Attention: Have 2 pages to see today

Author Topic: Bow diving down at full speed or over plaining. Did extensive stringer work and  (Read 1404 times)

May 05, 2016, 08:57:31 AM
Read 1404 times

RSZELC

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 7
bow diving down at full speed on 75' 22-2. Did extensive stringer work and wondering if bottom sprung a little during repair. Put full stern in with porta bracket and at 38 mph bow starts to over plane. Is this typical of this boat or not?

May 05, 2016, 10:08:15 AM
Reply #1

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11278
I don't have a 222 and those that do will be by shortly but you might have a "hook" in the bottom of your hull near the transom. You can check by laying a 6' straight edge along the bottom from transom going forward and see how much space there is between the straight edge and the hull.

Also, do you have the bait boxes on the rear of your transom?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 05, 2016, 01:30:47 PM
Reply #2

fitz73222

  • Information Offline
  • Mechanical Master
  • Posts: 1957
    • http://www.hudson-technologies.com/.
Something is wrong. I've driven a number of 70's 22-2 12 degree V's including my '73 with bait boxes and the opposite is typically true, they tend to run bow high and are difficult to get the bow down without extreme trim in on the engine(s). I suspect the hull has a hook and the straight edge will tell the story.
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

May 05, 2016, 02:24:27 PM
Reply #3

love2fish

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 638
as Fitz said, my 74- 22-2 rides with the bow up a little- it's stock with the addition of a tower and livewell, but it rode that way when it was in its original form as well.
- maybe some other details of your rebuild could come in handy also, you mentioned you did extensive stringer work, did you move anything forward: gas tank, add a freshwater tank, move your center console, or anything else that could have moved your center of gravity too forward?

is it only when you are at 38mph? that is towards the upper window of the MPH range for these hulls as far as I know. most top out around the mid/upper 40's.
- are your trim, trim tabs, and porta bracket working properly? make sure your trim fluid is full and the motor isn't forcing it's self all the motor into a zero trim position which would bury the bow.
Chris
\'74 22-2
Member #921

May 05, 2016, 04:55:18 PM
Reply #4

akbridge

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 260
You have a hook in the hull of your boat.  I had a skiff with the same issue.  I bet when the stringers got worked on, the stern was not supported and sagged into their current state.  I played with everything I could think of to fix it.  No bandaids worked.  I would do what Rick said and lay a straight edge on the underside of the hull and see if you have a gap.  A 1/4" hook would cause what you describe to a T.  The only methods I know of to get rid of it would be to fill the dip on the under side of the hull or cut the stringers are loose and push the hull down.  Either method will suck!  Sorry.  Take some pictures of the stern of the boat looking down the keel.  Maybe we can figure something out.

May 05, 2016, 07:17:51 PM
Reply #5

Woodeneye

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 264
I had a skiff with that kind of hollow in the bottom. If indeed thats what it is. The skiff would constantly want to nose dive. There was nothing for it than to fill the hollow with Epoxy & microballons, fair and repaint. Wasn't a massive deal but a PITA. Problem solved immediately. Not a significant amount of weight added to the boat either. Maybe 10lbs. Hydrodynamics is a bit@h sometimes.
*SOLD*1981 222 CCP, Westport, MA.

May 06, 2016, 08:02:16 AM
Reply #6

RSZELC

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 7
Thanks guys for the quick response. I suspected hook in the bottom and already have put a straight edge on the bottom and yes there's a reverse rocker there. Didn't know if it was there before I cut boat apart or if that was the problem. Wanted to hear it from another source beside the voice in my head. The pictures I am trying to put up show when that probably happened. I will get pics on here later today when qualified computer personnel is available(wife,son). Big question is who knows if it's supposed to be dead flat or positive rocker? Aside from having 6' straight edge in truck and roaming marinas I don't know how else to find out. Boat has Suzuki 175 with 15-1/4x19 -3blade turning 6300 wide open if any body knows if that's in the ballpark of correct. Hull is very beefy now. I pulled all foam out of hull, cut stringer tops off and took foam out of there,ground inside of boxes and double fab matted inside of boxes. Laminated 2, 3/4"marine plywood strips together and encased them in 1-1/2 chop. Glassed new tops on to stringer boxes and 1-1/2 chop then 18oz woven and 1-1/2cop wet on wet the whole inside of the hull. Then 3in pvc pipe down center. Very solid now. Back there where the hook is in the hull I had ground very thin to clean up the mess the aquasport factory made and that's when it probably sprung. Thanks again for any input. Pics to follow

