1987 222 rebuild

[Joe65x]

yes those drain tubes are exactly what im talking about. I have seen some angled and others straight and they are always off the transom never flush up against it. is it just a rule of thumb to be so many inches from the transom? or are you supposed to fill with water and see where it puddles and go there?? i might be making a bigger deal out of it than it really lol

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Yeah I've never heard of any widely accepted rule. I think it's just wherever you think is best. Mine ended up there because I was trying to avoid the knees I made and needed enough room to get in there with the drill without rubbing up against the transom.

[Joe65x]

we glassed the coosa in and did what he called a hot coat with mat between the transom skin and the coosa. i believe its either 1 5/8 or 1 1/2 coosa. as you can see we went with the bolt through method instead of clamping it just to make sure we get all the air out. 

[Joe65x]

got it all glassed in. Just a little bit of air in the corner and one little spot towards the center. We went with three layers of 1708 to glass it in and tabbed i think 4 inches then 8 then 12

[Joe65x]

After we glassed the transom in i brought it home so i could work on it more frequently as he lives in parrish and i am in sarasota and with the transom in it should be sturdy enough to trailer.







The left stringer needed repair so i used some junk wood as a backing and glassed it back to the hull.







I ground the inside of the stringers and puttied the corners and glassed a 10 inch strip all the way down.

[Joe65x]

I was having some trouble with this one and some air but worst case ill grind it out and glass over.



extended the stringer back to the transom. i will also be putting the corners and adding glass to the insides of where i extended it.





For now i just have the knees tabbed in, later after they are trimmed i will wrap it in some 1708. My thoughts with the knees is that it will support the transom cap and i will also close it off and make it a hatch to access rigging and mount a water fuel separator, very similar to my buddies hanson.

[Joe65x]

Yeah I've never heard of any widely accepted rule. I think it's just wherever you think is best. Mine ended up there because I was trying to avoid the knees I made and needed enough room to get in there with the drill without rubbing up against the transom.

Okay sweet thanks. Then i guess after work ill grab some pvc for my rigging tubes and the drains and then i should be set to form the stringers up and foam it this weekend.

[theFunsmith]

My thoughts with the knees is that it will support the transom cap and i will also close it off and make it a hatch to access rigging and mount a water fuel separator

I think that is the way to go, and exactly what I did on mine.

[RickK]

Did you glass your extension cord in by mistake

Great progress though 

[Joe65x]

So last weekend i decided to just pull the liner and cap to reinforce and foam the entire stringer and not just up to the casting deck. I just wanted to do it right but at the same time i want to go fishing lol.

[Joe65x]

so today i put the rigging tubes in and started to foam the stringer in but ran out of foam. Had 2 gallon kit and was about half a gallon short id say, so i amazon primed a 1 gallon kit and will have it tomorrow. I should have pictures of foaming up tomorrow. I decided to do the rigging tubes like the other guy on here Hooked-On-Shenanigans, im sure others have done the same but his was the first i saw. i plan to use the liner and casting deck so the rigging tube that goes up front will be for lighting and speakers. I plan to have a access in the hatch on the casting deck so i can fish tape wires up the side where the original fuel line and vent line went. I also plan to put rigging tubes in the other stringer as well but with 45 degree instead of 90. I read it might be tough to put cables through a 90 so i will put 45's in just in case i go that route. I plan on a new suzuki or mercury with fly by wire controls though.

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

Joe, glad you got some inspiration from my post, i did the same configuration and think its a good plan. The rigging tube in the stringer is a great idea. If the stringer is ever compromised, it will have to be ripped out anyways. The rigging tubes ran on the inboard side of the stringers just seem like they would get in the way. (open a hatch and a 3" pipe is the first thing you see.) anyways, glad to see your project come to life. Will be great to see the final look. If you have any questions let me know. also, i know you want to get on the water already, but a 5 gal 2lb kit at us composites is around $250. I cant imagine what a 1 gal kit overnight was  ,but hey get r done.