1987 222 rebuild

[brad329]

So not a lot of progress the last few days but plan to start on my transom this weekend.

is it ok to use poly resin to do my transom with coosa rather not have to use epoxy also would like to use it on my stringers ?

what thickness coose should be used on the transom ?

how many layers of 1708 are you guys using on the transom to fill it in to make it soild ?

also thank you to everyone that has helped me this far 

[mshugg]

Nothing wrong with polyester resin.  Just make sure surfaces are clean and roughed up.  It’s best to use laminating resin with no wax.  Then you’ll need to apply something to block the air as a last layer.  You could use finishing resin, but I don’t like the idea of introducing wax to something I’ll be bonding to later.  I like PVA because it will block the air, but cleans up with water.

Use 2 layers of 3/4” Coosa or 1 layer of 1 1/2”.  It’s a good idea to hot coat the surface of the Coosa, so your resin soaks as deep as possible into the surface, before you start laminating.  With polyester, you’ll probably want to put a layer of chopped strand between the 2 layers of 3/4” Coosa.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

 

And I used three layers of 1708 to fill in the notch (if you plan to raise it), and then three more outside, coosa, and then three more on the inside with 6, 10 and 12 inch overlaps.

[RickK]

Need this also:
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

[brad329]

so i went to FGCI and got some supplies a roll of 1708,resin,fumed silica,went 3/4 nida core for my deck and then to marine surplus and got a sheet of 1 1/2'' coosa that had a little damage on part of it for $200 didn't think that was a bad deal .

I got most of the wood off the transom but found in some spots the glass is delaminating from its self i ground it down in the spots that was delaminated but now its not nice and flat so what should i do to level it out so i can get a good lamination to my coosa was thinking of mixing some silica and resin and using it like body filler before i glass over it and fill the notch in but not sure this is a good idea as im using polyester resin and it would have any glass in it 

i wanted to get more done this weekend but between running around getting supplies  and it being so hot i didnt 

rick i plan to use the pvc drain trick you posted also.

mike i am filling the notch so you answered my question on that.

mshugg  i went with the 1 1/2" sense i wound it for $200

[mshugg]

That’s a great price on the Coosa, less than half.

For the transom face, I’d feather out the edges of the notch.  Assuming that your outer skin is 1/8” to 3/16” about 1 1/2” should be a good distance.  Screw a sheet of PVA coated melamine to the back of the transom to keep things flat.  Fill in the notch with 3 layers of 1708 lapping into your existing transom skin.  Since your working with poly, let those layers kick, then go with 2-3 layers of 1708 over the whole transom face.  Then add a layer of chopped strand mat.   Trowel a layer of silica thickened resin on your prepared Coosa with a notched trowel and clamp your core in place.  The CSM and thickened resin will fill all the little dips. 

Be sure that your Coosa is cleaned of any contaminants and then hot coat it with resin.  You can repair the Coosa while the layers of 1708 kick, but you want the CSM layer to be uncurled when you clamp in your Coosa core.  Extra hands are essential.

[RickK]

One thing to add is lay in a good fillet of thickened resin along the joint areas where the transom meets the hull sides and hull bottom before you add the full width (plus over lap of 4, 8,  and 12" on hull sides and bottom) of 1708 because 1708 doesn't like to bend. The fillets will help with that. Use a wooden spoon to give it the radius you want (buy several and use a grinder to form the shape you want). If you plan it right you can lay in the fillets and let them almost kick off and then lay in the cloth "wet on wet". Don't roll too hard (with the hard roller) or you will deform the fillets.
Then after you scruff up the CSM and get everything ready for the core you want to dry fit the core again and see if it needs more trimming. 3 layers of 1708 is about 5/16" if I remember right. Allow for another fillet around the perimeter.
Once the core is clamped in and sets, you are ready for 3 more layers  of 1708 on the inside and don't forget the....fillets.

Ok, that was more than one thing 

[brad329]

finally all the transom grinding is done will be put my melamine on tomorrow and start glassing this weekend .

pick up a tower this week cheap plan on adding a something off the back like a t top for some shade

[brad329]

got a little bit done today filled some of the holes in the transom and put the pvc in for my drain also got my glass cut out man i thought i was going to get so much more done hut it was just to hot out

[mshugg]

Nice progress.  The heat has been brutal.  It’s better to go slow than make mistakes.  I spent most of the day yesterday redoing my project from Saturday afternoon.

[RickK]

Yeah it's been an oven here lately.

[brad329]

got some more done yesterday night came out good got one air pocket in the last layer i will be fixing other then that not to bad



hopefully i have enough room to put a crown on my transom i made it a little short i forgot and didn't account for the wood i clamped my glass with

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Looking good so far. The heat has been brutal for sure. I remember grinding last summer and I am glad that stage is over.

[mshugg]

Looks really good. I can’t tell from photo, did you add extra layers to the cut out to bring it up to level?

[brad329]

Mshugg i did 3 layers in the cut out and then 3 more but i think i need 1 more layer in the cut out it is still lower