New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[mshugg]

Plan is for the tubes to pass through a bulkhead at the rear and be tabbed at the front.  Then the flotation foam will make everything solid.  This boat will be a Spartan fishing machine, so no T top.  Hats all around for shade.  The gussets are 2 x 2" Divinycel epoxied together and wrapped in 2x 1708. 

[RickK]

Make sure you do a dry run with the engine control cables to make sure they can get through the bends.

[mshugg]

It always takes longer than you think.  I spent the day glassing in my stem backing block and prepping the stringers for tabbing in the risers.  After hours of grinding decided that the tabbing will need to wait for next week.

The stem is glassed in with 3 layers of 1708 next to hull, bedding compound then 3 more layers to encapsulate the core.

[mshugg]

Make sure you do a dry run with the engine control cables to make sure they can get through the bends.

Yeah, will need to order cables.  The cables with the transom mounted outboard were 16 feet long.  Anybody know how much to add for the bracket?

[Blue Agave]

Are the chases in the same place?  Will the console be in the same place?  How big of a rigging bend did the previous cables have? If you answer yes to the first two questions I would think that that 2-3 feet longer should do it. For what it was worth mine are 17 footers but my boat is not a CCP. I recommend UFLEX Mach series cables.

[mshugg]

With high expectations of rain, I decided not to break out the epoxy today.  Instead, I took on the far more relaxing task of templating and cutting the bulkheads.  The bulkheads will create the tank compartment, a small compartment under the coffin box and a forward insulated compartment that could serve as an ice hold, but will more likely be used for cast nets, buckets etc. There are also smaller bulkheads in the aft sides that will separate the flotation foam from wet areas creating sealed compartments.

[RickK]

Nice work! I see the bulkhead material is marked as being from Sweden, Lars' home. Lars did you use any of this stuff on your rebuild?

[mshugg]

It's H-130 Divinycell that I got at a great price.  I'm assuming that If H-80 Divinycell is 5LB, then H-130 would be about 8LB.  I don't know anything about the Sweden connection.

[mshugg]

I did it!  I've been going back and forth with myself on cutting the liner to go to a cap and hull build.  Some on this board advised against it.  In the end, I decided that the benefits outweigh the risks.  Plus: My boat/my rules.  I think that in the end this will be a good route to a stiffer and stronger boat. 

I understand that a liner is part of the structure of the original boat, but I plan to add longitudinal stiffeners in the form of 3/4" x 4" stringers and transverse stiffeners.  Plus the deck will extend all the way to the hull side which will add stiffness as well.  Additionally, this will allow me to through-bolt the hull deck joint, and glass the inside of the seam.  All in all, I think the result will be stiffer and stronger than liner constriction, especially since Aquasports aren't foam filled.  At least mine wasn't the foam in the sides didn't extend forward past the rod tubes.  In the end, I should get the fishability of a three piece boat out of my CCP.

Anyway, I've crossed the Rubicon.





I'm confident I can make it strong.  My only real concern is that , since the CCP cap rises so high above the hull/deck seam, I'll need to invest some thought and work into making the Hull deck seam look right from the inside.



So stay tuned.  I hope it turns out just as I envision  or you may just have a front row seat for a spectacular failure 

On a side note, I discovered a really helpful tool, and I had it in my collection all along. Its an oscillating multi-tool.  I bought one a few years ago as a corner sanding tool, for a non-boat project.  It came with a saw blade and a scraper blade, but I didn't take them seriously.  After all, it's a sander? right?  Anyway, after seeing the tool mentioned on another board, I decided to give it a try.  It won't replace an angle grinder, but it cuts through glass and wood, and it doesn't make as much dust.  You just have to let the tool cut at its own pace, but that's true for just about any tool. In the picture below, I used the tool to cut all the way around the glass encapsulating the bow deck.  Then, I just pried the whole piece of wet wood up.

