Time for another

[dirtwheelsfl]

Got another 222 in for a rebuild. She needs everything except maybe the casting deck!







Tried to salvage outside skin but to no-avail..







Got some sweet new 1603 glass. Its real pliable like a straight biaxial and has just enough mat on the back to fill imperfections when lamming onto an old hull surface, and doesn't suck near the resin a 1708 does. Wets out real nice!







Core goes in tomorrow...

[RickK]

The whole liner is loose?  That's too bad.  What kind of weave does that cloth have?  Looks like the transom came out nice with the cloth.  She'll be better than new when you're done. 

[dirtwheelsfl]

Yea stringer liner is fully delaminated on the inboard side, the outside tabbing was coming up easily when I tried a few spots. The hull was complete before I removed the liner and casting deck. Were gonna core the hullsides from the sole up. Original style stringers and a few bulkheads...

The weave is real nice and tight, 45*

[northfork]

Dirt
Do you wet out your glass first and apply or do you wet out in place. Your work looks great and look forward to seeing your build.
Northfork

[dirtwheelsfl]

If ya look at the 2nd to last pic youll see some clamps and some strips of material at the top.   I fold em all over the back, then wet out where theyre gonna lay, then fold em back over n wet out one layer at a time...

The clamping strips just keep the glass nice and straight, the clamps would deform it in those lil spots...

[RickK]

I fold em all over the back, then wet out where theyre gonna lay, then fold em back over n wet out one layer at a time...

The clamping strips just keep the glass nice and straight, the clamps would deform it in those lil spots...

Did you mean you where you say

then wet out where theyre gonna lay

, that you trim them in where they're gonna lay, then fold them all back out and then fold them back in one layer at a time and wet them out in place?

[dirtwheelsfl]

Yep...   I cut my biggest piece first, then put it in the boat and cut my darts in the corners and get it fitting real nice. Then do my second the same way and so on...   When theyre all in and fitting nice i flip em over the back, put a fillet in the corners and fill any other holes or whatever, then wet out the dam and the hullsides/bottom for my first layer. Then flip first layer over n go to town!   Then its just wetting out a layer, hard-rolling it, then do your next one...

The first thing i do is make a pattern.  It gets used to mark the glass for cutting as well as the core.  I leave a couple inches at the top to play with.  When i mark glass for cutting, i keep the top edge even with the edge coming off the roll, then trace around the pattern. After that mark the desired  width of the overlap onto the hull and cut it out. Most of the time i cut my darts in the corners now just because i know pretty much where they need to be. I alternate between cutting them vertical or horizontal just to get some different overlaps. I even cut a whole "square" out of the corner tabbing on a layer just to avoid building a big hump back in the corners that would be a pain to glass to when i do the inside skin...

Ill take some pics to show ya...

[northfork]

Thanks for the reply. That's how I did my transom layup as well. I just switched to pre wet out on hull interior but had a hard time with the large pieces.
For small tabbing I have been pre wetting 3 layers at a time (with overlaps) and installing as one piece. It saved me time (I think).
 

[dirtwheelsfl]

1.5 coosa





knees



Stringers out!     The factory ones were so off center my new sole marks on the sides deviated almost 1.5" from port to starboard when I put a straightedge across the stringers (and spacers between straightedge and stringers to account for a 2" raise). Took measurements every foot going forward from the transom of the new height on the starboard (the higher side) and then the height from the chine to new sole, then transferred to port. Hot-glued some battens (the curve in them is an illusion) along my marks which ill put 2x4s across ala Kevins rebuild and then make the forms for the new stringers. The engineering is there already for them, just gonna be better materials and process!





Grind grind grind....

[RickK]

Nice work Chris, as usual 

Hope I can beat you to the finish line 

[CLM65]

Nice work Chris, as usual 

Hope I can beat you to the finish line 

No offense Rick, but my money's on Chris.  He is a machine when it comes to rebuilding these things.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Nice work Chris, as usual 

Hope I can beat you to the finish line 

I hope so!  haha

[dirtwheelsfl]

So this gal has been hit hard at some point...

Untitled by chris, on Flickr


Untitled by chris, on Flickr


I cant figure out what happened, but I know someone tried to fix it. You can see in some earlier pics where someone laid a bunch of sh!tty patches on the inside of the hull (they jigsawed the deck and thru the stringers and forward coffin bulkhead to get to it!)     Not sure how but it locked some big indents in the hull. Keel had some delam too...

Pulled em down about an inch

Untitled by chris, on Flickr

Laid up some beef!  2x1603 out to the strake flat and 2 more strips down the keel, 1 12" running down the strakes, and another going across the indents.

Untitled by chris, on Flickr

Time to do the rest of the hull.  1 layer overlapped in the keel extending up the chine, another 12" in the chine, and another 12" running under where the new stringers will land...

Untitled by chris, on Flickr

Untitled by chris, on Flickr

[dburr]

Rachet straps are the best!!

[RickK]

Has it hardened enough to know if the new glass on the inside locked the damaged hull in the shape you wanted?  Slick approach anyway.