1973 19-6 restoration project

[McAllgeyver]

So I've been working slowly on this for a while and now am going to kick it in high gear and thought I would share.
The past two years this is what I've done.

[McAllgeyver]

Lots more pics to come

[McAllgeyver]

Transom had about an 1-1/2"  flex with the F115 on it. And it moved when I would lift up on the lower unit.
Removed all the black rotten wood. Probably one of the harder things Ive had to do so far. Fit two 3/4" Okoume sheets and vacuumed bagged them in.

[McAllgeyver]

Came out real nice. Then put the glass and vacuum bagged that.





Then bagged the Carbon uni @ 90 on top. Super strong.

[McAllgeyver]

The original drain hole was not quite centered. I think the arch is just a sharpie marker? Yes two layer of triax @ 0 inside and two outside. 6 layers carbon on top edge.

[RickK]

Nice work!!
Before you go much farther, realize that you have just changed the lowest point in the boat. It used to be the drain plug in the back of the boat.  Now you've moved it 12" forward - the lams you added changed that.
I think you can salvage it by drilling a long low angled hole from the original drain hole so that the lowest part of the hole in front of the transom is the low point of the boat.
May seem weird that I say this but on my rebuild my new lowest point became 12" in front of the finished transom so that now I can not drain all the water from my bilge. :-( Here is an explanation:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

[McAllgeyver]

I understand the idea.  Unfortunately it is too late.  I've already used bilge coat on the interior.  There might be some out there but  I really don't know of any boat that drains every bit of water that's inside the bilge.  I did try my best to cut the drain hole as low as possible. I already backfilled a large hole and cut the smaller drain hole inside of that and it sits pretty darn low.
Thanks

[McAllgeyver]

So I did the stringers next. Cut the tops off, chunked out the foam. Removed and replaced the center stringer. Removed what looked like an optional inboard engine mounting support system. Removed the wood coring on the inside walls of the stringer.


Replaced the center stringer with Harex, six carbon uni @0, one Weft triax @0, 6 carbon uni, one Weft triax @0


Added small ramp up to transom.

[McAllgeyver]

Then the port and starboard stringers. Cut off the tops, trimmed off all the bad parts and sanded down the inside and where the old foam that didn't chunk up easy. There was for sure plywood along the interior walls of the stringers. It was not bonded real well. Needless to say I removed all the plywood from the stringers and replaced the walls with 1" Airex c7075. Glued and glassed that in. I left the core a little tall cause I'm raising the floor an inch or two. The extra height also allowed for more repeated attempts to get the stringers flat and level.





Replaced the original bulkhead too.


Mix up some two part 2lb, i think, foam and poured it in. This stuff is crazy and made me  out with the fumes.


One side flushed off using a very long sawzall blade.


Got it all flat and level, then glued down the top using some heavy landscape pavers.  Used 3/4" Airex again.


Then rounded the edges over and laid some glass down. Went pretty smooth.


Added 5 gas tank supports. Going to use the Pascoe method for glueing the tank down.


Its nice to see things slowly take shape.

[RickK]

Looks good. 

[mshugg]

Looks solidly constructed and well engineered.

[northfork]

Your work looks great. (Slowly taking shape) haha
Looks like you are flying.

[McAllgeyver]

Thank guys! It looks like i'm flying but, I started this project two years ago and just haven't posted any of the pics till now. The boat is not done but is probably few months till completion. I am slowly adding some pics each day until I am all caught up.

[McAllgeyver]

Done with the hull for the time being. Onto the front casting deck. I scrapped the original casting deck and thought of a way to get a few more inches out the hatch openings.

Here are my recessed gutter plugs for the casting deck. Im going to make the dec just as long as the original but raise it 2 inches. The plug material is sanded down 2"x3"x8ft(actually is 1.5x2.5). It was hard to get enough pieces of good wood that were straight with minimal blemishes. I ripped them down to measure 1.5"x2" and filled in any knots or blemishes with putty. Cut them to the right size and screwed them together. Filled in the seams with putty and sanded smooth. Ran a router to round the corners over and then clear taped it completely. Resin, at least epoxy, releases from the clear tape, so it should be relatively easy to remove after glassed over. Hot glued down the wood plug to the table. Put a few coats of liquid mold release on the table and used modeling clay in the corners for a small radius.

[McAllgeyver]

So I was up against the clock here. I was lucky to have a helping hand during this but forgot to take pics during the glassing. Schedule was 6 oz, Biax, triax, 3/4" Airex, triax, peelpy, bleeder, breather, and vacuum bag. All in one shot. Came out great.


After it cured I popped it off and started to pry out the wood gutters. Some were easier than others but all in all it was better than I expected.


 You can see the hinge plug I made out of rubber bathroom floor kick material in the pic above. I have already removed them in this pic.


All the gutter plugs and hinge plugs removed. Still have to trim it up.