170 Live Well Options

[Brendanpd28]

Hey Guys,

              Anyone have any creative livewell ideas for a 170?  I have seen the transom mounted ones but I'd prefer not to go that route.  If I install my below deck fuel tank this year that will open up some space under my console.  I was thinking of maybe molding a fiberglass live well to recess down under the front console seat.  Obviously space is extremely limited on a 170 but it really stinks bringing in 5 Macks on a sabiki jig and having to throw 4 of them back. I've attached a few pics of my current setup.  Input very appreciated as always. Thanks!!

- Brendan

[Aswaff400]

Why not install a leaning post live well like what most of us Florida boys use.

[Brendanpd28]

Cause then I lose my cooler seat hahaha!! Theres really no room for a cooler anywhere.

[Brendanpd28]

I'm wondering if I could just turn my cooler seat into a livewell??  I could use it for both that way.  I just dont know how I would install the pump and where to pull the water from.  I don't think an aerator would suffice.

[Capt. Bob]

Some questions.

First, is it safe to assume you want to have an ice chest on board?
If yes, is it also safe to assume you want a seat at the helm?

If you answered yes to both, then what you have is the best option.
If you answered no to the ice chest(?) and yes to a seat, then the leaning/seat post with live well underneath is the best option.

Converting your cooler to a live well or installing the leaning post/live well will have the same plumbing concerns.

Live wells from the factory were often located in the console under the forward seat. Small, wet and messy, they too require plumbing so where does that leave you?

If you do not wish to get deep into plumbing, you will need to run both the fill and drain above deck. I'll look for a thread here because at least two members have done that. Of course it gets a little cluttered but is an easy install and removal when required.

When you say you don't wish to go transom mount, you mean the "boxes" mounted directly to the transom?

Do you have trim tabs?

How about a transom mounted swim platform(http://www.boatoutfitters.com/swim-platform-outboard-single-step-ladder-13770-51101?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=13770-28247&gclid=CjwKEAjwwOvABRC08aedoZ_lnTMSJACs_cbupPanvSUwhRHbq3YkmZHVkgI7gNyVWoh-gQTNEGN0lxoC-n7w_wcB)
with a small bait well (http://www.kodiakmarine.com/PDFs/PF-14.pdf) mounted on the platform (swing down ladder not installed).
Pros: easy plumbing, electrical not too bad. Can be removed and platform used as advertised, excellent access, clean.
Cons: Transom penetrations, heavy when in use and may cause listing underway if weight is not compensated for (trim tabs, crew/gear location), high on function but not so much on form (opinion really).

Personally I would not convert my cooler. I like my beer cold.

[wingtime]

I had a Kodiak 26 gallon livewell that I used on aft deck my 200XF.  I had the Rule transom mounted pump which has a quick release style mount.  I wired a plug onto the pump so I could just snap on the pump, plug it in and I had a live well when I wanted to go fishing.  bought it from a guy in FL called Imarine.  It appears the website is down so they are probably no more.  A 26 gallon might be a tad heavy for a 170 though.

[Brendanpd28]

Thanks for the input guys.  I think I am just going to scratch the livewell for now.  It would be nice but I have other priorities like the fuel tank.  I try to avoid adding below waterline thruhull fittings if possible.  If I decide to give it a go in the future I will be adding a livewell and a washdown pump from the same thruhull.  VERY limited space to run plumbing through the bilge is the main issue here. Just a note that I NEVER realized as well........thru hull fittings have straight threads and ball valves have tapered threads and really aren't compatable.  I have been told the proper way is to use an expensive Groco flanged adapter but I have seen it done with thruhulls and ball valves EVERYWHERE!  Anyone else heard about this?

Thanks again

[Capt. Bob]

Well this is the way I have known it to be. Straight and tapered threads seal differently and a proper seacock installation has straight threaded fittings between the thru hull and the valve.

That stated, I'm not sure what is termed as expensive as to opposed to what provides a proper degree of safety.

Here some light reading. Lexus install.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=8671.0

My setup.


Yes Marelon not bronze. Looked down on by some but it's been fully functional since installed 5 years ago. Thru hull threads are cut flush with the inside top of threaded valve (simple measurement during install) and valve is thru bolted to glassed in mounting block. Female threads on valve top (where 90 degree elbow is mounted) are tapered. Cost effective (not inexpensive) and is impervious to corrosion. Scheduled valve exercise is all that has been required to date.

Nice write up with pics.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

Good luck.

[Brendanpd28]

Wow that's a great write up!!!  Thanks Bob!!

[boatnamesue]

I have an above deck 23 gallon Aquaworld well.  You can see a photo of the well mounted on my deck here:  https://youtu.be/2IBbYogTu3c 

I've got a transom mounted Rule pump that feeds the tank.  The pump itself along with the outflow hose are removable.  So days when I'm not live baiting I'll remove the pump setup and also remove the tank from the deck.  I used some large diameter corrugated tubing for the bait well's overflow.  I have that long enough just to clear transom.  The well is secured to the deck using two eye screws glued into the deck, then i have clips that attach to the well. 

I too debated what to do about a baitwell when I bought my '76 170.  As a quick fix to keep live bait fishing I choose this option.  Eventually when I install a half tower I'll address installing a proper baitwell with below deck piping.  Although, looking at the below deck schematics, running plumbing down the center of hull aft of the fuel tank coffin will be a pain.

Good luck.

[Brendanpd28]

Thats a great setup!  I like that it is temporarily secured and you can remove it when not needed.  Thanks for the info!

[boatnamesue]

If you decide to install a similar setup be sure the tank has pre-drilled threads by the manufacturer.  Those tanks are made of a poly resin that doesn't take well to drill and screw.  1 or 2 holes at top of tank, same on bottom.  Then you just match up the eye hook thread diameter to the tanks.  I used SS tie downs like these:

http://www.safelandindustrial.com/app/stx.productdetail.asp?did=41#.WCksofA8KrU