Oh Boy, This Can't Be Good

[boatnamesue]

Filled up the tank, headed to boat ramp for some evening fishing.  Before backing boat down I went to screw in the plug and saw a steady stream of fluid coming out.  Turns out it wasn't sea water.  It's fuel.

This is a first for me with this boat.  And I had wanted to eventually unseal fuel compartment panel to look since i bought this boat over a year ago. Rather not have to under these circumstances. 

Obviously the tank and/or fitting is leaking.  Once I've removed the console, leaning post, and panel, and advice as to how to locate the leak is appreciated.  I recon by the time I get to the tank the majority of fuel will have leaked out. 

[wingtime]

did you completely fill the tank?  If so it could be a hose or fitting leaking not the tank.

[boatnamesue]

did you completely fill the tank?  If so it could be a hose or fitting leaking not the tank.

Yes.  That's what I'm hoping.  Once I discovered fuel was draining from hull plug I just kept the boat on the ramps decline, letting it drain out.  My friend and I fished off the dock for an hour, then I trailered back to my storage facility.  Unhitched and raised bow as high as the trailer wheel jack would allow.  At that time there was no more fuel draining from hull plug.  Looked inside the access hatch near transom and there wasn't a pool of fuel like there was when I discovered the leak.

I've never seen this fuel tank so I don't know from an orientation standpoint where the fittings are.  I would think that since the bow is lifted higher than the stern, thus the tank is also on incline, if this was a leak coming from the tank itself it would continue draining out fuel.  Right?  It's a 27 gallon tank that was full.  And when the fuel was draining out of hull plug it wasn't gushing out.  Just a steady moderate trickle...estimating about a gallon/hr. 

I did most of the labor when I got to boat yard....disconnecting all of the electronics and unseating console .  So tomorrow I'll open up the fuel panel and see what's going on.  Btw, any suggestions on the most effective way to unseal the panel?  The groove between the panel and deck is about 1/4 inch, filled with what I expect is 5200.

[boatnamesue]

Btw, if anyone has a better way to siphon fuel out of a tank other than getting a mouthful of 87 octane please let me know.

[mshugg]

This works great!  Easier on the brain cells too.

https://www.amazon.com/Plumbers-Siphon-Pro-Universal-Extender/dp/B014LEQC98/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493457534&sr=1-6&keywords=siphon+pump

[Capt. Bob]

My

I could be totally wrong but..........

You probably have an aluminum tank. This could be the original tank. Over the years, moisture has entered the coffin and remained trapped against the sides/bottom of the tank and it has been slowly corroding. Once you filled the tank full, bounced it down the road to the ramp, the tank shifted and the corrosion broke free allowing the fuel to leak.

When you open the hatch and remove the tank, post a pic or two of its condition. I may be way off base with all of this but regarding the scenario above, I've been there twice so.....

Good luck.

[Blue Agave]

Regarding removing the console, if I remember correctly you may not have to unrig and remove the console. I believe once you remove all the screws holding the console down you should be able to lean the console up against the side of the boat and still have the clearance needed to remove the fuel cell hatch and the fuel cell.  I agree with CB, if the tank is original it's toast.  Once you get the tank out I recommend you pay a visit to CL Mattison & Company for a new fuel cell. Robin & Colin make great products and are good people.

[Capt. Bob]

Regarding removing the console, if I remember correctly you may not have to unrig and remove the console. I believe once you remove all the screws holding the console down you should be able to lean the console up against the side of the boat and still have the clearance needed to remove the fuel cell hatch and the fuel cell. 

 

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9956.msg87121#msg87121

There is a lot of info on fuel tank replacement methods throughout this fuel tank forum so take a look.

Good luck.

