1985 222 CCP - 85 Johnson 235 - First Boat

[Freshwaterlake]

Looking for my first family boat and I want a center console. I came across a 1985 222 CCP with a 1985 Johnson 235. Apparently, it was owned by a Red Sox pitcher who had 2 boats; Nonsense and No Nonsense. So the boat originated in Mass. and is down in freshwater land in Georgia now. It's been out of the water for a few years in covered storage. The entire boat looks original in the photos. I will make a trip and inspect it soon. I read the "buyers' bible" thread and noticed something was missing in the structural inspection: the stringers. From what I've learned, Aquasport was one of the first manufacturers to not employ wood in the stringers. Is this true for a 1985 222 CCP?  If so, should I worry about the stringers?  Also, what else should I look for in this year and model?  i.e. Fuel tank, hull, etc....  Thanks for all of your help.

[wingtime]

All Aquasports have foam filled stringers. However the decks gunwale caps and transom have wood since composite didn't exist then.

CCPs rarely have any problems with the stringers.

[Freshwaterlake]

Great!  Thank you very much for the knowledge. In your opinion, what would be a fair price for the 222 CCP I'm going to look at?

[Woodeneye]

I paid $5k 2 years ago for a 1981, Hull in excellent condition, average but serviceable trailer, Tee Top &  a Johnson 235 just like yours. Let me know if you need Johnson parts. I'm repowering mine and parting the motor out. Good luck.

[Capt. Bob]

I would tap the transom very thoroughly especially in the areas of penetration (motor mounts, lifting rings. drain and raw water pickup). Listen for the dreaded "dull" thud.

Deck area forward of coffin box (there should be a hatch in this area) for spongy feel.

Fuel tank cover deck plates should be removed and the "whiff test" done for gas smell and visual. Look closely at the tank coffin cover for missing screws and chalking. This is the main entry for water into the coffin. If the tank is original, you need to figure in replacement cost. The factory mounted these tanks with a foam strip under the tie downs. This foam collects moisture and over the years and causes the tank to corrode under these straps. You may not have a leak but should rough seas be encountered with a fairly full load of fuel, the tank may shift and the corrosion breaks free, resulting in a leak. Tank is 85 gal so figure about 1K (depending on location) for a new one. This does not include labor or replacement fuel lines (vent, fill, delivery) to install.

Good luck.

[heatherwood11]

I wound up buying this 1985 CCP 222 boat last week.  It appears to have been well-taken care of and a solid boat.  It sat up for a few years and I have a mechanic draining the gas and checking the motor.  Surprisingly, the 1985 235 Johnson had good compression on all cylinders.  I'm having him go through the carbs.  The prior owner never had the oil pump/reservoir replaced (and he had it about 14 years), so I'm just considering having it taken out and just pre-mixing my oil with the gas. 

I would love any feedback from anyone out there as to whether I should just leave it as-is or beginning to pre-mix.  Just worrying about the pump going out and burning up the motor.  There isn't a problem with the current pump, but it sounds like a new oil pump will run about $400 installed, which is more than I want to put into the original 1985 motor.  This is my first boat as well...been looking for something like this for a while.   

This forum is great.  Thank you to all who contribute and run this forum!

[Capt. Bob]

I'm an oil injection guy.

Light reading.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

Personally, I have had good luck with my older OMC engines and my old (current) Yamaha. They are not complicated devices and I'd bet there are way more engine failures due to overheating cause by lack of T-stat/water pump maintenance than oil injection pump failures.


Do a service on those components and change the lower unit oil and leave the VRO alone. You may wish to replace the filter element in the remote oil tank also. Moving forward, you now have a baseline for future preventative maintenance.

I'd be more concerned about the fuel tank and hoses.

Good luck.

[wingtime]

I'd clean the carbs and leave the VRO in place. To properly convert to premix you have to replace the VRO pump with a non VRO fuel pump. Also if you have a source for it run only non-ethanol fuel.

[heatherwood11]

Thank you all for your posts.  I will let you know what I do and how it works out.  It makes sense that a different pump would be needed if I premix.  I'm generally a fan that if it isn't broke, don't fix it.  If this motor has run for 31 years without a problem with this technology, why not leave it as-is (with replacing filters, etc...).  Thanks again everyone!

[Woodeneye]

What they said. I'd leave it and clean the carbs. Mine has worked flawlessly.

[GoneFission]

Really the only downside to a good-running 235 is fuel economy - they are thirsty!  But you can run a lot of gas through for the price of a new engine!   

Congrats on the new boat - I think you will like her more and more as you get her out on the water!   

[Woodeneye]

Really the only downside to a good-running 235 is fuel economy - they are thirsty!  But you can run a lot of gas through for the price of a new engine!   

Congrats on the new boat - I think you will like her more and more as you get her out on the water!   

And they smoke something fierce...

[heatherwood11]

OK, Rehab mostly complete.  At our fish camp I was told I bought a Two Thirsty Five...they loved the boat.  Not sure if it is because of how much gas I now buy from them or because they really liked it...LOL.  Had the steering helm replaced, throttle cables replaced, decals taken off, carbs cleaned, 75 gallons of gas drained out.  I converted it to premix and it runs great.  It seems to run better the more I drive it...at first was not running well at lower speeds while docking it, but once it has run for a while I have no problem with this.  To crank it, you have to throttle down while in neutral and back off once it cranks.  I wish they put the ignition switch in a different place...keep bumping into it and have broken a couple of keys already.  Had the fusebox replaced (the old black fuse casing springs wore out).