74’ 222 aquasport rebuild or replace?

[Jonathansproul]

Hey all!

I have a 74’ 222 aquasport. Last spring I replaced the transom (about $2,200 for everything - I didn’t do a perfect job- but it’s strong as hell!) . This spring was planning on doing some hull repairs... as I was putting on my bottom paint last year I noticed towoward the starboard side, just behind the center of the boat on the bottom of the hill, there was an approx 2’X2’ soft spot that when hit with a hammer made a hollow THUD! I could press it fairly easily and it would move like it was delaminated(which I think it is). Ultimately I want to know what this can mean? What the best way to repair? Either removing portion of the floor and tackling from above? Or grinding out from bottom and then redoing the build up of cloth/resin.

Also is this dangerous if I ride it out one more season?

Is it likely that stringers need to be replaced?

Any advice would be appreciated

[mshugg]

It could be a stringer that has let go, or it could be impact damage to the hull.  Either way, it requires further inspection.  I wouldn't be comfortable guessing at the is it dangerous to run question.  How hard do you run the boat?  Where?  What are the potential consequences?  And what exactly is the nature of the damage?

If there's any chance that the stringer has let go, You probably need to cut at least part of the deck out.  It would be easier to do a high quality repair on an impact damaged hull from both the top and bottom too. 

Rebuild or replace?  That's the million dollar question.

[RickK]

If you saw the stringer layout of these boats there is not really a lot of places you should be able to flex the bottom. This being said I am with mshugg in thinking maybe you have a stringer that broke loose from the hull. Only way to tell is chop chop.  If it's tolerable and the hull isn't twisting as you run in a slight chop, maybe you can live with it a couple years.
You can cut the sole out pretty easily without wrecking the stringers, just to look.

[Jonathansproul]

I run the boat out in Casco Bay- southern coast of Maine. I stay no further than a few miles from the Maine land. I stay out of the chop for the most part- but since it’s the ocean I run into chop from time to time. I take my family out quite often so there is a big risk for me in that sense. If the stringer has delaminated from hull. What is the best way at looking at that? Should i grind out a hole in the deck? Or can I go from the bottom?

This actually brings me to another question I have- what about the sides? I am able to slightly flex then too? Is this normal? I feel the side of my buddies 89’ hydrasport and that feels hard as a rock.

I would consider a complete rebuild- eg- new stringers, deck, etc... what am I looking at for cost of supplies? (Keep in mind I’m not gonna use coosa board or west system I prefer working with polyester resin and would use marine ply to keep costs lower)

I would really love to rebuild the hull from the stringers up- but I two young kids, limited space, a FT job and it’s only warm enough for resin may June-September.

I really appreciate everyone’s input and help. I love this hull it would be sad to have to say good bye.
 

[RickK]

The bottom of the hull should be at least 1/2" of solid glass at about the mid point. You shouldn't be able to easily push in on it so maybe you have some delam of the hull itself.  The sides can be easier to push in on - they are less than a 1/4" thick.
There is no "easy" way to inspect this problem - you're going to have to cut an inspection hole big enough to work through and being in the middle of the hull that makes it worse to get at.

[Jonathansproul]

Thanks for that RickK. Chances are if the hull itself is starting to delam then at least 1 stringer is saturated. So if I did need to rip out a stringer and redo- (since my floor has spongy parts too) the stringers/deck, what am I looking at for cost? (Just want a general sense)

Thanks again

[mshugg]

Cost for the deck depends on your local supplier.  Plan on:

4 sheets of 1/2” or 3/4” marine ply for the deck. 
36 yards of 1708 would be 2 layers on top and 1 on the bottom
     (With 3/4” ply, you could probably get away with 1 layer top and bottom)
12 yards 1.5 oz mat
     (Optional, but provides a sacrificial layer on top for sanding smooth)
1 roll biax tape
     (Optional, but easier to work with than scrap 1708,  for tabbing in your deck)
About 10 gallons of resin
1-2 gallons bonding putty

As for the hull and stringers, you won’t know untill you can inspect.

[Jonathansproul]

Ok- thank you for the listing- that definitely helps.

Let’s say I were to do new stringers. Does anyone know a good pour foam?

I was thinking of cutting off the top of the stringers and digging  out all the rot, then pour new foam into existing stringers castings- and re-glass the top. Does this seem like a reasonable method?

If not, what type wood is most often used for this?

Thanks again for everyone’s input.

[mshugg]

Four pound density 2 part polyurethane foam is what you want for your stringers.  As long as the stringers are in good shape your plan to cut the top open dig out the wet foam, replace the foam and seal the tops is good.  Plus you’ll need to grind out any of the old tabbing that let go.  Look for cracks where the sides of the stringer meet the hull.   You’ll want to use 1708 for new tabbing and to wrap the tops of the stringer.  For both, a thickness of at least 3/16” is about right.  That’s 3 to four layers of 1708.

If you decide that you need to replace the stringers, 3/4” marine ply works.  Lots of boats of the boats used marine ply for stringers back in the day.  You’ll want to wrap them with glass and tab them into the hull.  Again  3/16” is a good minimum thickness. 

You could also build a mold and make your own fiberglass box stringer.  That’s what Rick did for his 170 rebuild.  It’s more work, but it keeps the all glass stringer system that Aquasport is known for.

Keep your fingers crossed that things aren’t as bad as you fear.  My CCP had dry foam in the stringers, and just a few places where the tabbing had cracked or let go.  It definitely simplified things.

[RickK]

To take the ^^ suggestions a little further, I think if you find delam on the stringer(s) to the hull (there is usually a thick 24oz piece of roven cloth between them). Here is an example from my boat
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0587.JPG

I would recommend doing everything below the sole in epoxy.  Poly is not strong connecting to itself, like old poly, epoxy on the other hand, oh man, it is strong, like 20 times stronger than poly trying to stick to something.  If you have to do structural work, do it in epoxy.  I know you did your transom in poly, so did I initially, and then did the last lams in epoxy and had to get creative on how to go back to poly above the sole. See my thread in the Osprey Rebuilds/170/175/ rickks 170 rebuild to see how I did it. (https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.0)