Getting ideas for my upcoming work on 170

[minionsram]

Well this is my first real post. Some information on the boat. 1987 AS 170. 1996 Evinrude 115 that the bro was bypassed by previous owner. Turning a 13*19 aluminum prop. The cavitation plate is about 3/4 to 1 inch below the bottom v of the boat. The motor is on the top most hole. With just myself a half tank of fuel and fishing gear I run 42mph according to the raymarine dragonfly 7. With 3 adults and gear I can get 36-37 mph at @5100 rpm. The two batteries are mounted under the console and I normally don't fill the livewell/cooler combo and use it for mainly dry storage. The boat has a few coats of bottom paint that is going to get removed because it never sits in the water over a camping trip amount of time  So now I have all the information I think y'all would need now to my ideas for the boat.

More storage. I am looking at getting some of the in-deck storage units from TH marine. Anyone used these and how they work?

My cooler seat is a sad unit. It was missing the cooler when I got it so I ratchet strap my igloo down to the frame and put the throwable cushion on top of that. I rarely sit down and was thinking of building a leaning post that has some storage. What ideas have y'all done for that?

I have read in the sight a heap about the scuppers issues on these boats. I know I have a heap of engine on the back of the boat. I normally just plug the scuppers from the inside until I need them to function lol. I was thinking of building some flotation pods as large as possible each side of the motor that follow the lines of the hill and then putting a small set back bracket on the motor. I read wh3re the Armstrong brackets are not advised for these boats due to the short length of them, causing issues with the center of gravity and running lines of the boat. I was thinking if I built some flotation pods to offset the distance of the motor set back I would be good. Anyone tried this yet?

I can't complain about this boat. I bought it for 1100 bucks, decarbed the motor, tuned it, cleaned carbs etc, rewired the bad wires and installed led nav, anchor and console lights and have been fishing the hell out of it with the wife. The galvanized trailer I hate bit it works for now lol. I fish the skinny shallows, the lake on big water and shallow. I run it up the rivers and plan to head to the coast to do some shrimping as soon as the season opens here in sc. If I could get the storage issue fixed I would be content for a bit with this ole AS boat. It's solid, only one slightly spongy area on floor, the foam doesn't seem to be waterlogged and the transom is solid. I do have some areas of gelcoat that is chipped and dinged and the crack at the back of transom that is the line of the top cap I am working on fixing. 

[RickK]

Welcome aboard - If there isn't pictures, it didn't happen 

[minionsram]

I'll see what I can do lol. Computer down and I have to edit some pics to fit the size requirements

[RickK]

If you can get to your gallery here on the site and upload them there, the gallery will size them automatically - follow the instructions here
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0

[boatnamesue]

My cooler seat is a sad unit. It was missing the cooler when I got it so I ratchet strap my igloo down to the frame and put the throwable cushion on top of that. I rarely sit down and was thinking of building a leaning post that has some storage. What ideas have y'all done for that?

As you've discovered already, storage space is limited on the 17'.  And any storage type box you install on deck takes up much needed deck space.  But you're on to a good idea.  After purchasing my 170, I installed a leaning post.  Directly under the seat of the leaning post and in between the 4 supporting legs, a standard size cooler (26" length) will slide under and out of the way.  I secure it to the leaning post with 2 small bungee's so it won't slide back while running.  If I didn't have this cooler I would not have "dry" storage.  So if you are intending to install a leaning post, get one with enough width and depth to accommodate a cooler.

I have read in the sight a heap about the scuppers issues on these boats. I know I have a heap of engine on the back of the boat. I normally just plug the scuppers from the inside until I need them to function lol. I was thinking of building some flotation pods as large as possible each side of the motor that follow the lines of the hill and then putting a small set back bracket on the motor. I read wh3re the Armstrong brackets are not advised for these boats due to the short length of them, causing issues with the center of gravity and running lines of the boat. I was thinking if I built some flotation pods to offset the distance of the motor set back I would be good. Anyone tried this yet?

