170 Thru Hull

[alandry100]

The boat is starting to show through the snow - thinking about spring. As I was putting the boat away the fishbox drain thru hull cracked and I removed it. I put it somewhere so I didn't forget where it was and guess what - can't find it. Does anyone know what the factory size  for a 1979 170 is? Also, any recommendations for brand/material or how to do it. It looks like that I will need to cut a hole and add a pie plate. I did a search and did not find a thread with this job, though I am not very good at searching the history here for some reason. Thanks in advance.

[RickK]

Here is a list that will help
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6435.msg45482#msg45482

[Capt. Bob]

This is for a later model 170 (87) but it may help.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10247.0

Something like this (below fuel vent)?


Maybe you could cut your access plate inside the right storage bin where it wouldn't be seen.


Good luck.

[alandry100]

That's the one. Should I stick with the plastic one - or should I change it up?

[Capt. Bob]

That's the one. Should I stick with the plastic one - or should I change it up?

You may want to look into this.
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-mushroom-head-hose-barb-thru-hull.shtml

I have this type for my raw water thru hull and it has held up very well.

It comes down to cost but you often see newer Aquas with the chrome over brass closer (than the bilge discharge) to the water.

Good luck.

[alandry100]

I was thinking the same thing with the access plate - that would also let me see what was going on with the fuel line. What about size - since I misplaced I'm not sure.

[Capt. Bob]

Access plate: As big as you can fit.

4" is very small and even if you can fit your arm inside, you can't then really see anything.
6" is better and 8" would be great.

Also, while you have the jigsaw out, you just might want to bite the bullet and cut one in just below the fuel fill. Yes it will be visible but I'm not sure one in the storage will give you access to the fill hose.

Barb size would be a guess but one I'd take based on this post.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10247.msg92062#msg92062

You may want to cut first and then you can check the ID of the hose.

Good luck.

[alandry100]

I'm having trouble getting a good measurement on the ID of the drain hose - I don't have access yet because there is no hatch. It is either 1" or 3/4" - which seems more likely?

[Capt. Bob]

The one shown in Wing's post is 1".

I can try and see mine but we're really talking two different hulls and boxes, still.........

I'll be back in a few.

[Capt. Bob]

OK,

Again, this is for a 91 WAC but.....

Both my thru hull drains (bait well and cooler) are 1" I.D. (barb size).

Couple that with Wing's pic showing the drain with barb fitting 1" ID hose and that's my guess.

Good luck.

[alandry100]

Thanks Bob - missed that in Wing's post.

[alandry100]

Got into it on Saturday - cut a hole in the side of the starboard deck hatch. Couldn't get a saw in there, couldn't find my Dremel, so I drilled a bunch of holes and got a small hand saw in there.

Filled with foam.

Once I got most of that free and exposed the back side of the fitting - discovered it wouldn't budge. Didn't get a picture of that but plan on sawing off the end of the fitting with a sawzall. Then I need to figure out a way to pull a bit of the drain hose out so I can connect the new thu-hull. If anyone has any good ideas I am all ears.

[Capt. Bob]

Then I need to figure out a way to pull a bit of the drain hose out so I can connect the new thu-hull. If anyone has any good ideas I am all ears.

Well I can lead you to a couple of threads on removing hose from foam but nothing you are going to like. Also, you're trusting that even if you could pull it a little, that enough slack exists so.....

You may want to consider putting in a short splice to give you the length you need to re-make the connection. It no doubt is "frozen" to the barbed end but first you might want to try and heat the hose itself and see if it will soften enough to allow you to remove it from the end of the existing thru hull.

Lastly, you could try pulling on the hose once you have removed the barbed end. Historically, once foamed in, they rarely budge but you don't know till you try. If you do get it to move, I'd suggest you run some water through it to insure it didn't kink before final hook up.

Good luck and post a couple more pics so we have it for documentation.

Thanks!

[alandry100]

I like the idea of a splice but there is not a lot of room - maybe I need to get a shorter thru - hull. I bought an Atwood stainless and it is pretty long. To make the splice get a small length of pvc for the interior and a couple of clamps?

[Capt. Bob]

For a splice, I would use a barbed fitting (and clamps). They come straight or at 90 degrees. The latter might help with the routing due to your thru hull size.