Oil tank is coming off

[wingtime]

I can tell you salt-off, salt-away, salt-terminator, etc work good... very good. You can also use the citrus based degreaser, or even white vinegar when you flush your motor. It will definitely help prevent the build up you have.

I personally use the CRC brand salt terminator. Not only do I use it to flush my motor. I use it to rinse off my boat, trailer,fishing gear, dive gear, and even under my truck. I swear by it.

[clop52]

Thanks all.

Capt Bob, the t-stats are operating good. And i'll keep an eye on that from now on.

Jason, no worries. I was concerned i was missing something.

Wingtime, thanks for that. I started the first flush with salt-away today.  The instructions said that in order to breakdown salt build-up, once must flush the engine for 30 seconds with the salt-away mixture every 24 hours for 2-4 days. And obviously no salt water in between. So no boating for me this weekend...

Jason! Though i have not taken the heads off yet, i did checked every single bolt and they all loosen up with not issues!  So, after the salt away treatment, i am going to remove them and see how they look...pictures to come.

Also, thanks for pointing me to the yamaha outboard forum.  I am having a weird electrical issue and i may have found the answer there.

[boatnamesue]

Jason! Though i have not taken the heads off yet, i did checked every single bolt and they all loosen up with not issues!  So, after the salt away treatment, i am going to remove them and see how they look...pictures to come.

Also, thanks for pointing me to the yamaha outboard forum.  I am having a weird electrical issue and i may have found the answer there.

That's fantastic news!  If you don't already have a torque wrench in the tool box, now is the time to get one.  Although yamaha specifies a torque value for just about every part that's secured with a bolt, it's ok to skip out on applying spec torque to a few of these parts.  But crankcase bolts are not one of these parts.  I picked up a nice torque socket wrench with a long arm at auto zone or some similar store for about $10. 

Once you're putting the cylinder head and head cover back on, be sure to follow the torque protocol for these 2 different size bolts.  See the chart below.  The torquing process is 2 step.  For example, the cylinder head has 20 bolts.  1st torque step is 11ft/lb, 2nd torque step is 22ft/lb.  So you start screwing all the bolts in by hand, then go around and torque each bolt to 11ft/lb, then final torque of 22ft/lb.  Simple.

Yeah, the yamaha outboard parts forum has been a blessing for me.  Any issue I have ever had has been resolved by the help I've received on that forum.  And unlike many online public forums, 99.9% of the yamaha members aren't A-holes.  So you know, that's always good.     

Good luck and looking forward to seeing the pics.

[clop52]

***UPDATE***
All right, today is the fourth day I used Salt-Away to clean all the junk from inside my engine that was preventing water from cooling it efficiently.  I am going to do a couple of more days because i misread the directions and reused the same liquid two days in a row instead of replacing it every time. My bad.

However, so far these are my observations:

1. There are more holes from which water is coming out of when I flush the engine.  See below...



2. The "pisser" is much more potent now.



3.  Capt Bob mentioned that the holes above the vent should start expelling water about a minute or so after the engine is running.  This indicates that the t-stats are working properly.  However, these holes are expelling water as soon as the engine starts. 

Questions to ponder:

1. Based on observation number 3, Does this mean that my engine is still running hot?

2. If number one is affirmative, how can i ensure that the proper oil/fuel ratio is present? If the oil/fuel ratio wasn't just right, would that automatically shut off my engine?

Jason, i am still hesitant to open the heads...mostly because the gaskets are $25 each and i have to buy four! Hahaha! i know, i'm cheap.  After tomorrow's flush, I'll open the t-stats cover and take a peek inside to see how it's looking in there...if they're still all gunked up, i'll order the gaskets.

more to follow...

[Capt. Bob]

First, did you take the photo in #2 BEFORE you took the photo in #1?

Second, the pictures look exactly like my 1991 200hp Yamaha. It appears there is no water exiting the vents (not all those other holes) in the photo where you are referencing the "pisser". In the first photo, water is clearly exiting the vents(toward the rear)just above the ventilation plate. If this is correct (order of photos) then it appears your motor is functioning as designed.

Remember, the Tstats are closed at the start of a cold motor by design to retain a quantity of water in the heads in order to allow the motor to reach its operating temp range as soon as possible. Two strokes are especially "touchy" to proper temps. When reaching this temp after idling a short period, the Tstats open allowing the contained water to circulate out of the heads and then exit the system (at those vents) and cooler water to enter the system thus balancing the system and keeping the motor within the designed temp working range. That stated, you should not see water exiting those vents (but yes out those other relief holes) until the stats open.

Good luck.