The scuppers do seem to be an issue for many operators.  I've bolded your words above because in my opinion it's what you should do.  Unless you plan to leave your boat in the water for days, months at a time, I do not understand why so many have issues. 

I too have a 115hp on my 17', a yamaha 2 stroke that's about 50lbs heavier than your evinrude.  The scuppers are above the waterline with the boat idle and in calm seas.  But it makes no difference to me if they are above or below waterline because I simply plug the scuppers before launching boat.  There are only 2 instances when I would want to unplug the scuppers while at sea: I'm motoring through a torrential rain storm AND after using my cast net I rinse down the deck.  For the latter, after rinsing down deck I unplug scuppers and jump up on plane to empty deck, then re-plug. 

Now bare in mind, the earlier models (60's-70's) do not have the ability to pump water out of the bilge because originally they were manufactured without a bilge pump.  And the double-whammy of this scuppers conundrum is if you do leave them unplugged you will inevitably dump water into the bilge.  I believe the '87 model of yours has the removable starboard deck tray, where the wiring/hoses/etc. runs from engine to helm.  The forward junction of this tray and deck is open, allowing the fuel hose to duck under deck.  So whether your boating in calm or ruff seas, the boat will pitch.  With the scuppers open, water pours in but not all of it will dump back out.  Some water channels into the tray, and as the boat pitches to bow it dumps into the bilge.  This will become a serious problem because you have no way to empty the bilge (except to hand pump out via stern access hatch).  In a short amount of time the bilge will fill because water will accumulate quickly.  And you'll know this when you throttle up on plane because of the engines sluggish performance due to extra load laying in the bilge.   

Some owners have installed a bilge pump in the earlier model 17's (RickK), but this is usually done during a restoration project with the deck lifted.  If your model does have a bilge pump, then disregard all of the above, leave scuppers open/closed, doesn't matter cause you can pump water out.  If you don't have a bilge pump I recommend leaving scuppers plugged...because why would you need to leave them open if not for a specific purpose, as noted above. 

[Brendanpd28]

I only did a partial rebuild on my 1976 170. I went with a deck jnjection vs a full sole replacement. I did not like the idea of no bilge pump so I installed one with a built in automatic float switch. It was a little tricky but I managed to do so through the 4" pie plate at the transom. The key is to get a built in float unit so u don't have to install a separate float switch. With the 300 lb. 88 hp rude I have on her the scuppers dip below the waterline often. I installed the th marine ping pong ball scuppers and they work great. Had my boat on a mooring all last season with no issues. Good luck with ur aqua!

[boatnamesue]

I only did a partial rebuild on my 1976 170. I went with a deck jnjection vs a full sole replacement. I did not like the idea of no bilge pump so I installed one with a built in automatic float switch. It was a little tricky but I managed to do so through the 4" pie plate at the transom. The key is to get a built in float unit so u don't have to install a separate float switch. With the 300 lb. 88 hp rude I have on her the scuppers dip below the waterline often. I installed the th marine ping pong ball scuppers and they work great. Had my boat on a mooring all last season with no issues. Good luck with ur aqua!

Couldn't agree more with you, bold above.  But being that I have no reason to restore my deck I'm stuck without the overlooked luxury of an electric bilge pump.  I've read a lot of reviews for the TH Marine ball drains.  Sounds like they do work very well, unless anything other than water runs through them, such as sea grass.  This is the reason why I have not installed them on my boat.  I throw a cast net on grass flats.  After I've caught enough bait I wash down deck.  So I can imagine if I did have these ping pong ball scupper drains installed they would immediately become clogged.

[minionsram]

Thanks for the replies fellers. As far as the bilge goes. I have installed one. It's not on a float but on a switch. I tried the ping pong ball scuppers and they did not work for me. The scuppers with me in the boat at the helm and the cooler I have strapped down for a seat makes my scuppers sit right below the water line at rest. I've tried the flapper valves and the ball ones. I was thinking of trying the duck bill ones but I just leave it plugged until I need it. The other reason I was going to build the flotation pods was for two reasons. I could make them a dry storage also. Just don't want to spend the time building all this and it not work.