[scoflaw]

Just out of curiosity... have you owned this boat previously or ridden in one of these much? What is your plan of use ?

I own 1 of these and I would have to say it has limited use to say the least.  Like I said . just curious. But your doing 1 hell of a job.

[mshugg]

Just out of curiosity... have you owned this boat previously or ridden in one of these much? What is your plan of use ?

I own 1 of these and I would have to say it has limited use to say the least.  Like I said . just curious. But your doing 1 hell of a job.

Not sure what you mean Scoflaw.  I've owned a 17 Aquasport, and a range of others, 20 Hydrasports,  25 Proline, 20 McKee. The dimensions of the CCP tell me that it should perform just fine for nearshore/offshore use.  20'2" x 7'10".  19 degree dead rise. Yes, it's a 20 foot boat, and that carries some limitations.  I find 20 foot to be the ideal length.  It's small enough to manage by myself, trailer with my 4 Runner and store in my yard.  And, it's big enough to fish offshore on the right days.  I've put a lot of sailfish, dolphin and wahoo on the decks of my other 20 footers.

Please tell me what you mean by limited use.  Isn't every boat of limited use?  You can't put a battleship in a lake, and you shouldn't take a John boat to sea. If you know something unique about the CCP, please share.  Otherwise, I plan on catching a hell of a lot of fish between 8a reef/ pelican flats and the cones off Port Canaveral.

[scoflaw]

OK, if your a small boat guy that's fishing in small boat waters , that's great news. I own 1 of those in Cape Coral Fl.  Decent for the area, wet ride, dangerous in 3 footers and much smaller than what I'm used to up North. Where I boat in Ma. that boat would sink on an average afternoon.  We have a lot of shoals and rips here that stand up like a wall and churn like a washing machine, and that's where the fish hang out.
That's why I was wondering. If someone on cape cod ma. spent all the time and money you have on that 20 footer they would be putting their life on the line getting to the fish.

[Bigeye]

I was just wondering where you got the side console rod holders.  I'm looking to add some to my transom which is very narrow It wont take any that are angled or have a round flange. 

[mshugg]

....wet ride, dangerous in 3 footers and much smaller than what I'm used to up North. Where I boat in Ma. that boat would sink on an average afternoon.  We have a lot of shoals and rips here that stand up like a wall and churn like a washing machine, and that's where the fish hang out.
That's why I was wondering. If someone on cape cod ma. spent all the time and money you have on that 20 footer they would be putting their life on the line getting to the fish.

The is it worth it question could be asked about any rebuild?  I won't be useing the boat in MA.  It's a Forida boat born and bred in Florida. 

But, Scoflaw, you have a way off tossing grenades and letting them hang there.  Please elaborate on the "dangerous in 3 footers" comment.  Let's start by acknowledging that not all 3 footers are created equal.  In my sea kayaking life, I've been in 3 foot waves that would slap you silly and been in 3 meter waves that were fun. 

Does the boat have performance characteristics that make it unsafe?  A tendency to stuff the bow? Unstable? Toward Bow Steering?  Difficult to control? Pounding?  At what speed is it dangerous? Are you talking about unsafe on plane? Or at displacement speed? Bottom line, is there something that makes the 20 CCP uniquely dangerous in 3 foot seas? Or are you saying its a 20 foot boat? 

As for wet, I expect any center console to be wet and certainly a 20'foot boat to be wet.  Hell, I've taken showers ridding on a 32 Seavee skippered by a professional captain.

[mshugg]

I was just wondering where you got the side console rod holders.  I'm looking to add some to my transom which is very narrow It wont take any that are angled or have a round flange.

I got them on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DIO9C58?psc=1

They're ok.  I got them because they would fit without widening the console too much.  They are a little rough on the inside of the tube, not as well polished as the outside and a couple of rough spots in the casting, nothing that affects use, but I do expect they'll require maintenance.  If you can live with plastic TH Marine makes some similar tubes in plastic.