[boatnamesue]

Questions to ponder:

1. Based on observation number 3, Does this mean that my engine is still running hot?
No.  I described the reason why in greater detail below the pictures

2. If number one is affirmative, how can i ensure that the proper oil/fuel ratio is present? If the oil/fuel ratio wasn't just right, would that automatically shut off my engine?
Not sure I'm understanding you.  I think you're confusing the fuel/oil mix with how warm/cold the engine runs,–whereas one has nothing to do with the other.  I mean, technically sure your engine will begin to overheat much quicker if there wasn't enough oil in the mix to burn during combustion.  Be that as it may, I don't think that's what you're referring to in your question.  Your engines "limp mode" will only be activated by high temp or low oil.  It will not, however, be activated if water is in fuel, urine is in fuel, or if you filled the tank with jet fuel.   
You haven't mentioned anything about your concern of the oil injection pump not functioning correctly, so I'm assuming it's doing its job.  You cannot alter the ratio of oil injected into the fuel system, it's self sufficient and factory set.  If you feel better by knowing it's functioning correctly, this would require the engine being run for an extended period of time.  You can take a black marker and draw a line on the engines main oil tank, where the level of oil is currently at.  Run the engine for half hour or so, then check the level.  It should be below the line you made on the tank.  If by chance you think the oil injection system has failed, then it's a good idea to manually mix oil.  If this is the case, let me know and we'll go through that procedure. 

Jason, i am still hesitant to open the heads...mostly because the gaskets are $25 each and i have to buy four! Hahaha! i know, i'm cheap.  After tomorrow's flush, I'll open the t-stats cover and take a peek inside to see how it's looking in there...if they're still all gunked up, i'll order the gaskets.

more to follow...

Overall sounds like the Salt-X has done some good since you're seeing an increased flow from pisser.  Here are answers to few of your questions:

1. Based on observation number 3, Does this mean that my engine is still running hot?
No.  I described the reason why in greater detail below the pictures

2. If number one is affirmative, how can i ensure that the proper oil/fuel ratio is present? If the oil/fuel ratio wasn't just right, would that automatically shut off my engine?
Not sure I'm understanding you.  I think you're confusing the fuel/oil mix with how warm/cold the engine runs,–whereas one has nothing to do with the other.  I mean, technically sure your engine will begin to overheat much quicker if there wasn't enough oil in the mix to burn during combustion.  Be that as it may, I don't think that's what you're referring to in your question.  Your engines "limp mode" will only be activated by high temp or low oil.  It will not, however, be activated if water is in fuel, urine is in fuel, or if you filled the tank with jet fuel.   
You haven't mentioned anything about your concern of the oil injection pump not functioning correctly, so I'm assuming it's doing its job.  You cannot alter the ratio of oil injected into the fuel system, it's self sufficient and factory set.  If you feel better by knowing it's functioning correctly, this would require the engine being run for an extended period of time.  You can take a black marker and draw a line on the engines main oil tank, where the level of oil is currently at.  Run the engine for half hour or so, then check the level.  It should be below the line you made on the tank.  If by chance you think the oil injection system has failed, then it's a good idea to manually mix oil.  If this is the case, let me know and we'll go through that procedure. 

Jason, i am still hesitant to open the heads...mostly because the gaskets are $25 each and i have to buy four! Hahaha! i know, i'm cheap.  After tomorrow's flush, I'll open the t-stats cover and take a peek inside to see how it's looking in there...if they're still all gunked up, i'll order the gaskets.
See below for details.

Take a look at the flow diagram below.  This is a standard cooling water flow diagram for yamaha 2 strokes.  I've drawn a line through the box "flushing device" because your engine does not have this feature.  Instead, follow the flow of water via muffs from the box "cooling water inlets".  I've circled in red the 3 possible water exits on the engine where water will flow out of the engine.  These 3 red circles correspond to the numbered red circles in the picture of your engine. 

#1...water exits here (Pilot hole)
#2  & #3....water exits here (Lower case)
#4....water exits here (Propeller boss)









Now, if you were to follow the flow of water from the cooling water inlet to all possible water exits, you'll discover that water will flow out of these 3 exits whether or not the stats are open or closed.  This might first sound like a contradiction to what Bob has described, but it's not.  Water will be exiting from the lower casing holes and vent when the stats are closed, but just not enough water for you to take notice of.  It's only when the stats open that you'll notice the flow from the lower casing exits because it's flow rate is exponentially higher than when stats are closed.   Also, Bob has a 200hp.  So the amount of water required to fill the heads of a 200hp and exit is much more than the amount of water required to fill that of a 115hp. 

Personally I don't look for this sign of more water flowing from lower casing as the sign the stats are open.  This is because for my engine, whether hot or cold, water exits the lower casing.  And when the engine warms, the extra amount of water flowing here isn't noticeable.  But that's my engine, and not every 2 stroke yam is going to exhibit the same flushing response as every other 2 stroke yam.  If you've verified your stats are functioning correctly via submersing in hot water, then it's safe to assume they're functioning likewise when installed. 

