New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[mshugg]

I'm making progress.  The transom is down to clean glass.  I just need to finish grinding out the excess roving and putty in the corners, and it will be time for the new transom.  I'm going with 2 layers of 3/4 28lb Carbon Core (similar to Coosa).  Finished thickness should be just at or over 2".  I've also decided to go with a full transom and the Armstrong wide body bracket.  Thanks to Wingtime & Blue Agave for the feedback.  I think this will be a good choice for the way I intend to use the boat.

[Blue Agave]

Well on your way now!  I have the wide body bracket and I'm very happy with the bracket. I recommend the full 72" dive platform and ladder mount.

[mshugg]

Since I'm going with the full transom with bracket, I decided to fill in the cutout in the outer skin prior to fitting and installing the core.  I hope this requires less fairing for the outside of the transom.  My plan is to add 2 layers of 1708 to the rear skin.  2 x 3/4 carbon core 28LB core and finish with three layers of 1708 for the inside skin.  Does this sound reasonable?  I'm using Raka Epoxy.

[RickK]

Looks good.  I think I would have added a couple layers of 1708 across the entire transom though - you should beef it up before coring it.

[mshugg]

Yeah, Rick, plan is 2 layers 1708, then core then three more 1708.  Does that sound right?  This was just to fill cut out.

[RickK]

Sounds good. 

[fishinonthebrain]

I would do 4 layers of 1708 on the inside with at least a 12" overlap on the sides and bottom for a good tie in. 4 layers will give you just at 1/4" thickness.

[mshugg]

Thanks Fishin,

I just reviewed your build.  Your transom is really clean.  I would do well to emulate your work.

Michael

[mshugg]

Been preparing for the transom install.  With temperature approaching 100 degrees I want everything ready to go for an early AM start.  Tomorrow will be the day!

I ground out the rotten strip af ply ay the hull deck seam, and reenforced it with 4 strips of 1708





Doorskin Template





Did a dry fit of the core and predrilled bolt holes for clamping

[RickK]

Now's the time to plan your drain and make sure that the new lowest point of your boat is not a foot in front of the transom (like mine and many others). PVC is your friend.

[mshugg]

Thanks, Rick. 

Plan will be to epoxy in a PVC tube before adding the inside skins.  One of many tips I've picked up from this forum.  Thanks Classic Aquasport!

[RickK]

While the core is in, drill an 1 1/4" (OD of 1" PVC - double check please) hole/notch through the core at the very bottom aligning with the hole already there? Coat the hole/notch with regular epoxy (I realize you're using composite but its a good practice anyway) - glue the pipe down and then dry fit the core again.  Then do your 1 layer of 3/4oz csm and 3-4 layers of 1708 shiny side against the transom (leaves the csm side "out" when you're done).  They say epoxy doesn't work well with CSM but I've not had problems.

[mshugg]

The transom core is in.  Everything is well bonded well with good squeeze out all around.  Today, I'll install the drain and laminate in the inside skin.









This little guy paid a visit during the transom install.  Katydids are good luck, right?

[Blue Agave]

Great progress!  Things to keep in mind as you finish up the transom is the location of the mounting bolts of the Armstrong as well as any transom thru hulls if you intend to have a livewell.  The width between the stringers was an issue with the installation of my livewell drain thru hull due to the fact that I went with the double wide bracket. When it came time to install bracket and thru hulls had to modify the stringer.

[mshugg]

 Thanks, Blue  I've been thinking about the livewell overflow.  What are thoughts about having the outflow on the hull side?  I'm thinking about 4-6" in front of the scupper outflow on the starboard side.