1971 22-2 Flatback Refurb

[RickK]

 
Really nice

[Jack Hart]

I put down the deck non-skid by rolling on a layer of paint, then using a large salt shaker to sprinkle on non-skid material evenly.  After the paint dried I rolled on another coat.  It came out pretty nice.  I've tried mixing non-skid in the paint, but it always came out very patchy.  I now recommend the salt shaker method.

[RickK]

Same method I use but with gelcoat instead of paint.

[Jack Hart]

With much crawling around on my belly and some grunting and groaning, I got the boat back on the trailer.  Two bottle jacks and the borrowed stands made it a one man job.



Then engine and jack plate were reinstalled next in order to get some of the tongue weight off the trailer.



Then the fuel tank:





and finally the console:














and finally the console:

[Aswaff400]

Looks like it's coming along nicely. I also did the salt shaker method but with gelcoat

[RickK]

I put down the deck non-skid by rolling on a layer of paint, then using a large salt shaker to sprinkle on non-skid material evenly.  After the paint dried I rolled on another coat.  It came out pretty nice.  I've tried mixing non-skid in the paint, but it always came out very patchy.  I now recommend the salt shaker method.

I guess I don't quite understand the area under the console    Maybe it's the way the picture is.
Is that an added layer for under the fuel tank?

[Jack Hart]

What you're seeing is the lid to the well sitting on top of the area where the console will sit.  I didn't see any need to non-skid the area under the console, and I was running short of paint and non-skid.

[RickK]

ahHAA - I see it now - makes perfect sense.  Thanks for clearing that up for me.

[Jack Hart]

I bought 250' of tinned marine wire in appropriate colors and used it all.  Here are a few shots of the rigging chaos.

[Jack Hart]

All the gauges and switches hooked up and working.  Gauges include tach, water pressure, fuel level (I can still dip the tank), and simple depth.  I don't find much use for a fishfinder in the shallow water where I fish.  The gps chartplotter is way more useful.  A hint for anyone installing control cables on older Evinrude/Johnsons:  the bracket that locks the cable to the motor can be mounted two ways.  If you mount it with the tab up, you won't be able to get into reverse.  I found out the hard way and it took a lot of head scratching to figure it out.



Here's a view of the new rub rail and the funky bow fitting that I elected to keep.  I did replace the bulb with an LED.  Rub rail is expensive and white is hard to find, but I went to Boat Builder Central and found a great deal on rub rail that fit perfectly and looks really good.

[Aswaff400]

looks good! wont be long before she's in the water!

[Capt. Bob]

 

[Jack Hart]

Waiting for a windshield and grab bars.  Hopefully they'll come this week.  I hauled the boat out and fueled up.  Gas at $2.10 a gallon!  When I started in October it was more like $3.75.



The trolling motor batteries and charger are behind the Ipe hatch covers.  All the original wood was stripped and repainted, but I had to make the hatch covers.



A rotomolded ice chest this size costs about $500. I pulled this vintage chest out of my trash pile (free) and with a little Clorox and elbow grease it's perfect, and also of 1971 vintage.

[Blue Agave]

   Excellent work, the boat looks great!  Look forward to seeing photos from the maiden voyage.

Don't forget your shoes in the summer time, I think that color you put down on the deck is going to get hot. 

[Jack Hart]

I found some LED strip lights on E-bay, 18 feet for $10 delivered.  They came directly from China and I was skeptical but figured that for the price I couldn't go too far wrong.  It took about 10 days for them to be delivered, but they worked great.  They're waterproof with an adhesive backing and can be dimmed with a rheostat. 

Here's what they look like mounted under the gunnels and at full brightness: