New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[ktisdall]

Could you possibly measure the 'coordinates' of the forward hidden floor well?   I'd like to put a hatch into mine, and my floor has no openings except the inspection port under the fish box.  I'm hoping not to remove that.....

It would be very helpful to have the dimensions from the forward bulkhead (anchor locker door) to the forward and aft inner sides of the bulkheads that form the well.  And some way to measure where the inner sides of that well are, measured in from some point also aft of the fwd bulkhead?

Thanks very much in advance!

--Kevin

[mshugg]

I'll get those measurements today.

[mshugg]

Kevin,

Got the measurements!  The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead.  The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front.  The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it.  Lots of room up there.

Best, 

Michael

[mshugg]

The Demolition Continues.  Fuel tank, coffin and hiden compartment have been removed along with the center deck.  I'm holding off on cutting out the rest of the deck and transom until i do some work on the trailer bunks.  I want the boat well supported before I remove too much structure.




It's amazing what gets lost in the bilge of a 37 year old boat.  I found the remnants of 2 crescent wrenches, 2 screwdrivers, a roll of electrical tape,  a buddy bearing bra and an anchor that has no place on a 20' boat.   I'm still looking for the body of Jimmy Hoffa.



I'm also tackling the console.  I'm narrowing it 4" to make room for some console side rod holders.  I'm also going to raise the top of the console to allow for flush mounting electronics.





Here's a mock up of the raised panel.  After I get the Holes patched and everything reasonably fair, I'll make a mold for a console top extension and attach it.  The console is quite thin and mostly choped strand, so i'll reenforce with 1708 and add core to key areas.

[mshugg]

Kevin,

Got the measurements!  The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead.  The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front.  The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it.  Lots of room up there.

Best, 

Michael

The actual measurements of the box, now that it is out of the boat, are 26" wide and 36" long.  It is square when viewed from above and trapezoidal viewed for end or side.  The dimensions at the bottom are 22" x 34".  The depth is 12".

[ktisdall]

Kevin,

Got the measurements!  The aft edge of the compartment is 53 1/2" from the front bulkhead.  The box is 35 1/2" long, 26" wide at the aft edge, and 24"-26" at the front.  The reason this is a range is because I couldn't accurately measure it.  Lots of room up there.

Best, 

Michael

Michael -

Thanks very much.  This will be a big help on mine.  Best luck on the rest of your restoration.

--Kevin

[mshugg]

Progress slowed a bit this week.  I was out of town.  Nevertheless, I am chipping away at the console.  I built a mold for the extension on the top, sed Plasticine clay to form fillets, applied 5 layers of mould release wax, and laid it up with 2 layers 3/4 oz CSM and 2 layers 1708. 







Here it is laying on top of the console for a trial fit.  Next step will be to cut off the console top, fit the new section, feather the joint and tab with 1708.  I still plan to modify the base to allow for built in rod holders and add a recessed toe kick. then comes a lot of fareing, prime and paint - all while continuing the demolition on the boat.

[RickK]

 Nice extension 

[mshugg]

I'm continuing the work on the console.  I'm cutting the base to add back in the 4" that I removed from the center.  2 Inches each side will allow enough width for built in console rod holders while maintaining the same footprint.









I Used some scrap glass and some divnycell core to re join the pieces prior to glassing.



Here it is joined with 3 Layers 1708 with 1 Layer CSM on top.  I still have a lot of sanding fairing and finishing to go, but it seems to be working out.





I got back to the boat today removing it from the trailer, so I could keep things square while I rebuild the deck and transom.

[mshugg]

The remnants of TS Collin, made it sweaty work, but I cut out the rest of the deck and removed the floatation foam today.  With two exceptions, the stringers are solid.  About 22" inches of the port stern stringer is broken, and there's about a 6" section of the taping starboard bow stringer that looks like it was not properly wetted out.  All in all, I feel pretty good, since I'll need to remove most of the break at the stern in order to access the transom.  When I glass it back in it will be solid, and when i rehab the section at the bow, it will be better than new.









Here's the split in the starboard bow tabbing.  The roving is completely dry.  It looks like it was never wetted out.



Here's a view of the port stringer.  There's about a 22" split where the stringer let go of the hull.  I'll be cutting most of this away when I repair the transom.





I remember reading in someone's rebuild post that they found tubes of roving stuffed under the deck.  My boat had them.  They were symmetrically placed with two near the bow and 2 near the stern.  I can't figure out what purpose they served, but they don't look like a mistake.

[mshugg]

Today was a good day.  I removed the transom boxes in order to access the transom.  The boxes came out unscathed, so I'll be able to reattach them when the transom is done.











Here's a view of the original transom laminate under the cap.  It looks like a layer of 1/2" and a layer of 3/4" ply with thin skins.



With the liner it looks beefier, about 1 3/4" total.



Interesting, there's a strip of 1/4 ply at the hull/deck seam.  I'm sure it doesn't do much.

[mshugg]

I spent about 4 hours today taking a saw to the transom and stringers as well as digging out the wet transom core.  Most of it was wet with a areas of rot.  Still more digging and lots of grinding to do.  Still, it's progress.  The stringer foam was almost completely dry.  The hull was just a slighty wet under the foam, but the foam is dry.  Is it possible that I won't need to dig all that foam out?

[RickK]

Let me catch up with you - first thing I want to say you do some superb work 
The console is looking great and the idea to shrink the overall width and widen the base for rod holders is awesome.
The setup for blocking the hull is cool and it looks like you've thought it all through to include the steps that will save you climbing into the boat a thousand times.  What is the metal frame/rack from?
What you found in the transom looks typical.  Have you decided on the style of transom you're going to end up with? You can make it any thickness you want.

I think the rolls or tubing that you found are used for lifting points when they pull the deck/liner from the mold.  I had some real short ones on my 170 in the front under my casting deck and I may have had them in the aft but cut them out on my first re-decking 16 years ago.

If the foam is dry then I think you're good - it'll save you a lot of work.  Make sure the stringers are attached to the hull well all along the bottom.
Keep up the great progress - your craftsmanship so far points to ending up with a grand boat when you're done.

[mshugg]

Rick,

Thanks for the kind words.  I'm having fun with the build.  I considered buying a console, but decided that I could update the AS console to give it contemporary fishability while keeping the feel of the classic.

The rack is a boat lift system.  It's similar to this one: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=59042

I was shopping for boat stands on Craigslist, and someone had the lift system with 4 boat stands for not much more than the cost of stands alone.  I bit, and the system works well.  Even though the hull is well blocked, it's on sandy ground so I'm keeping the lift in place for additional insurance.  I've got 24x24 plywood under all blocks and stands to distribute the load too.

I considered going with a full transom with an Armstrong bracket, but came to the conclusion that a 20' boat is marginal for a bracket.  I'll be going with a standard 25" transom and reattaching the AS transom storage boxes.  I'll probably add a fold up wave gate or even a Conch style shroud if it would scale right to the boat.

[wingtime]

Blue agave has a 30" setback Armstrong bracket with swim platform on his 19'6" and it is a sweet set up.  Look at the pics of his recent repower. If I kept my 200xf (same hull as your ccp) that's the route I would have went.

Great work so far!