Old Faithful

[flyboyo2]

Just changed my L/U water with a little oil in it and put her on the muff to check out things.  Had a good pee stream, however, it didn't seem as if there was as much water out the exhaust as I would expect.  Then I saw why, there was a small geyser emitting from the area where the shifter enters the l/u.  Will new seals address this problem or am I in deep kimche?

[fitz73222]

Hi Flyboy,
What engine do you have and is the water warm or cold coming out of the geyser?

[RickK]

I have always like the lines of Aquasports and Makos and two days ago was fortunate to locate a 1989 175 with a 1989 Mariner 75.

[flyboyo2]

Engine is 1989 Mariner 75.  I didn't let the engine run long enough for the water to heat, the pee stream was cool and I didn't test the shifter water.
 Another problem is when I turn the prop CCW in reverse it feels and sounds as if  it is under compression and very hard to turn. This is getting worrisome to say the least.

[fitz73222]

Well you should feel compression since you're trying to turn the engine over with the propeller while its in reverse gear!!!. Are you going to try to repair this yourself or just looking for information?

[flyboyo2]

Thanks for the reply...what has me confused is in forward the prop locks when turned CCW and ratchets and turns CW.  In reverse it locks CW but it is engaged when turned CCW. What am I missing?
If the leak can be repaired with seals I will attempt the repair otherwise off to the shop it goes.

[fitz73222]

Mercury's ratchet in forward gear and lock into reverse. This is normal, we can move on now. To do this correctly, you need to get the gearcase pressure and vacuum tested to see which seals are leaking. You are also going to need the driveshaft seal(s) installation tool and a suitable puller to pull the propshaft bearing carrier if you find that fishing line has cut the the propshaft seal. The shiftshaft seal is pretty straightforward with some precautions. By the time you bought the tools to do this job correctly, you would be in an easy $500.00 before you turn the first wrench or buy any parts. I just replaced my vacuum and pressure testers and they retail for $240. So you may want consider finding a shop to do this for you.

[flyboyo2]

You are correct sir!  I know just enough and can do just enough mechanical work to be dangerous.  My problem here in my slice of paradise is finding a honest, competent mechanic.  The dealers rip you off financially and there are no shops, to my knowledge, that are proficient in outboard repair.    I'll keep you posted.

[fitz73222]

You can bring me the gearcase and I'll show you how to reseal it. I'm about 40 minutes south of St.Augustine, bring the Misses flyboy ( if so equipped) and take her to see the Christmas lights in St. Augustine and treat her to a nice weekend and we'll pressure test it and get the parts ordered. When the parts arrive come back down for assembly class. I'm off from my day job from 12/18 till after New Years.

[RickK]

Hard to beat that offer 

[flyboyo2]

Mr fitz73222, Thank you for your kind offer.  There is one mech. here in Panama City that I used several years ago, if I can track him down he might be an option.

I have a condo in Stuart where we usually spend Christmas, if we go down this year I will contact you and we will get er' done.  Thanks again, your offer is  greatly appreciated.

[fitz73222]

No problem,
My name is Farley. Addressing the geyser you spoke of, it sounds like the plastic grommet that aligns and seals the joint between the water pump housing and the water tube is loose or damaged and you are loosing water pressure there. The excess water that is not getting to the power head is discharging into the midsection and out through the shift shaft hole or out of the drain hole between the lower engine mounts. That's why I asked if the water was cold or warm. Cold water is water coming up and warm water is water coming down from the power head. This is an easy fix. The new grommets are included in a water pump kit. There are two styles one is a smaller ID than the other. I believe your 1989 had the smaller ID water tube. So if someone used the larger ID grommet by mistake, you will get a significant water loss there.