New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[wingtime]

The livewell on my Explorer discharge is on the aft starboard side of the boat.

[Blue Agave]

Thanks, Blue  I've been thinking about the livewell overflow.  What are thoughts about having the outflow on the hull side?  I'm thinking about 4-6" in front of the scupper outflow on the starboard side.

Not a fan of scuppers exiting side of boat, since you are building have you considered having the scuppers exit the rear?  Regarding having the drain overflow exiting on the side sure it can be done but be sure you build access into the floor for the ball valve.  Also, it would have to be above the waterline while underway, if not it my not drain quick enough.

[mshugg]

Thanks, one of my goals in the build is easy access to all systems, so getting to sea cocks won't be a problem.  In fact one of the appealing things about rebuilding is access.  I hate the way that newer boats make it so difficult to do even basic repairs.  Some boats require that you have 4 foot arms to even touch the bilge pump- not my boat,

[mshugg]

Travel and family commitments knocked me off my schedule, but I finally have the inner transom skin in.  Yeah!

[RickK]

Looks nice and strong 

[wingtime]

Looks nice and beefy!

[mshugg]

I cleaned up the stringer sections that I cut out to access the transom.  I think that they're in good enough shape to tab in.  There are some gaps, but once they're tabbed in and foamed, they'll be rock solid.



I'm probably getting ahead of myself, but I cut the transom boxes, so they can be used as the foundation for the transom cap.  I'll just count it as research and strategic planning.







I'll rework the cockpit drains, so they exit the floor and use Perko on bronze scupper valves.



These are the drains.  I had them on a early 90s Hydrasport 20 that I owned.  They worked flawlessly.

[RickK]

Looks like you're having fun now and getting creative.  You also might want to think about putting "knees" in to help support the transom for the bracket.  Looks great.

[fishinonthebrain]

Looking great..... I like the drains but will it make the thru hull fitting below the water line?

[mshugg]

I plan to keep the scupper thru-hulls where they were on the original.  I assume that that is right above the designed waterline.  I'll need to get the depth dimension of the cockpit drains, but with the deck raised about 3/4 inch, I think everything will drain.  If not, it will require a change of plan.

[mshugg]

I'm getting ready to tab in the stringer extensions, but first a little more demolition.  I dug about a foot of foam out of the aft end of the stringers, so when I pour in new 4LB foam, it will overlap into both ends of the stringer.  I also spent a couple of hours chiseling most of the old bonding putty of the top of the stringers. I also laid a 6' strait edge along the bottom of the hull to assure that there is no hook in the bottom.  Good News!  No hook, the bottom is strait.

[mshugg]

I got the stringer extensions tabbed in today.  Tomorrow I'll fill with 4Lb foam.

[RickK]

Nice work    Keep it up.

[mshugg]

I keep chipping away at it.  Today, I foamed in the stringer extensions, cleaned up the top of the stringers and sealed all the fill holes.  The stringers should be solid and watertight for at least the next 38 years.



I may have overestimated the amount of foam on this pour.  Thar She Blows!

[mshugg]

Big Day Today!  I need to reenforce the hull-deck seam, so I decided to remove the cap/liner.  This will allow me to remove rotted ply from hull-deck seam and reenforce.  It will also make it easier to re-core the cap along with a couple of smaller projects.  The trade-off: its a big job to remove the liner.  All considered things went pretty well.













Got to admit it:  There's something about that Aquasport Shear.