Ocean Runner wont start

[kingfisher24]

Haven't been able to enjoy my 95' EX225 recently due to some recent engine woes - it won't start.  Bought last year with 600h on original Ocean Runner 200; primer solenoid doesn't activate from key switch so I prime manually.  Fresh plugs in March, new fuel-water separator in May and ran fine until few weeks ago.  First symptom was not starting in the water after starting up right away on the trailer with ear muffs.  Pulled batteries for load testing and they're fine.  Replaced in line fuel filter.  Now, it won't even start out of water.  Compression is 90-100 on 5 of 6 cyl; 70-75 on the upper port cyl.  Slow fuel drip from carbs when I manually prime so fuel is at least getting that far.  Some plugs are wet and others not so when I pull em after failed starting attempts.  Last week, put it on the CDI spark tester and saw spark on 4 of 6 cyl; when I plug swapped wires, isolated at least one cylinder that is not firing (lower port).  So I have new plug wires and 2 coils on order, as well as the solenoid red switch to see if these cheap fixes work.  I'd hate to pull the carbs in case I'm missing something really easy/minor.

Thanks for any suggestions.

   

[wingtime]

Try swapping the coils to see if the problem follows... or swap the coil wires if you have the spark tester. Sounds like it could be the power pack. I put a CDI power pack on mine a few years ago runs great. That low cylinder is a concern. Also when we're the carbs cleaned last?

Here is a video of mine.

[kingfisher24]

Thanks, wingtime.  I bought the spark tester after seeing your vid. Will do the coil troubleshooting this w/e after new plug wires come in (ones on now look original).  By coil wires, are you referring to the wires between the power pack and the coils?  They're looking pretty original/grungy as well.  Not sure when carbs were cleaned last so that's my next project after ignition.  I'm hoping the 1 cyl is just gunked up.       

[RickK]

That is a slick tester - hopefully I won't need one but if I do, that's the one I'll get.

[wingtime]

Yes I'm referring to the wires that feed the coils from the power pack.

I'd clean the carbs for sure. A lean carb will burn up a cylinder in no time.

[kingfisher24]

Replaced plug wires and lower port coil that tested bad last week.  Inspected coil leads - no obvious issues.  Crank motor but no luck.  Hooked up spark tester and wtf??. now only 2 cyl sparking, this time, upp/mid port.  It was pretty bright outside though, so even those were hard to see.  Ignition switch comes loose, so off comes housing to inspect ignition and kill switch connections and wires.  They look fine, so remount, turn key and motor starts! Coughs, spits for about 10 sec. Couldn't get it refired, then started messing with idle timing screw, the one that points fore in front of flywheel.  First all the way in in 2-3 turn increments, then back out..no luck.  I had messed with it after issue first arose, but like an idiot I don't remember where it should be.  Had to pack up and leave for the day.

Read somewhere that in is leaner, out is richer and that the arm behind it should have little/no play.  Does anyone know what the home position should be?

       

[fitz73222]

Idle timing has nothing to do with rich or lean, it has to do with advance of retard of spark timing which controls idle speed. Your engine has non adjustable low speed mixture orifices. You will need a timing light to re-establish the correct idle timing but that has nothing to do with your current issue. Try this simple test, disconnect the harness plug in the engine, the connects the engine internal harness to the external harness coming from your keyswitch. Take all of the spark plugs out and connect the wires to your spark tester. Now pull the engine over with a rope wrapped around the groove in the flywheel or jump the starter from a battery and jumper cables and see if the spark comes back to all 6 cylinders. What you are doing here is isolating the engine from the external harness and keyswitch. If you get spark to return your keyswitch or connecting wiring is bad and trying to short to ground.

[kingfisher24]

thanks for the tip, Fitz.  I'm wondering the same with a short somewhere in the ignition cabling. 

[wingtime]

That's great advice Fitz. I have a test keyswitch set that I use for tests like this. It also saves me from having to climb in and out of the boat to crank it for tests

[kingfisher24]

well it took me all summer to finally get motor to fire up  All new plug wires and coils.  Inspected, cleaned and re-tightened all motor wire external connections, and also ignition switch.  Batteries on charger reading > 13V.  Rebuilt carbs but two needle valve seats were plastered in so left em as is (well I did strip one!).

Motor fired up on the hose.  Coughed, sputtered, died the first couple tries. Sprayed OMC enginer tuner through the butterflies, while running, and let sit overnight.  Came back next day, and fired her up - no stalling, but there is a definite "cough and spit" every second or so. Isn't audible or noticeable in gear and at higher revs, but haven't put it in the water or under load.  Will re-check compression, what else should I be checking?         

[wingtime]

That could be a lean sneeze. Or you have reed valve issues

[kingfisher24]

Back on the water and running like new, only took me 6 months!  Took it out for a spin after replacing carb side plate gaskets (eBay kits gave me the wrong ones... ) and another decarb cycle w/OMC engine tuner (yes, new plugs afterward).  Had to mess with the idle timing screw (5 turns further out) to keep it from dying at idle.  Crossing my fingers 2017 will be trouble free!