Bringing back the shine to faded Gelcoat

[Unclebob]

Anyone have any tips on ways to bring back the shine to dull, chalky gelcoat?

I have used 3M Fiberglass Restorer and Polish on other boats before, but their hulls weren't in quite as bad of shape as my 18'Cuddy. Plus, it was extremely time consuming, even with an orbital buffer.

Is there a better way? I have a variable speed (fast and super fast) buffer/sander. Painting is not TOTALLY out of the question as I have a decent HVLP and a big enough shop, but I'd rather bring back the shine if possible.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

[Wilson]

I think buffing is your best option.  It will take less time than filling all the holes, fairing, and taping then painting.

[JimCt]

Try buffing with white toothpaste.  It's got a mild abrasive in it and poses little danger of burning through what's left of your gelcoat.  Automotive buffing compound will work too but with a buffing wheel it might be too aggressive.

 Sounds dumb, but it worked for an old chalked-out Whaler I had.  After trying the paste, if you decide to paint after all, it doesn't leave any wax or silicone behind.  After the toothpaste and if you finally decide not to paint, do 2-3 wax jobs to seal the surface.  Good wax will have a UV blocker in it to help protect what's left of the gelcoat.  Unless the gelcoat is really pitted (common up here in Northeast from acid rain) you should be able to get the shine back.   If you can, post some before / after shots.

[Anonymous]

Unclebob,  Forgot to ask: Have you had her in for a ride yet?

[JimCt]

OOPS!  This laptop keeps loggin me out... That was me asking 'bout the test ride.

[Unclebob]

Haven't taken it for a ride yet. Getting new batteries tomorrow, and the tank gets cleaned and re-installed this weekend. Still need to replace the control cables, sort the wiring, replace the water seperator, etc etc.  I expect to put it in the water in a week or two, if all goes well.

The Gel-Coat isn't pitted at all, just faded. Toothpaste? Mint or Extra Whitening?   I'll give it a shot!  I've also got some automotive buffing compound (medium and course), and whats left of my fiberglass restorer. I'd be happy to post some before/after pics.

[JimCt]

Oh yea, I forgot to mention Fixodent's superb for holding loose bits & pieces together too...

I'm off this weekend to look at two AS's.  Ones a 19' or 20' called a family fisherman.  I think it's the same config. you've got with the windshield etc. Don't know what year.  The other is an early 70's 22' likely in need of rehab.  We'll see.  Now that I've spent some time looking at the projects some of the others on the site have been doing at least I'll have some idea as to what I'm getting into.

[JimCt]

What progress?  Been out yet?  Send pix!

[Unclebob]

Was going to take it out this weekend, but I've got a stuck float on my bottom carb. Gas seeping from the overflow vent.  Rapping on it with a hammer didn't free it up, so I guess I have to pull the carb off this week. Of course, it's the toughest one to get to.   Wonder if I can just take the bowl off, or if it would be just as easy to pull the whole carb.   There's only about an inch between the bottom of the carb and the cowl. DT115 Suzuki.

I did get my fuel tank cleaned and put back in, but the new sender and gauge I installed don't work. The new sender/gauge set was in the cuddy when I brought it home, but the instructions weren't legible. There's a center post on the sender, and a ground. The gauge has 3 connections, marked G, I, and S. I assumed S went to the 'Sender' center post, G was 'Ground' and I was 'Ignition'. The gauge does nothing when I turn the ignition on. Did I wire it correctly? Is there a way to test? If so, do marine senders use generic resistance values, if I need to replace it?


I added a depthfinder, cleaned up some of the wiring, replaced a couple switches, control cables, fuel filter, and hit all the teak with some oil. I took some updated pictures and I'll try and post them tonight.

[Wilson]

Sounds like you're moving along Bob.  Those setbacks are always a pain.

[JimCt]

I know nothing about cab problems/repairs.  I'm sure sombody will post some info to help you out.  I'd think G, I & S mean ground, instrument (as in light) and sender.  If that doesn't work maybe a bad sender or a bad gauge.  Also, if you've got fuel in the tank, be sure power is off before making connections to the sender.  Possibility of  :!:  :!:  :!: BOOM :!:  :!:  :!: .

[Unclebob]

I know nothing about cab problems/repairs.  I'm sure sombody will post some info to help you out.  I'd think G, I & S mean ground, instrument (as in light) and sender.  If that doesn't work maybe a bad sender or a bad gauge.  Also, if you've got fuel in the tank, be sure power is off before making connections to the sender.  Possibility of  :!:  :!:  :!: BOOM :!:  :!:  :!: .

The gauge itself has seperate backlight wires, white and black. I haven't hooked up the backlight (white) yet, as I need to replace my running lights switch.

Also, I didn't thing the sender wire was 12V? I thought that the gauge measured a resistance value between the center sender post and ground, and that resistance value translated into needle movement?

Anyone know of some simple troubleshooting tests to verify if the problem is with the gauge or the sender? Like grounding the sender wire on the tank to see if gauge pegs at full? Or pulling the sender and checking for resistance value when I move the float? Now JimCT has got me paranoid I'm gonna blow myself sky-high.  

[JimCt]

Not to worry.  As long as you've got a healthy god-fearin' respect for gas + sparks, you'll do fine.

Your troubleshooting plan should work fine.  At least you'll know if the gauge and sender are any good.

[Radioshop]

I went through gas gauge troubleshooting on my neighbor's Angler this weekend.  I learned a thing or two.  There seems to be two impeadence ranges for gas gauges.  One is 30-240 Ohms and, I can't remember what the other is.  His guage did not indicate range it was, but we knew what the sender was.  If your gauge doesn't match the sender, it's going to be screwy.  

The neighbor's was acting screwy (always full), so I pulled the sender out to perform some manual tests.  As it turned out, I was able to get it to work with the sender on deck.  Once I put the sender back into the tank it didn't work.   We cleaned the guage terminals and tightened them down, nothing.  The only thing that changed between in tank and, on deck testing was the wire got moved.  So I put new butt splices on the sender feed wire (at the sender) and, it started working normally.  

It's important to note, if the guage shows full all the time, there's a short.  Either the feed wire to the sender is shorted or, the sender itself is shorted.  If it's always empty, then you have an open somewhere.  You might want to run some speaker wire, for testing only, from the sender directly to the back of the guage.  If it works, then you know the problem isn't the guage or, sender.  Also make sure you've got a ground in there somewhere.  Lots of things we think are grounds really aren't.

[Unclebob]

Thanks guys.

I know my sender wire is good, because I had to run it myself and I tested for good continuity after I put the ends on it.

The gauge and sender were a matched set. I know my grounds are good because I cleaned and tested all grounds, and all ground connectors are new. Cleaning the grounds were of utmost importance, as initial electrical troubleshooting was showing an 8V drop at the fuseblock on all terminals! Cleaning the fuse holders with sandpaper took care of that.