Pins can come loose through the turning action of the shackle on the hook

This is under spring tension - you push the pin through the hole and turn 180 degrees, then let go.  Shackle, chain and rode are loose, no tension at all.

[JimCt]

Clarification:  The threaded pin that secures the shackle to the anchor:

[RickK]

Ohhhh, THAT pin  - yup, need to do that.  If I have some in the shop, I'll do it tomorrow. Thanks buddy.

[RickK]

Today I changed the lower unit oil, and had a weird experience.  I bought the oil change kit a while back at a Yamaha dealer and I'd told them the size and they told me the qt kit would be fine.  The kit was a Johnson/Evinrude kit and they told me it would be fine (parts people). I drained the oil and then tried to screw the end of the pump into the bottom hole and it wouldn't fit  - I called a closer service center and he told me I needed a metric adapter.  Ok, I go down there and buy the adapter, I tell the guy the size of the motor and he gave me the "quick instruction set" to make sure I knew how to change the oil.  He mentioned in the "instructions" to pump in the Qt of oil.  While I'm there I buy a screw-on fuel water separator/filter too.
I get back home, put the adapter on the pump and start filling her up.  The oil smelled well used, not that I'd call it burned, but it was ready to change, for sure.  Very dark but no metal that I could see .
Well, I ran out of oil and she wasn't full yet :x .
Ok, I'll change the fuel separator before I head back to get more oil.  I try to unscrew the filter and end up ripping the separator off the wall .  I cut the fuel lines off, put the separator in a vise and was able to unscrew the filter.  I poured the contents of the filter into a bucket to check it out and there was a little rust and just a little water - not too bad.  The inside top of the separator was rusty, so I figure it had water at one time or just over time.  I decide to replace the whole thing and off I go back to the service center.  When I get there I tell the guy about running out of oil, at one Qt and he said "of course, you have the big motor"  
Anyway, I changed those two items and that's one more than I had on my list, OFF my list.

Jim, I didn't get a chance to look for wire yet but if it was your pin, how would you "mouse" the pin.  Wrap it around the inside of the shackle?

[JimCt]

From Wikipedia:

Mousing

For safety, it is common to mouse a threaded shackle that is going to be left done up for some time in anything like a critical application. This is done by passing a couple of turns of mousing wire through the hole provided for this purpose in the unthreaded end of the pin and around the body of the shackle's hoop.

Alternatively, some threaded shackles are provided with a hole through the threaded end of the pin beyond where it emerges from the threaded hole. A cotter pin or a couple of loops of mousing wire through this hole serves the same purpose and secures the shackle in a closed position.

Simple proceedure but a good one for critical hardware that must not fail.

[John Jones]

I have been through the lower unit fitting crap.  I could not find one to fit the 60 Yammie.  I made one by cutting off a 5/16" (I think) all-thread then drilling the center of it out and slipping that inside the pump tubing.

Pull your prop and check for fishing line and grease the propshaft well with water proof grease.

I paint the top of the spin on fuel filters with grease.  You will find that the damn cannister rusts out before the filter gets clogged.  Aluminum housing and steel filter cannister mixed with saltwater equal crap.  Racor makes a stainless housing but I cannot afford it.

A piece of stainless wire or a tiny zip tie works fine on the anchor clevis.

On your anchor lock, put a leash on that pin or someday it will roll overboard.  I have some 120# plastic coated stranded wire leader and some crimps if you need it.  That's what I used on mine.

[RickK]

Thanks Jim

I have been through the lower unit fitting crap.  I could not find one to fit the 60 Yammie.  I made one by cutting off a 5/16" (I think) all-thread then drilling the center of it out and slipping that inside the pump tubing.

That sounds like it was a real pain.

Pull your prop and check for fishing line and grease the propshaft well with water proof grease.

I'll try to do that today along with the mousing.

I paint the top of the spin on fuel filters with grease.  You will find that the damn cannister rusts out before the filter gets clogged.  Aluminum housing and steel filter cannister mixed with saltwater equal crap.  Racor makes a stainless housing but I cannot afford it.

I forgot to mention that the one I bought is stainless - about $30 more than the aluminum one.  Not too bad. I wiped a liberal coat of grease on the rubber seal and did the "hand tight plus a 1/4 turn" tightening on it.  I think the other hadn't been off in a few years. Won't have the same problem again. The guy told me that they should be replaced yearly - he did say that if all you get out of it is water on your yearly check, use it some more.  I also bought 2 extra filters for stash.  When I was installing the Lowrance LMF-200 fuel sensor/sending unit, they recommend carrying an extra 3/8" coupler and and extra filter, so I'm covered in case I need to remove this for any problem.
That reminds me, Miquel, did you get your sensor installed yet?  Does it work ok?  I haven't had the boat out yet and don't get any reading on the hose.  Maybe I haven't identified the sensor as a "device" yet on the network?

On your anchor lock, put a leash on that pin or someday it will roll overboard.  I have some 120# plastic coated stranded wire leader and some crimps if you need it.  That's what I used on mine.

The lock pin doesn't come all the way out.  The roll pin can't come out the round hole on the other side.

[RickK]

Peel-Away is expensive stuff.  Sometimes Home Depot carries it.

Here is the response I got from them:
"Rick
 
West Marine is going to stock our product in January under their own name, but for now you can get our PEEL AWAY 7 product at Sherwin Williams Paint Stores (same as the Marine Safety Strip).  Also it is available online at www.paintremoval.com
 
Thanks"

I went down to the Sherwin-Williams yesterday on the same outing that I got the oil and filter.  Took the guy a few minutes to find it and then I saw why - marked $86/gal        It had a few years worth of dust on the top too and at that price, it wasn't going to move fast. He discounted it 15% to me but still was $73 with tax. He also had one gal that the plastic "lock" around the rim had been torn off - maybe I can get that real cheap if this works ok.  Being that the paint on my boat is only one coat and "that" has been worn down, maybe I can use just a little and the gal will go far.  I'll let you know.

[RickK]

Ok, I pulled the prop, no fishing line, just a bunch of hardened grease.  Took a wire brush to it where it needed it to clean all the old stuff off,  greased her back up and re-assembled it. Check.
Had 4 lengths of bailing wire collected over the years, but no stainless.  I did the zip tie approach until I can get some wire.  I'm sure the ties will degrade from the sun over time.
Here is a new "clear" pic of the anchor lock - replaced the one in the earlier post too.


Brightened it a little:


Here is the mousing - so why do you think they call it "mousing"? (Not a quiz, just don't know)



Check.

[John Jones]

I started my Peel Away project Friday afternoon.  I was going to post about it but the forum was broken.  It's been on for about 36 hours now.  I will start taking it off today if the rain doesn't get too bad.  Yesterday after 24 hours I pulled a small piece of the paper away.  Most of the paint and stripper was still on the hull, not the paper.  The paint was soft all the way to the gelcoat but will still be a PITA to get off.  Maybe I can make the full post tonight.