May 06, 2016, 08:20:17 AM
Reply #7

CLM65

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 1394
Based on all the discussions on this forum, I believe you want to make it flat.  I have not heard of anyone doing otherwise.  I made mine flat, but I'm still working on it so I can't tell you how it rides.
Craig

2002 205 Osprey, 200 HP Yamaha OX66


1967 22-2 Flatback (Rebuild in progress)

May 06, 2016, 11:37:31 AM
Reply #8

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11278
Use this short tutorial to upload and display pics in your topics
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 06, 2016, 01:16:05 PM
Reply #9

orb

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 96
The hull should not have either a hook or a rocker, it should be flat. Both present issues, and your description of how your boat is running does sound like it has a hook. That is like running with trim tabs permanently pushed down, forcing the bow down all the time.  As mentioned, you should be able to put a straight edge, like a 6' level, along the bottom of the hull at the transom.  To fix it, grind area with a grinder and use epoxy resin to fill in the hook as Woodeneye commented. Epoxy will stick to the hull much, much better than any polyester or vinylester.  You can thicken epoxy resins with additives to make it thick like bondo. I would probably mix in some fiberglass strands, like matt.
70\'s  240 seahunter(rebuilding now)
Photogallery-
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... &protype=1

\'77 22-2 (rebuild on hold)
1997 19\' sundance 70 merc

May 06, 2016, 05:20:56 PM
Reply #10

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11278
I had a hook in mine also - this is how I took care of it.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg130383#msg130383
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

May 06, 2016, 10:14:07 PM
Reply #11

Woodeneye

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 264
It shouldn't require anything other than micro balloons in the epoxy mix. Any sort of milled fibre in it will likely make it a bear to sand. Provided the surface is prepared properly, i.e.. sanded back to gel coat, it will stick just fine and not go anywhere. This is of course assuming the hollow is 1/4" or so. Much more then that & you will have to consider beefing up the fill with fibre for the majority of the hollow and finishing up with a easily sanded microballon epoxy scree. I concur with the other comments, it should be a straight run back there. Dead straight.




*SOLD*1981 222 CCP, Westport, MA.

May 07, 2016, 07:03:32 AM
Reply #12

RSZELC

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 7
Ok, thank you very much for the input. I can't say I would have considered not fiberglassing over top of the fill. And if for no other reason then the fun of glassing upside down, I live for those moments. I'll have to check how deep the hook is to make a decision on how and what I'll use. Just got done grinding the rotten core out of the underside of the bow cap and re glassing that and not to mention glassing the spray rails to the boat. I just can't wait to dive into this.   Maybe the hook is why the boat rides so nice. Do I really need to go 40mph.  I would love to here from someone on prop size to top rpm. I had some critics tell me I was making the boat to heavy. But full 50 gal. Gas tank, full 35 gal livewell , 3 people and a cooler with ice and I'm getting just short of 40mph I don't feel I screwed the boat up

May 07, 2016, 08:45:16 PM
Reply #13

jjsnjax

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 11
Glassing spray rails on?  Please tell me more.  I just got some Barbour rails but was planning on attaching them with screws and 5200.

May 08, 2016, 06:21:46 AM
Reply #14

RSZELC

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 7
My spray rails were bolted on by a outfit (that doesn't have any pride in their work)in Tampa. They weren't bedded in 5200. Just bolted on and 5200 around the perimeter. There were gaps for water to get behind and I wasn't going to be able to get the paint rite. It seemed like too much water pressure there and the paint was always going to crack in the cove. I put 3 layers 1-1/2 chop in the cove top and bottom and fine woven cloth over the whole thing to seal the edge in and help with the fairing. I painted the boat with awgrip and didn't want that to be a problem area. Fair amount of work but their trouble free now.(I hope)

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal