1970 Aquasport 222 FB rebuild

[RickK]

Here is some pics explaining the drain problem
In the first pic you can see the boat is raised up for drainage and it rained last evening so I went out and checked the scuppers to see how they were working and letting the water run out from the deck 


I opened the rear hatch to look in the bilge and yup, there is water in there


This pic is me leaning forward and looking in the back of the bilge toward the drain - see, it's high and dry    and that is because of all the laminating and overlap buildups

Had I thought about this prior to the work I would have done the PVC thing I was trying to explain to you.

[Aswaff400]

if you notice in my rebuild, theres no drain plug on my transom. with all of the extra layers of glass, any water that would be in the bilge had to be an inch or more deeper to reach the transom, even with the bow jacked way high. i installed one of these perko garboard drain plugs about a foot forward of the transom, and she drains all but 1/4 inch of water with the bow slightly up.
http://www.amazon.com/Perko-0266DP0PLB-Garboard-Drain-Plug/dp/B002IV4ZF0

[HawgLeg]

Just got back in town from Apalachicola. Time to get to grinding now.

Rick,  is there anything you can do or just keep a sponge handy? I still haven't taken a pick but I did get the foot long 1" PVC glued in. Transom is ready to be glassed in.

Aaron, have you tried pulling it and draining while under way just to see if thats an option if the pump fails?

[RickK]

Sponge I guess.  I hope that the bilge will stay dry once she's all back together.

[Aswaff400]

i havent yet, its right behind my livewell pickup so theoretically it should work

[HawgLeg]

Vacation and business have slowed me down temporarily but I'm back at it. Wanted to post up some progress.

Here is my foot long 1" PVC glued in to the bottom of the hull.





Grinding away




Almost done grinding the hull. Got a little more "grass mowing" (as Joel put it) to do.




I'm now figuring out my gameplan for stringers, bulkheads, and fuel tank. I think I am gonna take the advice given and go epoxy rather than poly for the hull bottom, stringers, and bulkheads. May use plywood for stringers and bulkheads instead of foam or composite. I haven't completely made up my mind on that.

[RickK]

Looking goog HL 
I think I would lay a fillet of thickened resin along the base of PVC to fill it in so there is no air gap on the PVC sides/hull bottom and give the glass a transition point.  Then it'll be part of the whole lamination.
That's quite the grinder setup.  What do you have on it for the pad?

[HawgLeg]

Rick its kinda hard to see in the pic but I did lay in a fillet when I glued in the pvc. Your absolutely right I will lay another fillet for a smooth transition.

That's quite the grinder setup.  What do you have on it for the pad?

Its a Makita 7" 15 amp 6000RPM. A conical flap disc won't fit on the shroud...I think. So its a flat shaped flap disc. Doesn't remove as much material as a conical but it still eats.

I had to use the 4" grinder up in the bow/keel area. I ground down into the glass that supports the bow eye to check out the wood and  condition of the bolt. Wood looks good and dry and the bolt looks fine. Just fill it back in with epoxy and move on when I lay in new glass?

Also, There is a lot of blueish grey material up in the bow. Its bonding putty for the casting deck liner right? does it all need to come off or will epoxy bond to it if I just clean it up.

[flatbackpaul]

Looks great.  I look at the photos with a tear in my eye.  I loved that old boat.  Keep up the good work.

Thanks,

Paul

[RickK]

Rick its kinda hard to see in the pic but I did lay in a fillet when I glued in the pvc. Your absolutely right I will lay another fillet for a smooth transition.

Lay it thick in there on each side and the pipe will become part of the hull

That's quite the grinder setup.  What do you have on it for the pad?

Its a Makita 7" 15 amp 6000RPM. A conical flap disc won't fit on the shroud...I think. So its a flat shaped flap disc. Doesn't remove as much material as a conical but it still eats.

I had to use the 4" grinder up in the bow/keel area. I ground down into the glass that supports the bow eye to check out the wood and  condition of the bolt. Wood looks good and dry and the bolt looks fine. Just fill it back in with epoxy and move on when I lay in new glass?

Also, There is a lot of blueish grey material up in the bow. Its bonding putty for the casting deck liner right? does it all need to come off or will epoxy bond to it if I just clean it up.

Nice grinder setup though.  I would not trust the bonding putty for a good bond, even with epoxy.

[HawgLeg]

Just spoke with Joel this morning and ordered my epoxy. He said to just clean it up a bit and make sure the surface is smooth but not to worry about the putty bedded in the woven that the bond will be good.

[RickK]

I agree with Joel that you don't need to get it out of the deep woven but I would grind down to glass enough to give the epoxy something solid to grab onto.  Looking at the pics of the front portion, you are not deep enough yet.

[Shine]

subscribed. 

glassing over old putty or tabbing... the new glass will only be bonded to the hull as well as the old stuff is attached to the hull.  So long as you remove most of it, and get at least some hull glass surface to bond to, the epoxy will take care of it.  I like to see close up pictures before saying "thats enough" - we might have two different ideas on what is "mostly removed"

May use plywood for stringers and bulkheads instead of foam or composite. I haven't completely made up my mind on that.

plywood/epoxy/biax stringers will weigh a little more, but they will cost less than half the cost and at least half the labor.  Its a trade off. 

[HawgLeg]

Thank goodness the major grinding phase is complete!!!

Removed all of the bonding putty on both sides.
 


My epoxy came in today. Planning to start at the bow and lay a layer of 1708 over the entire hull working my way to the stern where I will finish by laying up the inner transom skin with 3 layers 1708.


Before I get started I have a couple of questions.
1. How far up the sides should I go with the 1708?
2. Is it Ok to fill the keel in the bow with epoxy putty then lay 1708 on top?

[RickK]

Looks good.
1) as far up as you can go.  There is many ways to skin this cat and I would do a half at a time, starting at the hull sides and over lap 4 inches at the chine (both up and down) and then lay half the boat overlapping at the keel and then repeat with the other side.  Can you pop the cap off?  It'll make it much easier - get good measurements before you do though and then brace it with some 2x4s across the top.
Here is one side of mine done. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg92382#msg92382

And both done. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg92936#msg92936

2) Notice I put a filler in where you are thinking of building it up.  I used a composite board - Jasper board. And then poured foam under it.  The Aquasports like to hold water there so might as well fill it.

Great progress though!!

The epoxy gets real slippery if you step in it - don't ask how I know that