[minionsram]

Here is the boat lol
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15724&title=kimg0293&cat=500



Admin Edit: When you go to the picture in the gallery, if you look down the right side you'll see "Linked Image".  The code beside that is what you copy and paste into your post.  Your were very close.

[minionsram]

Well I had the wife drive the boat on plane on our last outing to the saluda river. Noticed the cavitation plate was burried in the water. So I raised the motor all the way to the top hole and started out again. The cav plate now rides right at the top of the water. I dont blow out the prop on wot and it cavitates just a small amount in hard turns. We ran it for an estimated 30-40 miles yesterday, up and down the river, stopping along the way to hit some fishing holes. I believe my carbs are in the need for a rebuilding though. I ordered a manual for the engine, the one I have is for an older jhonson evinrude. I have lost rpm  sense our last time out. At WOT im only getting 5000-5100 RPM. and loaded down I could only get about 36 MPH. Most of our running this weekend was around 3100-4100 and 25-30 mph to save fuel. Also when it sits at a fishing hole it is a pain in the butt to crank, unless I re-prime the bulb and when it kicks off a plume of smoke gets rid of any skeeters that are around. I think the carbs are gummed up and the needles are not seating all the way.
I had installed a new primer bulb but it seems to be loosing prime any how.

[boatnamesue]

Also when it sits at a fishing hole it is a pain in the butt to crank, unless I re-prime the bulb and when it kicks off a plume of smoke gets rid of any skeeters that are around. I think the carbs are gummed up and the needles are not seating all the way. I had installed a new primer bulb but it seems to be loosing prime any how.

If you haven't touched the carbs in a couple years I would definitely pull them out for a thorough clean, including making sure all jets are completely clear of debris.  You shouldn't need to re-prime the engine after your initial cold start.  Being that you are having to re-prime might be the initial signs of the fuel pump beginning to fail.  The pump has check valves that prevents back flow of fuel from carbs.  These check valves over time become worn and thus loose their effectiveness.  Might be time to replace the pump.

[minionsram]

Also when it sits at a fishing hole it is a pain in the butt to crank, unless I re-prime the bulb and when it kicks off a plume of smoke gets rid of any skeeters that are around. I think the carbs are gummed up and the needles are not seating all the way. I had installed a new primer bulb but it seems to be loosing prime any how.

If you haven't touched the carbs in a couple years I would definitely pull them out for a thorough clean, including making sure all jets are completely clear of debris.  You shouldn't need to re-prime the engine after your initial cold start.  Being that you are having to re-prime might be the initial signs of the fuel pump beginning to fail.  The pump has check valves that prevents back flow of fuel from carbs.  These check valves over time become worn and thus loose their effectiveness.  Might be time to replace the pump.

I probably should of told yall that I replaced the pump already. My bad. sense the previous owner bypassed the VRO and the previous pump was leaking a little and I was having this issue I converted the VRO to one of the old style pumps. Its new and I put a few new lines and clamps

[minionsram]

Well I rebuilt the carbs today, replaced all fuel lines and put on a new Johnson/Evinrude primer bulb on it. Gonna try it at the coast this coming weekend if the weather holds out for me and the wife. I am going to order a hatch to put in the floor in front of the console. Anyone know the open distance between the stringers up front? that would be helpful and keep me from doing some exploratory surgery lol

[Miguel]

Sorry to derail but, do you have a pic of your raymarine dragonfly intalled?

Are you happy with it?  I am looking into replacing my sounder and this one looks like a good deal.

[minionsram]

Sorry to derail but, do you have a pic of your raymarine dragonfly intalled?

Are you happy with it?  I am looking into replacing my sounder and this one looks like a good deal.

For the money the dragonfly 7 pro is a decent finder. I have the navonics gold charts with it and its decent. There are better but I have no major complaints about mine other than the joystick controls and not a touch screen. ill see if i can dig up a pic of it mounted for you