Finally did it... 1985 222 refit...

[Flapilot]

Question

How do I secure my console to nida core? 

I don’t have access to it underneath and from the test holes I’ve drilled they didn’t expoy in any backing plates.

I was thinking toggle bolts possibly?

[mshugg]

Probably better to overdrill and fill with thickened epoxy.  Then screw into the epoxy plug.  Any penetration of nidacore creates possibility of crushing the core.

[Flapilot]

Probably better to overdrill and fill with thickened epoxy.  Then screw into the epoxy plug.  Any penetration of nidacore creates possibility of crushing the core.

Would this stuff work?

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive/

[mshugg]

Looks like it would work.  Probably a bit more expensive than adding fillers to regular epoxy, but very convenient.

[Woodeneye]

I would add West (or similar) milled fibres to any epoxy (pre- thickened or not), you were going to put a screw in. And make the holes oversize. When I put my tee top on & new leaning posts I drilled a oversize hole of 1'' (leaving the bottom/inside skin intact) and filled it with epoxy & milled fibres. Let it kick off, faired and glassed over it. Then tapped threads into it and screwed into that. Provided the surrounding foam/ply and glass are structurally sound it should be rock solid. I've had the pre thickened stuff fail, it was surprisingly brittle.

[Flapilot]

I havent gotten much done lately.  Waiting for the leanpost livewell to be finished.  Hopefully just another week.

I did mange to get the bilge wired. 

[RickK]

Any progress is still progress.

[Flapilot]

Little bit done today.  Inching closer.  I have a week off so no excuses.

We lifted the console in today and did a test fit with the cooler.







There is a ton of room to walk around.  Im glad I went with the smaller console.

So as we talked about before was how to mount the console on the nida core.  I decided to drill out holes almost all the way through the deck and then use an allen wrench to remove about an 1.25 worth of material below the surface and then back fill with epoxy.  Hopefully that makes sense.





Cored out hole vacuumed clean


epoxy filled and smoothed with a spackle


so you can see here the top opening is only 3/4" but below the top layer of the deck the cored out area is easily double that size.


So I think Ill wait a full 2 days for that to cure before I screw it down.  Do you guys/girls think 12 screws is enough?

Back in the bildge I made a rookie mistake.  I installed(read put down with 5200 ) 2 fairly large pumps that have a 1 1/8" outlet.  Problem is the bilge is plumbed with 3/4" tube.  So it took a while but I was able to find some 1 1/8" to 3/4" reducers.  So I paid extra for some big pumps that wont be able to move as much water as they should.  Oh well but I bet they shoot that water like 5 foot from the boat!



I also managed to get the bulkhead holes drilled for the hydraulic steering.  I still need to run the cables through the rigging tubes but I still have a little work to do on the aft equipment boxes.  I ordered some rubber grommets to help with ares where the lines might chaff.   



Ive started getting some quotes for a suzuki 175.  Hopefully the boat will be ready soon.

[RickK]

Looking good!
Over drilling and filling is the best you can hope for when using a honeycomb type composite. I would give it several days to cure. What I found is if you don't drill the correct size pilot hole in the cured epoxy, when you install the screws, the plug will actually break loose and start turning between the top and bottom glass. I took this same approach in my tank lid where I mounted the battery trays.

[Flapilot]

 Ive been a little lazy keeping up on the site.  The boat however is ready for a motor!

I ordered the livewell leanpost combo.  Initially I was going to go with an oval livewell and use it as the seat as well.  But after trying the different options I decided this better suited the entire family and still managed maximum fishing ability and room on the boat.  This livewell is only 30x30 so again with the small console there is soooo much room on this boat.



The livewell has a false bottom.  Makes for easy plumbing.  I also added a small LED as well.



it has a 1 1/2" drain pipe. and a 1 1/8" fill on a 1200 gph pump.  The fill valve is adjustable as well.  So if we want shrimp or crabs or the drain pipe just cant keep up we can dial it back.





Mounting the livewell was a bit of a challenge.  The front of the livewell was over the coffin box.(side not my fuel tank is enormous, guessing 80 gallons)  So the front screws for the livewell were done just like the console.  Drill out, and back fill with epoxy.  The side and aft screws I was able to bolt through.  I used PVC board as a backing plate to spread the load.  I cant imagine this thing is going anywhere but with the weight of the water in the well I just wanted to make sure.

 



I added these rod holders on each side of the console.







You can see how much room is on the boat.



aft of the livewell


Yes the livewell and console are different colors, and it drives me crazy a little :-)







Finished up the wiring and put the batteries under the console



To my amazement everything turned on!



I got the plate hydraulic lines hooked up.



and was able to get the steering and plate lines into a nice rigging tube.  The other side will have a rigging tube similar to this as well.  The only thing that will be visible once the motor is mounted will be the fuel water separator.  Even that wont be bad though.  It should tuck up under the lip and only be about 50% visible.



that big hole is for speakers....


So thats where she sits.  Ordering the Motor tomorrow.  Decided to go with a suzuki 175.  Im leaning towards white, but I will make that decision tomorrow I guess.  Im hoping to have it on the water before all the tarpon leave the bay.

[Brendanpd28]

Just beautiful!!! Love how amazingly clean your wiring is also.....really satisfies my OCD lol. I think the white Suzuki is the way to go for sure.....will really polish it off.  Well done and congrats!

[RickK]

Very nice - she came out super.

[Woodeneye]

Daaaang. That's Purdy!

[mshugg]

Looks great!  I love your leaning post/ livewell.  Do you have a longer shot of your console wiring?  It looks clean and well thought out.

[Flapilot]

Looks great!  I love your leaning post/ livewell.  Do you have a longer shot of your console wiring?  It looks clean and well thought out.

All the pictures I have of the wiring are in the thread. I’ll see if I can grab some more next time I’m at the boat.


Rigging question for you guys. I’m trying to rig the fuel line with these TH rigging flanges and Y.
https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/rigging-flange-with-fuel-hose-port-and-rigging-hose-union

The problem is the flange fits type A fuel line(great that’s what I’m using) but the Y fits type B. It’s so weird to me that they sell it this way. Is it typical to change to type B after the primer bulb and separator? 

That’s fine if it is I’ll just use type B, but I thought type B was the one that has issues with ethanol?