New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[mshugg]

I installed the bait well pick up and seacock along with the through hull transducer. The bilge pumps are in and the hoses are cut.  I just need to pick up some hose clamps to finish the hose runs.









The fuel system is plumbed out as well with a big loop to prevent water getting into the vent line and an SS fuel/water separator.







I had a black acrylic panel made to dress up and reduce glare on my instrument panel.  I've got it glued in with 5200 and some 5 minute epoxy to hold things together until the 5200 sets.


 

[Capt. Bob]

Lookin' good.
Bilge pump float switches....type and manufacturer.

 

[mshugg]

Lookin' good.
Bilge pump float switches....type and manufacturer.

 

They’re from Ultra Safety Systems, and quite robust.  Everyone who uses them says they’re as close to a lifetime switch as you’ll find.

https://www.ultratef-gel.com/ultra-pump-switches/

[mshugg]

I got my electronics mounted in my instrument panel, 2) 7" Lowrance displays, auto pilot control head, Fusion stereo, Standard Horizon VHF.  The switch panel came from New Wire Marine. My helm pump and shifter are mounted too. Tomorrow, I plan to install the engine rigging tube, so I can get measurements and order battery cables, shift cables and hydraulic hoses.

[theFunsmith]

That looks so damn good.

[mshugg]

The neighbors were getting ready to take out their pitchforks and torches, so I needed to catch up on some yard work over the weekend.  I just managed to tackle a couple of smaller projects.  I installed some TH rod holders as tubes to allow rod tips to extend through my aft bulkhead.  My 6' standup rods just extend into the tubes; my 5'9" rods don't need them, and 7' spinners should be perfect.







My plan to use thicker core in high stress areas like for cleats and rod holders was nearly perfect.  It's fine for my 8" forward cleats, and my rod holders, but my 6" aft and springlike cleats were limited to 1" thickness.  My 3/4" core and glass gunwales were just a bit over.  I needed to cut a recess in the underside, and I didn't want to do any more glass work.  I used a hole saw to drill out the skin.  My usual trick of mounting 2 hole saws on a single arbor wouldn't work, because the two hole saws use different size arbors.  I made a jig to center the larger hole saw.  All this is pretty standard, but I thought I'd include photos.







Things got a bit more interesting near my fuel chase.  There wasn't enough room to drill from underneath, so I needed something different.  For drilling rod holders, I replaced the pilot bit in a hole saw with an electricians bit.  I considered just chucking the drill end, but though better of it.  I replaced the bit with a piece of 1/4" rod, chucked it in reverse, and running the drill in reverse, I managed to cut the recess from above.  I've never seen this trick before (doesn't mean someone else hasn't done it), so I thought I'd share.





Here are the recesses with a cleat installed.  I use glass, washers made from the cut outs, to back up the nuts and washers.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Nice work! That yardwork is never ending this time of year.

[mshugg]

Working around the rain has added an additional challenge, but I'm still making progress.  The hatch covers are installed.  I went with a pair of compression latches for the bilge access and the hatch under the coffin, so that I can completely remove the hatches for ease of access.  The compression latches form a good seal against the seals on the hatches.  The hatch for the bow storage has traditional hinges and latch.  It is the largest accessible storage, so quick access was highest priority.  At over 5' long and insulated, there's still a chance I could use it for fish too.





The rigging tube and Hydraulic hoses are in.  I'm still waiting for a part so I can install my shift cables.



I was going to use the Gemlux Stainless Steel Scupper Flaps, but with my scuppers so far outboard, they didn't fit well.  I went with some scupper flaps from Sea-Block.  To my eye, they look like knock offs of the flaps from TH, with one key difference.  They sell a 12 degree wedge kit, so the flaps hang closed.  Everything seems to be well made out of fiber reenforced plastic.  The only problem was, the wedges don't provide a surface for the flaps to seal on.  They just have small 45  degree gussets that stop the door from swinging in.





I decided to use PVC board to make wedges in order to fill in the opening and create a better seal.  Once you cut the PVC, it leaves a porous surface that would get dirty fast, so, I used PVC tube to line the holes, and made finished fiberglass plates to provide nonporous surfaces.











The console forest panel is finished and installed.  I'm waiting to caulk it, so that it can be removed if necessary for engine rigging.



The Hull ID# is installed on the transom and a second hidden location.  She's becoming a boat again.



Time for a test float.  She floats well. With no motor, the chines at the stern are out of the water by about a half inch.  It's nice to see her on the water.  I hope to finish the plumbing and electrical this week, and get the motor hung next week.









I've been tortureing my baby sister (all grown now) playing Lyle Lovett's "If I had a boat" at family gatherings, so she wanted to make sure I had a pony for my boat.  The CCP  has a mascot.  I'm secure enough in my masculinity to have a pink pega-pony-corn on my boat.

[RickK]

Looks really good Michael - great ingenuity on the scuppers.

[jdupree]

Really nice

[theFunsmith]

Too bad about the gemlux units not fitting, looks you got it licked though. Very much look forward to seeing it powered. She is beautiful.

[Capt. Bob]

Hot Damn!


I often dreamed of closing in my CCP. Had the bracket, just never the gumption. I've lived vicariously through this rebuild. Seems I do that with all the rebuilds, and we have a number going on right now that are making this Forum proud.


Thanks to everyone for participating but I'm still bias toward the ol' CCP.

[Fish Head]

Wow!! Not to shabby for your first rebuild!! Lol
More like your your 20th rebuild I bet.
You got some mad boat building skills aay!
When are you opening your own shop?
If the fishing gets slow you can just sit back and relax and admire all your hard work.
Awesome!

[mshugg]

Thank you gentlemen.  It’s good to be close.

Capt. Bob, be careful.  That living vicariously thing is a gateway drug.  One minute you’re scanning rebuild threads, and the next, you’re sawing on a boat.

Fish Head, you were closer with first.  Actually, this is my second.  My first rebuild was an old Malibu 14 rolled edge skiff.  I redid the transom, reenforced the floor, foamed in some flotation and slapped a coat of enamel on it.  Of course, I’ve been building things my whole life and did build a stitch and glue kayak from plans.  I guess my point is rebuilding a boat is within reach, especially with resources like Classic Aquasport.

[mshugg]

I've been knocking out the rigging on the CCP.  All of the rod holders are mounted.  Almost all of them are through bolted with stainless backing plate, all that will be used for trolling anyway.  Four of the forward rod holders did not have room for backing plates, so they're secured with 1 through bolt with fender washer and screws.







The trim tabs are mounted and wired.  I went with 12 x 12 Bolts, and needed to go with the low profile in order too fit them under the platform.



The live well is plumbed with bronze seacocks for both the fill and overflow.

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All of the electrical loads (essential ones anyway)  are pulled to the console and wired.  I tried to keep everything organized and labeled so chasing down a problem won't be an issue.  I will still need to add my raw water wash down, AM/FM/Bluetooth Radio, and Autopilot after engine is rigged.







And since the wiring is complete here are the obligatory lighting shots.  Everything is LED.  No color changing or anything like that, though, just boring white.