New to me 215 Explorer

[wingtime]

You should be able to get 40mph out of her with that Ficht. My buddy has the 210 explorer with a carbed 175 and he can squeeze 40 out of her. We had to move his motor up one mounting hole.

[ckumpel]

Ill have to take a look, would be nice to get a couple more mile per hour.  I did find out this motor was rebuilt in 2002 and it appears to have all of the updates.  A lot of parts on the fuel system appear to be from 2002 and say bombardier.  The heads are pinned. So I think it will be a fairly reliable motor knock on wood

[wingtime]

Motor should hold up just fine. Run good BRP XD50 or even better XD100 oil in it. The pins refer to longer deflector pins placed between the injectors and the spark plugs to prevent carbon build up. Speaking of carbon build up. Be sure to run the snot out of it now and then. Long periods of idle and low power rpms can cause carbon build up in any DFI motor. Running it hard burns it off.

If you have access to a gopro mount it on the stern of the boat. Say on a ladder or lifting eye where it has a good view of the anticavitation plate on your motor. Then go run it. You should be able to see the plate running on top of the water when your up on a plane.

[wingtime]

Found the video we took of my buddies 215 Explorer before we raised his engine up. You can clearly see the cavitation plate is buried under the water while on a plane.

[ckumpel]

Thank you!  I will check it out.  Quick question, i am wanting to do a compression check.  What is the best way to keep the ignition from energizing? I know i can ground the plug wires but that seems like a bit of a pain.  Can i just disconnect the crank position sensor?

[wingtime]

Unplugging the crank sensor is exactly how you do it.

[ckumpel]

Awesome, thank you!

[wingtime]

Look into getting the brp diagnostics software and cable. You can get it on ebay. I bought mine from a guy in Croatia or something like that. Very very handy to have.

Make sure you have regular nuts, not wing nuts on your battery terminals and that they are good and tight. Loose battery connections can damage the EMM. Also make sure your key is off, better yet the battery switch is off when unplugging and plugging back in sensors.

[ckumpel]

Thank you.  Planning on buying a diagnostics cable off ebay.  I wanted to get a compression test out of the way first.  Compression is good.  Im having an issue where it wont rev past 4000 rpms.  No check engine lights though.  Im checking fuel pressure tomorrow morning because i think the high pressure fuel pump might be the culprit.  If not, i will do an injector test once i get the cable.  Thanks again for your help.

[wingtime]

I've  seen a 250hp Etec that was running with a failed hp fuel pump. Crazy.

Does it just loose power and not go past 4k or is it like hitting a wall?

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the return line in the VST.

The software will allow you diagnose each cylinder for spark and injectors... really cool stuff.

[ckumpel]

Its like it loses power.  Then intermittently itll kinda pick it back up and act like its going to go then dies again to 4000.

[ckumpel]

Any idea where i can hook up to for checking pressure on the high pressure fuel pump?  This motor had the recall done where they removed the schrader valve on the return line.  Also, do you know if the tank pickup has a strainer on it?  I hope not because it looks like its impossible to get to.

[ckumpel]

Thinking i can get a brass test tee in here, the top rubber line.  Thats the feed off the pump to the fuel rail

[wingtime]

Usually there was one on the outlet and return side of the high pressure pump where it attaches to the VST.


The boat fuel tank does no have a strainer on it.

[ckumpel]

Finally did the fuel pump pressure test.  30 psi with turning the key and letting the pump run.  Turns off and the pressure bleeds off through the vst.  So it looks like thats working correctly.  Im thinking possibly fuel line issue now