Re: Head Gaskets
I probably stated that when removing heads, replacing gaskets is a must.  Or maybe something like that.  If I came off as though it's required to replace gaskets when removing heads this is not so.  What I might have been implying is if you haven't replaced the gaskets since owning, and if you don't know if the previous owner replaced, this would then be a good time to swap the old ones for new ones.  Doesn't mean you have to.  You may discover after removing head cover and head that the gaskets are in good condition.  Problem is, and probably what i was hinting at, is if you discover the gaskets are not good and did not have new ones on hand....you're then having to wait on the shipment of gaskets before putting engine back together.  However, it's possible your local yamaha part distributor carries your gaskets in stock.  In which case, open the heads and if gaskets are bad you're only have to drive to the distributor verse waiting 3-5 business for mail shipment.

[clop52]

First, did you take the photo in #2 BEFORE you took the photo in #1?

Second, the pictures look exactly like my 1991 200hp Yamaha. It appears there is no water exiting the vents (not all those other holes) in the photo where you are referencing the "pisser". In the first photo, water is clearly exiting the vents(toward the rear)just above the ventilation plate. If this is correct (order of photos) then it appears your motor is functioning as designed.

Remember, the Tstats are closed at the start of a cold motor by design to retain a quantity of water in the heads in order to allow the motor to reach its operating temp range as soon as possible. Two strokes are especially "touchy" to proper temps. When reaching this temp after idling a short period, the Tstats open allowing the contained water to circulate out of the heads and then exit the system (at those vents) and cooler water to enter the system thus balancing the system and keeping the motor within the designed temp working range. That stated, you should not see water exiting those vents (but yes out those other relief holes) until the stats open.

Good luck.

Capt Bob, yes, picture two was taken before picture 1. Copy all. I had to work longer today, so I could t check the t-stats. Hopefully tomorrow.

Jason, gotcha. The oil concerns me a little, but I will ease my worries (hopefully) by doing the marking experiment you recommended.

[wingtime]

If the oil injection is not working.....along with the warning system the engine will get very noisy then suddenly quiet!

[boatnamesue]

Jason, gotcha. The oil concerns me a little, but I will ease my worries (hopefully) by doing the marking experiment you recommended.

Nothing wrong with adding oil into the fuel tank at like 25:1, if you're that concerned about it.  You've got an older engine anyhow, it'll probably appreciate the extra lube.

If the oil injection is not working.....along with the warning system the engine will get very noisy then suddenly quiet!

If the oil injection system had failed you'd a known by now, or at least if you suspected it was not working during your last few trips on the water.  This is because you probably would have thrown a rod out the block.  It will not take long for that cylinder to heat up from friction as the piston moves up and down when running an outboard engine without oil .  I'm sure you can imagine.  Seeing white smoke exiting the exhaust of a 2 stroke is also a good indication the engine is burning oil.  And I mean the standard white smoke you see after starting engine, running, etc.  Not talking about the huge white plum of smoke you'd see after blowing the block.  Yikes.

[Capt. Bob]

Capt Bob, yes, picture two was taken before picture 1. Copy all. I had to work longer today, so I could t check the t-stats. Hopefully tomorrow.

So it appears they are working as designed. 

Are you getting an alarm while you are flushing the motor?

Did you replace the poppit valve (PCV)?

If not, and you venture out and it pulls an alarm while at speed, try that first(replacing PCV) before you stress out over snapping head bolts. Again, this is just my opinion based on experience with these motors.

Good luck and quit worrying about the oil injection, your concerns lie in the cooling system.

[clop52]

All right!

I have put my oil concerns aside.  Thanks for the positive reinforcement!
I am working on replacing the PCV. I order and received a new spring, gromet and the actual valve.  However, this is what the new PCV looks like:



My question is whether should i just reuse the old one (valve), and just replace the spring and gromet. Take a look at the new kit:

And the old kit:


Until you guys response, i am going to put the old PCV with new spring and gromet. I'l flush the engine and see what happens.  I will not take it out in water until i get your thumbs up. Maybe this new design PCV was meant to be more effective..?

No rush, while i wait on your responses, i have to stain my dining room table. Never a dull moment...

Cheers!

[boatnamesue]

To be certain you've ordered the correct part number, compare its number to the correct superseded part number of the new part.  No doubt the old part has been superseded by a new part since your engine was produced.  The black plastic valve itself only serves as a seal.  Its the spring that is the functioning part by responding to a predetermined pressure. 

[RickK]

I ran into the same dilemma when I changed mine.  I initially put it in with the spring sitting on the x side of it only to figure out that I had it on backwards.   

[Capt. Bob]

It's the "new" design mushroom head poppit valve. Use it.

[clop52]

Thank you all.

Capt Bob, so does the X side go into the grommet while the mushroom side goes against the spring?