Thermal breakers in dash (1995 225 Explorer)

[vonkamp]

I'm getting tired of changing the cheap thermal breakers, are there any good quality ones I can buy for a reasonable price? I was actually thinking of removing them and replacing with the Blue Sea Systems Water Resistant Panel Mount Fuse Holder http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290021|2290030&id=1334713. I'm not a professional electrician so I was wondering if there are any down sides to doing this mod (other than carrying extra fuses). Thanks in advance for the advice.

[Capt. Bob]

Does the back of your panel look like this?

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10709.msg104671#msg104671

If so, you may be experiencing a similar situation.

In any case, the glass fuse is somewhat retro and was updated with the breaker system. The idea is that it's much easier to reset the breaker rather than replace the fuse. Also the glass is thought to be more sensitive to vibrations found in a boat and therefore subject to breaking. I've had this type (glass) on every boat I've owned including my current 91 WAC. I replaced the factory originals with ones similar to what is shown in your link and they work fine. Truth is I've never experienced a failure due to breaking but yes they tend to blow (what they're designed to do) from time to time.

Still, since you have a newer design panel, I would look first at why the breakers are failing.

Post a few pics of what you have and any change you decide to make. It's always helpful.

Thanks and good luck.

[CLM65]

I've still got all the original thermal breakers on my 2002 Osprey.  Never had a problem with them.  Not sure of the brand....

I recently bought thermal breakers from Del City for my project boat.  They were cheap, and I haven't used them yet, so I can't provide any feedback on their reliability.  But now you have me worried.

[vonkamp]

Thanks for the advice Capt. Bob. Yes, your link is exactly what mine looks like. Seems to me, the breakers themselves are failing because even when removed from the circuit, they cant be reset. My guess is internal corrosion from salt air environment. Maybe I will drill the rivits out of one and have a look inside.... 

I will post up some pictures if I go with the change, also redoing the battery wiring area in the back...

[Capt. Bob]

You're probably on the right track with the corrosion.

Here are my replacements. Note I added one for the Flo Scan switch and the 12 V plug.



I also replaced the inline fuses for my trim tabs to allow easier access (lower right).



Good luck.

[vonkamp]

CLM65,
I have been using the Marpac breakers from boat surplus store in town. Not long ago I stopped at a marina and bought a Seachoice breaker to compare quality thinking it might be a little better made/sealed. What I found was essentally the same breaker, both made in Taiwan, both appear to have the same case with aluminum rivits. I think I'm going with fuses, they are easier to change than faulty breakers when on the water...