I’m thinking about making a bracket that has 2 live bait wells built into it on the sides, below the water line & also has a dry storage space in the center, between the wells, also below the water line. The dry storage area would be buoyant and would help to offset the rear movement of the motor weight. The bottom of the bracket would taper up from the existing hull bottom. The boat in my driveway has a very soft deck that will be ripped up 100%. Since I need to get into it that far anyway, I’m thinking of also adding a long narrow fish box or two, below deck on the outside of the stringers. This would be for things like Wahoo, big Mahi & King Mackerel that just don’t fit in the original fish box up front.
Quote from: JimInPB on August 20, 2017, 01:09:29 PMI’m thinking about making a bracket that has 2 live bait wells built into it on the sides, below the water line & also has a dry storage space in the center, between the wells, also below the water line. The dry storage area would be buoyant and would help to offset the rear movement of the motor weight. The bottom of the bracket would taper up from the existing hull bottom. The boat in my driveway has a very soft deck that will be ripped up 100%. Since I need to get into it that far anyway, I’m thinking of also adding a long narrow fish box or two, below deck on the outside of the stringers. This would be for things like Wahoo, big Mahi & King Mackerel that just don’t fit in the original fish box up front.Compared with other 170 forum members, I've got one of the heaviest engines installed on a 170. Yamaha '98 115hp (376lb dry). I also have an above deck removable 13 gallon baitwell, located port stern. When I've got a full tank of fuel and the baitwell full of bait and water, I usually never need to trim up the engine after planing. This is because the stern is so heavy it raises the bow. Any more than 3/4 throttle and I'm porpoising. My point is, these classic 170's are very very very sensitive to weight in the rear. If you do a search here for members 170's that have added a bracket, or a jackplate with 6" or more setback, you'll discover most if not all have porpoising issues.I'm just spitballing here, so bear with me. This is all in good fun. If your talking about adding a bracket, which will weight X amount. Adding 2 bait wells, which weigh X amount. Along with setting the engine back X distance. So not only are you adding weight to stern, but you're also setting the engine weight back. The addition of flotation pods won't make a difference unless your talking about molding one seamless box onto the transom, from keel up to notch, beam to beam, and following the 12º dead rise, thereby making 17' more like 20'-22'. Once you're up on plane, if these pods aren't a flush running surface extension of the boat, then the flotation they provide will be zero...because they'll be out of the water. IMO, save yourself a ton of headache and possible heartbreak–if it doesn't work out–and get yourself a 22-2.
Quote from: boatnamesue on August 25, 2017, 01:01:56 AMQuote from: JimInPB on August 20, 2017, 01:09:29 PMI’m thinking about making a bracket that has 2 live bait wells built into it on the sides, below the water line & also has a dry storage space in the center, between the wells, also below the water line. The dry storage area would be buoyant and would help to offset the rear movement of the motor weight. The bottom of the bracket would taper up from the existing hull bottom. The boat in my driveway has a very soft deck that will be ripped up 100%. Since I need to get into it that far anyway, I’m thinking of also adding a long narrow fish box or two, below deck on the outside of the stringers. This would be for things like Wahoo, big Mahi & King Mackerel that just don’t fit in the original fish box up front.Compared with other 170 forum members, I've got one of the heaviest engines installed on a 170. Yamaha '98 115hp (376lb dry). I also have an above deck removable 13 gallon baitwell, located port stern. When I've got a full tank of fuel and the baitwell full of bait and water, I usually never need to trim up the engine after planing. This is because the stern is so heavy it raises the bow. Any more than 3/4 throttle and I'm porpoising. My point is, these classic 170's are very very very sensitive to weight in the rear. If you do a search here for members 170's that have added a bracket, or a jackplate with 6" or more setback, you'll discover most if not all have porpoising issues.I'm just spitballing here, so bear with me. This is all in good fun. If your talking about adding a bracket, which will weight X amount. Adding 2 bait wells, which weigh X amount. Along with setting the engine back X distance. So not only are you adding weight to stern, but you're also setting the engine weight back. The addition of flotation pods won't make a difference unless your talking about molding one seamless box onto the transom, from keel up to notch, beam to beam, and following the 12º dead rise, thereby making 17' more like 20'-22'. Once you're up on plane, if these pods aren't a flush running surface extension of the boat, then the flotation they provide will be zero...because they'll be out of the water. IMO, save yourself a ton of headache and possible heartbreak–if it doesn't work out–and get yourself a 22-2. I am thinking of adding to the back. Following the lines, keel and deadrise of the hull. If I could get my hands on a 22-2 that was not a basket case without engine for cheep I would have one sitting in my yard lol. I'm not talking of doing this right away but it is a plan. I am just getting ideas and feedback for right now. I think I've read every build thread and question on these 170's lol
If I could get my hands on a 22-2 that was not a basket case without engine for cheep I would have one sitting in my yard lol.
Quote from: minionsram on August 16, 2017, 07:41:02 PMMy end state is freeing up the space for fishing and having everything have its place. I understand the premise of using the foam filled pods to offset the addition of a bracket or jackplate. In theory it could work. But only by using some mathematical rocket science equation, using the additional length and weight of the pods, along with how much flotation you get by using X amount of foam.....you see where I'm going. You'd have to start with knowing where the hull COG is located. This in itself will be incredibly difficult. Then you'd have to know the change in COG distance aft the addition of the bracket/jackplate has caused. Then you'd have to know how much foam added to the pods gives X amount of floatation, which in turn will offset the COG X amount forward.Personally I'd stay away from installing a bracket on a 170. Primarily because, why? You'd have trouble finding a transom mounted bracket 6" or less anyway. But why install one? Jack plate, yeah this would be a helpful addition if you're one who consistently runs through shallow water. Otherwise, at moderate speed and appropriate trim your boat will run through 1 foot of water. Believe me, I've done it. And I'm not trying to be the buzz kill here with your idea of adding pods, this is just my opinion. Believe me, I'd love to see you do it because I'd love to learn the outcome lol. But I think you're setting yourself up for a lot of labor and expense for what will most likely not work out as you intend. So you gotta ask yourself, what's the reason I want to add pods and a bracket/jackplate? From reading your words I've quoted above, you just want to free up space aft of the console. Well what do you currently have back there that is taking up space? Cause you're considering adding weight on the transom to a boat that already sits ass heavy, just to free up space aft of console, with either a bracket or jackplate. Then add flotation pods to offset the aft weight. Boy o boy. I've added a few pics of my 170. You can see with the 1st pic there is nothing aft of console that could interfere with whatever. The 2nd picture is the leaning post I added (note where it's secured to deck, in relation to how forward from transom, using fuel panel as guide). The 3rd picture is the removable 13 gallon baitwell that I keep in the boat most of the year. Even when it's in the boat I still have plenty of room to move about behind leaning post. If you don't have as much room as I've described having in on my boat, it's possible your console is secured to deck too far aft.
My end state is freeing up the space for fishing and having everything have its place.
What's the setup of the 13 gallon removable livewell? Does it use the single thru hull pickup, or did you have to add an additional? I'm thinking one of these might fit really nicely on my 175 just fore of the engine, and I have a raw water washdown hose and thru hull that never get used.
