1970 19-1 Rebuild

[kjakobsen]

Getting a material list together for what I'm going to need, the more I buy at the same time the cheaper it will be.

I know I'm using 3/4 inch marine plywood for the transom, I'm debating on 3/4 or1/2 inch for deck. I've seen many different techniques and material for glassing the deck.

for the transom I'm planning on raising it 5 inches, where the 5 inch space will be with no existing outer shell I think a few of layers of CSM, then 2 or 3 layers of 1708, 3/4 plywood, CSM, 3/4 plywood then 3 layers of 1708.



As for the deck, I'm leaning toward 1/2" for weight saving, the original doesn't even look like 1/2". What are recommended glassing suggestions, I've seen CSM on bottom and 1708 on top in various differing layers and combinations. Also I've seen deck sections glassed together out of the boat then installed in one piece, which will be very difficult for me. would it be ok to put them in section at a time then fill joints and glass over whole deck? I'm also planning on using poly resin for the entire project.

[kjakobsen]

^^^^^^ Anyone got any thoughts or recommendations on this ^^^^^

[mshugg]

I think a few of layers of CSM, then 2 or 3 layers of 1708, 3/4 plywood, CSM, 3/4 plywood then 3 layers of 1708.

As for the deck, I'm leaning toward 1/2" for weight saving, the original doesn't even look like 1/2". What are recommended glassing suggestions, I've seen CSM on bottom and 1708 on top in various differing layers and combinations. Also I've seen deck sections glassed together out of the boat then installed in one piece, which will be very difficult for me. would it be ok to put them in section at a time then fill joints and glass over whole deck? I'm also planning on using poly resin for the entire project.

Your transom lamination schedule looks good.  For the deck, half inch ply is fine, but CSM is good for adding bulk and cosmetics.  It does little for strength.  Your deck functions a bit like an I beam, in that downward force is transferred through the core to the bottom skin.  The bottom skin must resist a stretching force.  I wouldn’t trust CSM.  I would go with one layer 1708 on the bottom and one or two layers on top.  If you want, a layer of CSM on top would allow for better fairing.

Laying the deck in sections is no problem, but you would need some kind of cleat on the bottom to support the seam.

[kjakobsen]

Going with 3/4 for the deck, found a killer price on it that's a lot cheaper than I can get 1/2 anywhere around where I'm at. Any Ideas on a cleat for the seams?

[RickK]

You're bound to have scraps from cutoffs of the plywood. I would cut a 3" strip and seal it up real well and use that as a cleat.
CSM works great with poly and melts the binders. The 1708 has a layer of 3/4oz CSM sewn in on one side so the poly can bind with it.

[kjakobsen]

I'm sure I'll have lots of scraps, I don't know what a cleat is how do I make it? when you say seal it up does that mean just cover it with resin?

[mshugg]

The plywood sealed up with resin or CSM/resin will work great.  Another option is to cut them out of glass.

H If there are parts of your 191 that you’re not using you can rip it into strips for cleats.  Or, you can laminate up 2 or three layers of 1708 on a waxed piece of melamine and rip into strips.  Advantage of going all glass is nothing to seal.

[kjakobsen]

How do you adhere it to the underside of the deck pieces? I wouldn't think you would want any screws in the deck after its all sealed up

[mshugg]

How do you adhere it to the underside of the deck pieces? I wouldn't think you would want any screws in the deck after its all sealed up

Rough the surfaces with 80 grit sandpaper and glue with thickened epoxy.

[RickK]

 
To make a good composite cleat - if I remember right, 2 layers of 1708 is about a 1/16" (or a little less) - I would think a 1/8" would be a good cleat.  You can do this easily by using plastic sheet (visqueen or even painters drop cloth plastic) - lay the plastic down, roll resin on it, lay the first piece of cloth and roll resin on it, roll out the air with a roll out tool, repeat until you have the desired thickness and then let it cook. It peels right off the plastic.

[kjakobsen]

Got it, thanks guys. Hopefully I'll get the wood out of the transom this weekend and all cleaned up and ready to do the wood and glass next weekend.

[kjakobsen]

Got all the wood out, that kind of sucked.



the 2 pieces were nailed and stapled together, either there was no glue or resin between the 2 sheets or it broke down over time but the t sheets came right apart and just about fell apart after I cut it in to squares.















The dark spot is a void in the resin almost a quarter of an inch deep.



That was some of the crummiest plywood I ever saw, full of voids between the laminations.



Now the grinding fun and itching begins

[RickK]

Yeah it's a little work to get the old core out - an air chisel helps Looks good now.
See if you can find a 24-36 grit flap sanding wheel for the angle grinder -those things are beasts and make short business out of anything it touches.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Getting the transom out was the worst part of mine so far. I'm glad it's done! Mine was similar in that some of the wood just peeled right out. I've found that a good coating of baby powder on any exposed skin really helps keep the itching down.

[kjakobsen]

Didn't get very far over the weekend as I had hoped, cookouts, yard work and a honey do list, but I did manage to get cover over her.



Unfortunately when I was cleaning I managed to cut thru the hull in a couple of spots, but it's all fixable so no biggie





I did order my first round of fiberglass and it should be here today, got it from fiberglass supply depot in Fort Pierce. It was cheaper even with shipping than around me locally and the places near me don't sell it in a continuous run its in precut lengths to 10 yards which I think will lead to more waste unless I got an entire roll