Mike's 77 22-2 Rebuild

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Old transom is out! I used the skilsaw to cut it into chunks which popped out relatively easily with a small crowbar. Chipping and grinding out the rest was by far the worst part so far. I'm glad to have the heavy grinding done for now. If anyone is considering doing this during the absolute hottest part of the year I would recommend against it..

Now the fun begins. Time to start building it back up!

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Now I have a question about the new transom lam schedule. I want to use epoxy where I can for strength but also want to gelcoat the inside and outside. I was thinking I would clamp up and wax a piece of melamine and then do two layers of 1708 and however much csm I need to fill in the cutout (going full transom) with poly or vinylester, and then once that cures glue the 1 1/2" coosa in with epoxy and then do two or three more layers of 1708 on the inside, tabbed in at 6, 8, and 12 and then a final layer of csm all with poly or vinylester. How's that sound?

[theFunsmith]

Sounds pretty good to me, but I think it may take more than 2 layers of 1708 to match the thickness of the existing transom skin. Might be a good idea to have another piece or two cut in case you need them once things are wet.

[RickK]

I think I would do 3 layers of 1708 on the transom and also 3 on the inside after the core. 3 at first will beef up the transom skin.

[Marcel4t]

When I closed in my transom, I used 2 pieces of 1703 to fill in open space, then 3 more large pieces tabbed in, then 2 more pieces to level out the open area.  So basically, the area to fill in for my closed transom took 7 layers to match the rest of the skin that was already there. 
You can watch some of my vids to see how I did mine.

Also, dont rule out gel coat over epoxy, check out these vids:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwS4YgoGFm8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHAbyglpp3M

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Thanks for the replies. Looks like at least one more layer is in order.

And thanks for the links Marcel. I have watched some of his videos but haven't seen that one yet. Good stuff to consider.

[RickK]

Mike, please read these posts and add a piece of PVC  in the hull bottom - I wish I would have thought of this before I did my transom.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Mike, please read these posts and add a piece of PVC  int he hull bottom - I wish I would have thought of this before I did my transom.

For sure Rick. I think I have read pretty much every rebuild thread here over the years and that is just one of the many great tips I've picked up.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Back to it today after taking last weekend off to go see the big mouse. Started prepping the new transom to go in. Started out by making a template out of some ripped down 2x4s. Used a brad nailer and wood glue to tack them together.



Then cut the 1 1/2" coosa core to fit. We started with the jig saw but the blade wondered around a bit so we ended up switching over to the skilsaw for a better edge.



Then it was just a little rounding off of the outside edge and it set in place just about perfectly. I also went back and notched out a place for the drain.



Next I'll use the template to get the 6 sheets of 1708 all cut to the right sizes and test fit them all. I also got a sheet of melamine and some 2x4s and bolts to clamp it all together.  Now as soon as it looks like I'll get a day or two without rain I will glass down the drain pipe and start laying it up. Lots of prepping and planning for this part.

[RickK]

Yup, this is the exciting part - so many things to do almost all at the same time. 
Set up a board across the top of the transom above the work area and clamp the layers of cloth to the board. You don't have to use a template to cut the cloth (except to add 4" everywhere for the overlaps if you need to), use the board to drop one layer in and trim to fit, then roll the second layer in and trim and finally the third layer and trim. Then roll all the layers out of the boat, lay your fillets along all the corners, let them set a bit and then mix up the first batch of resin and coat the transom/melamine and roll the first layer into the boat and roll resin on it and then roll out the bubbles. Then repeat with the 2nd and third layers. This approach is compliments of dirtwheelsFL.
PS - get a buddy to mix the resin ahead of you.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Thanks for the tips, Rick. Since it's been raining every night I went ahead and precut the six layers of 1708 in the garage using the same template that I used to cut the Coosa. I have them all numbered and added the appropriate overlaps to each one. (Going with 4, 8 and 12) I made sure to add an extra four inches to the top of each so I have a place to clamp them as well. I just need to cut two or three more smaller pieces to fill in the cutout where the motor used to hang. I set one in place this afternoon and it fit perfectly.

I also made a checklist to use for when mother nature gives me a break since there are so many things to do in a short amount of time. The last thing I want to do is miss something and have to grind everything back out.

[RickK]

I re-read my earlier post about the pipe and see I forgot to add the links  - sorry - here they are

Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Thanks for sharing the links again. I do have one question. If you glue a 1" OD piece of PVC into the 1" drain hole, how do you then install the new garboard drain plug since the walls of the pipe make the hole less than an inch now? Do you have to drill out the pipe from the outside so it will fit?

[RickK]

No. You lay the pipe (maybe even grind an angle on the end that mates up to transom) against the transom and glue it in maybe with some thickened resin.  The garboard drain plug attaches to the outside of the transom - mine didn't have anything that went inside, just the plate and the plug. I didn't think of the pipe before I did my transom but I didn't want to drill into my new wood core so dirtwheelsfl told me about this method.
You take a 1" ID piece of pvc and one 2" ID piece of pvc and center the 1" inside the 2" and fill with thickened resin and let it harden. I then used a hole saw a 1/4" larger than the OD of the 2" down to the core (so just through the fiberglass)


Then I cut the glued pipes to the thickness of the hole (or just a little less) and then glued it into the hole (thickened resin)


And then fill in the gap with more thickened resin.  Now when you mount the garboard plate with the screws, the screws will penetrate the thickened resin between the two pipes


I thought the design was genius.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Ok, that is where I was confused. All the drains I have seen had a piece that went inside about an inch. I'll have to either look for one that doesn't or investigate Dirtwheels' method. Thanks!