Thin bottom?

[Guthrie Boatworks]

We are rebuilding a 196 1972. Removed deck,stringers, stern coring. The bottom seems very thin to me. We almost exclusively rebuild Privateers. I got in the boat and the bottom flexed a lot walking in it. Is this normal?

[RickK]

When I was rebuilding my 170 I noticed a little flex when I had everything gutted, but not too bad. I lam'd a layer of 1708 over the entire inside of the hull (including sides) before starting the rebuild.  That stiffened it up.

[Capt. Bob]

Here's an early layup schedule (170). Probably similar to what you're seeing.(third paragraph below).




 As Rick did with his, many of the rebuilds we've seen here have added an extra layer or two on the inside of the hull.

[Guthrie Boatworks]

Thanks Capt Bob, that explains things. Think I'll put another laminate or two in the hull, it has made it 47 years with busting so we will give her a little love now.While removing the cap today I observed that the gunnel cap was fastened to the hull flange with pop rivets. That's a new one for me, all I've ever seen were fastened with screws or bolts. Looks like to me this boat would benefit from spray rails, any thoughts?

[Capt. Bob]

I've seen pop rivets on an earlier model 170 too. Guess it was a Hialeah thing in those days.

Spray rails have come up before on the Forum but I can't recall if they have been installed. I'll do a search.

How about starting a thread on your group's rebuild? Pics are always appreciated.

Good luck.

[Guthrie Boatworks]

How do I upload pics?

[RickK]

If you want to post a pic when you talk about your boat, which you should, follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them, this is better for viewing.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy.

[GoneFission]

The earlier boats had a lot of variety in build quality.  Some had pretty thin hulls - others seemed to have another layer or two.  CCP hulls were generally heavily-bulit due to the expected offshore/rough water use.  Most of the "nice" rebuilds I've seen have an extra layer put in the hull bottom and up the sides as well.  The early 22-2 boats were thin in the hull sides.  An extra layer makes a pretty big difference on these boats, IMHO.   

[JCB196]

When I was rebuilding my 170 I noticed a little flex when I had everything gutted, but not too bad. I lam'd a layer of 1708 over the entire inside of the hull (including sides) before starting the rebuild.  That stiffened it up.

I am considering laminating the whole inside of the hull and stringers with 1708 structural glass on my 196. From what I've been told its the way to go to add durability to the hull, the downside to this is the planing surface under the foamed stringers will still be the original thickness and can cause a tear from the newly stiffened hull. I do intend to cut off the tops of the stringers and replace the foam and while I'm in there tab the stringers from the inside with matte tape and increase the thickness, rather gut stringers completely then 1708 the interior if the hull and make Coosa board stringers as recommended by a friend. Has any one done anything like this? My funds are limited so a full composite stringer rebuild is out of the question.   

[Ulysses485]

When I was rebuilding my 170 I noticed a little flex when I had everything gutted, but not too bad. I lam'd a layer of 1708 over the entire inside of the hull (including sides) before starting the rebuild.  That stiffened it up.

I am considering laminating the whole inside of the hull and stringers with 1708 structural glass on my 196. From what I've been told its the way to go to add durability to the hull, the downside to this is the planing surface under the foamed stringers will still be the original thickness and can cause a tear from the newly stiffened hull. I do intend to cut off the tops of the stringers and replace the foam and while I'm in there tab the stringers from the inside with matte tape and increase the thickness, rather gut stringers completely then 1708 the interior if the hull and make Coosa board stringers as recommended by a friend. Has any one done anything like this? My funds are limited so a full composite stringer rebuild is out of the question.   

JCB196,

You make a very valid point.

I believe adding a structural layer of glass is always a good idea if you are staring at a bare hull during a rebuild. We have become much more demanding of hulls these days (towers, live wells, big in deck fuel tanks, heavy 4 strokes etc.). Reusing stringers makes it tricky to accomplish this however starting with a tape on the inside bottom of the stringer and then tabbing each inside of the inside stringer leg would be very similar in structural support. Another thought is to flip it, add a layer of glass to the bottom and do most of the finish work while you are there.

I am learning this stuff myself so this is mostly regurgitated from another build (of the many that i have read through ) so don't take what i say for fact. There are however, many ways to do things with fiberglass. 

Hope that helps.

Ulysses

[RickK]

When I added the layer of glass to mine the hull was totally empty, no stringers or cap.

[TimothyFaller]

I am considering a rework of my 17ft 1971 aqua Sport. The bottom seems thin and I like the idea of redoing from the inside. The boat yard tells me it is not worth the money. But I love this boat!  However it does not seem to match the pictures in this chain of posts. I have two clear ports that I can open in the stern floor that makes it look like there is a stringer down the middle where they connect for drainage out a drain plug in the transom.   Does anyone have any pictures of this model open so I can see what I might be getting into?

[RickK]

Timothy, can you post a pic of what you're talking about?
If you want to post a pic when you talk about your boat, which you should, follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them - you are limited by file size. Uploading them into your "member gallery" is better for viewing.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.

Here is how my stringer system looked on my '71 170




You might have what is called a "convenience pack"

[TimothyFaller]

Thank you.  It looks similar and I will get some pictures.  I have done any demo and I keep it covered when not being used so when I open it tomorrow I will take some pictures. Mine does not have the rod spaces on the sides. But otherwise looks similar. Do these pictures show the form removed or is the form in the spaces that are still covered?

[TimothyFaller]

Pictures