1970 Aquasport 222 FB rebuild

[RickK]

Looks solid
So what is the plan for clamping it to the new outer skin?

[HawgLeg]

So what is the plan for clamping it to the new outer skin?

I can't bear to put holes in my new skin or core...sooo I'm gonna make 4x4 clamps. I thought about it a lot this afternoon and I'm just going to have to cut my dam down to where I can use the clamps. Unless you think I can remove the dam which I'm itching to do, and then clamp to melamine, ply or something sturdy and flat. I just can't do holes...even though I'm positive you get a much better clamp all the way down and across by using through bolts.

[RickK]

I don't blame you about the holes in the new skin
I noticed that you have the boat a little forward of the end of the bunks - why not push/pull the boat back a little so it clears the bunks and then you can drop the table to the floor which allows you to work from the top with the clamps.  I was going to bring this up before but you seemed to have it figured out and I know how hard it is to readjust after you have "figured out" something.

[HawgLeg]

 The dam came off and WOW! Definitely not putting any holes in the new skin. So the plan is to clamp it up with a piece of ply or melamine on the outside. Got more resin in today so I'm just waiting on my extra set of hands to get back in town.

I noticed that you have the boat a little forward of the end of the bunks - why not push/pull the boat back a little so it clears the bunks and then you can drop the table to the floor which allows you to work from the top with the clamps. 

I didn't have the manpower at the time to move the hull on the bunks. Also with me moving the boat in and out of the shop to grind glass I figured it would be a pain. Its all good though because this new plan is much better and simplifies how I am gonna go about it.



I did go ahead and cut and drizzle out the drain plug hole tonight. I widened the hole a bit to fit the PVC in. I got it to where the PVC lays fairly flush with the bottom of the hull. Problem is...the cylinder(pipe) is at the wrong angle. To get the pipe at the same angle as the transom means the pipe has to come up off the bottom of the hull about a half in or more. Hope I didn't create a problem here. I'll wait for feedback before I proceed with glueing the PVC in place.

[RickK]

New skin looks very nice 
Don't worry about the pipe being perpendicular to the transom, you want to be flat on the hull bottom and you can grind the pipe to the angle of the transom.  If you use a garboard plug on the outside of the transom the pipe can be at any angle.

[flatbackpaul]

What happened to the sidewall?  It looks like a chunk was taken out next to the Aquqsport logo.

[HawgLeg]

Don't worry about the pipe being perpendicular to the transom, you want to be flat on the hull bottom and you can grind the pipe to the angle of the transom.  If you use a garboard plug on the outside of the transom the pipe can be at any angle.

Thats a relief. I need to take a closeup of the drain from the back. Not sure if the placement is going to allow a garboard unless they make them small diameter.

What happened to the sidewall?  It looks like a chunk was taken out next to the Aquqsport logo.

No worries its just overlap from the layup.

[flatbackpaul]

I got ya.   

[RickK]

How hard was it to pull the "table" off the transom skin?

[HawgLeg]

How hard was it to pull the "table" off the transom skin?

No biggie. It didn't just fall off...it took some force but it popped off fairly easily. I didn't have a problem but it might make it easier for one man to pull off if it were waxed.


Got the transom core in and found a good deal on amazon for a Makita 7" grinder with a dust shroud for the shop vac. I've decided the coring and glass on the cap don't really need attention plus I don't have the offset numbers so I could create a problem if I glass anything on the cap before its back on the hull. I'd like to just clean it up, scruff it and get it back on the hull before I start cutting out stringers this weekend. I will need to build up and sand down a few spots on the shear line before the cap goes on.


 

[RickK]

Progress is a good thing 

[HawgLeg]

Removed my clamps last night and tapped all around with a quarter and it sounded solid as a rock all over. My corners have very good bonds with resin squeezed out all the way around the core. I started to work on my drain first by drilling out the core with a hole saw. All was looking good until I noticed a 1/16-1/8" gap around the edge of my new hole between the outer skin and my core. UH OH!! 
I did some more tapping around that area with a quarter and paid closer attention to the sound changes. Then I got some safety wire and started probing around. I was praying it would only go about an inch but oh no it kept going about 7-8inches in each direction around the drain hole. Then I got out my streamlight and put it up to the skin and examined. I can see plain as day where the void is. Its a pretty big void but it will be OK after I fill it in. Id say its about a cup in volume. Id say I have a 90% solid bond especially in the corners just this one area didn't get enough peanut butter I reckon. Im baffled though because I erred on the side of overdoing it. I'll try my best to get this well photo documented in case it happens to anybody else.

I know what I have to do but I dug around on here anyway to see if I could find others that had this happen. I came across this:

When you push on it it flexes in between 1/64" to 1/32" ... could it be drilled and injected with resin??

I had the same thing happen to me.  I ended up drilling an array of 1/8" relief holes from the top of the void to a few inches above the bottom of the void.  I also drilled a few 1/4" holes along the bottom of the void.  I bought a handful of empty caulking tubes from FGCI, and filled them with epoxy thickened with cabosil - not peanut butter consistency in this case, more like a thick syrup.  I started injecting in one of the 1/4" holes.  As the epoxy started oozing from each relief hole, I put a screw in it.  Then continued injecting and plugging holes until the void was filled.  I can't say for sure that it is 100% filled, but it is very solid.  Just make sure you don't pressurize the cavity and cause it to bow out.  And this job definitely goes smoother with an extra set of hands.

[HawgLeg]

Forgot to mention that I will go ahead and get my bilge drain pipe set and the hole in the core filled before I mess with the void. It'll be less of a mess this way.

[HawgLeg]

Wanted to post up some progress before I head to Apalachicola for a much needed vacation. Fingers crossed that Erika breaks up! I'm searching for a tank in the 50-70gal range. Since the plan is to hang a 200 In-line 4 stroke Yamaha on the back I'm thinking big for the tank. Also, ready to pick up my stringer core and bulkhead material. I'll double check but I think I need 16-17" stringer height to raise my deck 4"+. Whats the best deal out there for 2" foam sheets? Ive been scouring the net and am unsure what I need. 

I originally planned to remove the original stringers completely but after a few beers and staring and thinking I changed my mind and decided I'd investigate further before I removed them. That didn't last long. Starting digging foam out and then decided to revert to the original plan. A oscillating multitool, crowbar, and a machete were my weapons of choice and made short work of removing the stringers and old foam.


I only had time to remove up to the livewell.


Did get the cap back on temporarily.


Went to Lowes and got some 42 gallon contractor cleanup bags. Really impressed at the mess I didn't make outside the boat! Now time to load up the truck and head to the county recycling center.


Hopefully will be able to put some tarpon and red pics up soon if I don't get blown off the water!!

[RickK]

Nice progress
Once you get the stringer "liner" out and the hull ground down you'll feel great (besides the itching) .  Then lay a layer or 2 of 1708 across the entire hull overlapping at the chines and the center line, with epoxy and that will be a new "blank slate" - ready for any design you have.
Do yourself a favor and don't get too far ahead of your progress, in your head.  I bet I spent a couple weeks worth of time just staring at the hull or other parts I was working on - see if you can break it into smaller chunks other than the "Global" view and tackle them before thinking forward to far.