New User need advice on purchase of 225 Osprey

[Execution Leader]

Hi all!  I am going to look at a 2002 225 Osprey. Everything I have read and the people I have spoke to say these are really good boats. My questions are:
1. what should I be looking for when I go to look at the boat
2. What is the true value of this year
3.  Any concern with this boat upto 50 miles out in GOM

A little more about the boat

250 hp Yamaha 100 hours (low hours are a concern for me)
Canvas t top
Dual axel trailer. Rubber good
Used in fresh and salt water
Electronics gps/fish finder, radio, vhf

Everything else looks standard with no adders.

They are asking 17k. Nada shows 15.5 - 18k however looking at these for sale looks like 19-25k is normal price.
Thanks for your time...Wayne

[Capt. Bob]

A lot of questions.

Here's a primer on older hulls that you can use as a guideline in you search.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10634.0

True value is what someone will pay (tired cliche but true). You have done your homework with the NADA for a baseline, now look at the boat and you will see "hints" as to whether it was well cared for or just left to rot. Then you can adjust your offer based on those two items.

50 miles out?

First concern is getting back of course. That's all about the power.

Handling rough seas? They are a wet boat by design and that could be a long ride home but.....
Choosing your days (assuming this is not to be used for charter) can result in a pleasant ride. The Gulf is shallow and the seas are easily confused. IMHO only the heaviest/ offshore designed hulls provide a somewhat comfortable ride home in the GOM slop. You'll need to break out your checkbook. Still she will ride well in decent conditions and many members love these Genmar hulls (including me).

Good luck.

[Execution Leader]

Thanks capt bob. I'm along the coastal bend of Texas
and was thinking about a kicker on here and sea tow. I do understand these are wet.  50 miles is where we start getting structure on the bottom here besides all the oil rigs. "Hospital rocks". I'm looking at something for the calmer mornings which will handle the 2-3 ft normal slip we get here
 Been out there with smaller prolines 19 and 21 footers. 19 not so good. 21 did fine.

Thanks for the link!

[Execution Leader]

Well went to see the boat and I think it was worth every penny he was asking if not more. Only problems I found was two broken hatch lifts, I chip in the fish box hatch, raw
Water pump not working and the only thing that concerned me was general corrosion on top of the gas tank around the connections ( poly) tank. Did notice the wet ride and was looking for somewhere that sells the plastics for this. Anybody know somewhere to
Order. Trying to see my all in cost for this and that is one thing I cannot find.

Thanks again

[RickK]

For the eisenglass you'll need to have someone local make them.

[Aswaff400]

As Rick said, local canvas shop will make them. My boat is at a canvas shop right now having eisenglass panels and wings made

[Capt. Bob]

Several members have used these folks for the gas shock replacement.

http://www.ameritoolmfg.com/

Here's a couple of old threads on the seat hatch which is heavier in case you need to replace those.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11940.0
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4735.0

Attwood also makes replacements but I went with the Amtool. They are stainless have have worked very well and still look brand new after 6 years of use.

[Execution Leader]

Thanks for the help all. After much negotiation got him down to 15k. If all checks out from marine shop should have it this weekend.

[gman 82 aquasport]

 As far as the eisenglass/canvas enclosure, price will be determined by how enclosed you want to go. I have a 19-6 with a t-top that measures 52x80, fully enclosed with roll up plastic up front for ventilation, both sides and the rear can be rolled up independent  of each other. They attach at top when rolled with straps made on them. Keeps us both very dry , leaning post is under it as well, have been in some heavy rain with it and it comes in handy, heavy spray at the coast has been no problem, it can get hot with them all down in the summertime. I had someone local to me in NC do mine, blue sunbrella material. all 4 pieces can be removed in about 5 minutes or less, same for putting them back on. I have $1500. in the enclosure. Been worth every penny.

[Aswaff400]

picked my boat up from the canvas shop on Friday. best addition for running this time of year

[Execution Leader]

So quick update. Now looking at a 99 explorer. Had check in hand and the guy backed out the night before I was going to buy. Anyone have experience with the Johnson ocean pro   Looking these seem hard to start but otherwise good engine.

[Capt. Bob]

Read this post and mine below for the black art procedure of starting these old loopers.

Also note the item about a fully charged battery needed to spin the motor at the required minimum (300) rpm in order to produce the voltage needed to fire it off. Very important.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12425.msg125434#msg125434

Good luck.

[wingtime]

Those loopers are solid reliable motors.  But they can be a tad temperamental.  There is a trick to starting them but it shouldn't be that hard to start.   Of course clean carbs are a must.  If it was a new to me boat.... I'd clean the carbs just to be safe.   I found with mine if it is getting hard to start she needs new plugs.  These motors have a hot ignition system and will wear out a set of plugs in one season.  Fortunately they are cheap.  DON"T get NGK plugs!  They will not run right in these motors... only use the recommended Champion QL78YC.  They only cost about $3-$4 each and they work the best!

[Execution Leader]

Thanks again for the help. Checking the boat out Tuesday. Anyone know how to disable the ignition on these in order to do a compression check? Or should I just jump the starter? 

[wingtime]

You can leave the key off and use a remote starter button on the starter solenoid or pull all the plug wires and ground them.  Compression on these motors is not very high 90-100.  The key is they are all within about 10% of each other.  Do the test with the motor warm and with the throttle wide open to ensure you are getting full airflow.