[boatnamesue]

Update:

Fuel floor panel came off easy, silicone sealant.  Pictures are below pretty much tell the story.  There was a yellow paper thin layer of dried fuel on top of the most of the surface area of tank.  By looking at the condition of the sender gasket, as well as how much flakey corrosion was surrounding it, my guess is fuel was leaking from here.  And probably for quite a long time.  After scraping most of the layer of crusty off the tank I found 4 small holes.  The diameter of these holes are about the size of the tip of a blunted lead pencil tip...1 or 2 millimeters.  In the pictures I've circled each puncture site with a black marker.  So far these are the only holes I've discovered.  1 hole next to sender, the other 3 starboard aft of tank.

I think it's safe to assume the bottom of tank is not leaking because the tank remains at least 3/4 full, no fuel leaking into bilge.  The tank was manufactured by EVER-NU Tank Corp, Pompano Beach, FL.  Manufactured date is 1988, 29 gallons.  The "Const. Mat." is 090.  I'm not sure what that indicates.  The code for aluminum, SS?

So now's the time to chime in after looking through pics.  Please let me know what you think.  Replace tank?  JB weld the puncture sites and replace fuel sender/gasket, then pressurize tank to confirm no other leaks?  I'm headed back to the boat now to siphon out fuel, clean up the tanks surface a little more for better inspection. 

This first picture is what the sender looked like before I started scraping

[Capt. Bob]

I'd bet good money that thing is rotted on the side/bottom.

That's me though but looking at what you can see, well.....think what you can't see.

.090 is the thickness of the aluminum material used.

[boatnamesue]

What is the usual method of laying the tank down...directly on coffin bed, or will the bottom be secured?  I haven't removed the foam so I can't see.

I'll start researching through the forum's fuel tank threads.  Just in case I don't come across info regarding poly tanks, how does everyone feel about these? 

My model/year original tank was 27 gallons.  This tank is 29 gallons.  So the original tank must of had different dimensions.  If I go with replacing, do I replicate the dimensions of this tank, or are there multiple options I should know about.

Lastly, for now, anyone know of a fuel tank fabricator, fuel tank business, in the tampa/stpete area please let me know.  Thanks. 

[boatnamesue]

Almost forgot about this....pictured below, the view is from port looking starboard.  Inside the red circle is a thru hole.  In/out from the fuel coffin to the starboard wire/hose tray (where your helm-engine connections lay under the removable panel.  If the idea is to keep inside the fuel coffin as dry as possible, why is there a thru hole here?  Even though I keep my scuppers plugged while at sea, the boat is self bailing.  If the scuppers are open, water makes its way inside the boat and up the tray as the boat pitches to bow.  With this thru hole, water would just dump right into the coffin.  This can't be an original thru hole, right??

[Brendanpd28]

Sorry to hear about your tank situation. I also recommend getting the replacement taken care of while you have it opened up. I just completed my 170 tank install. Used the Pascoe method which was very straight forward and a tried and tested method. I got my tank from Phil at alloy metal works.very fair price and fast. I payed $380 delivered I believe. I posted all the steps i used in the forum and you can find many others on here as well. Good luck!!

[boatnamesue]

Sorry to hear about your tank situation. I also recommend getting the replacement taken care of while you have it opened up. I just completed my 170 tank install. Used the Pascoe method which was very straight forward and a tried and tested method. I got my tank from Phil at alloy metal works.very fair price and fast. I payed $380 delivered I believe. I posted all the steps i used in the forum and you can find many others on here as well. Good luck!!

Did you use foam to insulate the tank?  If not, what did you use to prevent tank from shifting?

[Brendanpd28]

I put 4 - 2" wide 1/4" thick strips of pvc board on the bottom of the tank. Adhered with 5200. Not just a bead...5200 needs to be spread across the entire surface so there aren't any pockets where moisture can develop. I then ran thick beads of 5200 along the bottom of those strips and adhered the tank to the coffin. That's all the Pascoe method calls for. A lot of guys add crush blocks and other methods for additional security....but I'm sticking with just the 5200. it really is a true mechanical bond. I've seen 5200 hold amazing weights. Tank isn't going anywhere. Search "Brendan's 170 tank install" for pictures and additional info.