project 281 aquasport bracket for twin

[Earl]

Hello and merry Christmas to all I'm new to the  Forum I bought a 1988 aquasport about 2 years ago as a project Boat.I removed all the bottom paint and Gelcoat...white..and I'm slowly redoing the center console with new gauges and new dash panels at this point I'm considering close in the transom and using a bracket just wanted to get some feedback...in the pros and cons of the  bracket or should I just leave it original thank you in advance...I'm in North Miami Beach, FL. .

[wingtime]

I think a bracket is a great idea.

[Earl]

Ok  Do you know anyone that has a used bracket Forsale or someone that could build one for me In this area?

[kaptainkoz]

Brackets have more pros than cons in my limited experience and research. I am closing off my transom and adding a single bracket on my 1979 246 CCP. I personally feel that for outboard fishing boats, brackets are the way to go.

Some of the pros are that that boat performs like a longer boat as in fact you are lengthening it from motor to bow. The space added to the inside of the boat is probably the largest pro. You have an added level of safety with a closed off transom from both trailing waves swamping the boat and people falling out of it or into the splash well. You have a slight noise reduction as the the closed off transom buffers some of the outboard noise. Plus, I think it looks cool.

Some of the cons are that setup is critical as the transom has to be new and/or strong enough to support the added leverage of moving the motor out from the transom. It has to be mounted at a certain height which is usually where the cavitation plate is 1 inch higher than the bottom of the vee of the boat for every 12 inches of distance from the transom. For example, if you have a 24 inch bracket, your cavitation plate should be about 2 inches higher than the vee. Of course check with the bracket manufaturer.
You have one more thing to maintain as brackets are made of aluminum and the finish will not last forever. Sometimes its more than just paint as aluminum corrodes which can lead to water getting into the bracket negating the flotation, or even worse, some form of bracket failure. One overlooked fact about brackets is that they are made for a certain angle transom. I see so many postings for brackets without the transom angle listed. If you mount a bracket with a different angle than your transom, your motor is going to mount at a different angle.
Lastly a bracket leaves the outboard more vulnerable to swamping than a transom mount. Its not just about a rouge trailing wave that could soak a motor, its about water height. Water seeks its own level, so as the swell or chop is going up and down around the outside of the outboard, it is also going up and down inside the motor. The problem is if the water rises inside the leg and makes its way into the lowest cylinder. Remember 2 strokes have no valves so it is possible. You would not feel the results immediately of a wet cylinder except maybe a rough start, but the salt water internally will take its toll. The remedy is to get an outboard with a 30 inch leg. This will raise the powerhead 5 inches higher. Easier said than done on a budget. I plan on mounting my bracket at an appropriate height for a 25 inch motor and using a 25 inch outboard initially until I can get my hands on a 30 inch outboard where I will then add a jack plate to make up the 5 inches.
 So why not just mount it at the 30 inch mark and buy a 30 inch? Floatation. I want as much of the bracket in the water as possible to add as much floation as possible to counter the leverage weight of the bracket. The proper way around this is to custom order a bracket for the shape of your transom to add maximum floatation, but that adds to the price. I am using a second hand bracket which is the proper angle, but its not as deep as I would like to add maximum floatation.

To conclude my thought, I like to make clear that I am not a professional but an advanced amateur. If someone more knowledgeable feels that any of my ideas are wrong or unsafe I would hope they would chime in. I like to share ideas but I do not ever want to share bad information.

[tx_t]

I have a 281 CC I have owned since 2003. I recently added a 24" Stainless Marine bracket with a swim platform and rebuilt the Yamaha 200s along with the new power heads I had 225 heads and carbs put on which I am told won't get me the full 225 hp but will get me up to around 220-221. Not sure why as I checked all the other part numbers and they were the same I thought.

I noticed an increase in top speed from 40-41 mph to around 46-47.  Also fuel mileage increased from 1.5 mpg to around 1.8 mpg. (I can get almost 2 mpg if I keep my speed down under 25 knots)

Not sure how much of the performance gain was from the increased power or from the bracket, but it was worth the upgrade IMO.  

I have not inclosed my transom yet, but plan to.  I haven't noticed a huge difference in how close the engines are to the, but really can't say I remember how they sat without the bracket.

I thought the added weight in the back may help with the water over the bow issue, but my friends still call the boat wet willie.  I guess they got the Aquasport name right.

Any suggestions on the spray issue? I have considered the smart rails and also thought about adding a little "Carolina Flare" to the bow.

t

[Capt. Bob]

I have a 281 CC I have owned since 2003.

How about a few pics?

[tx_t]

I will.  It is actually Keith Knecht's old boat.  I noticed you posted a picture of her parted next to Keith's house here I picked her up the day I bought her.

[gran398]

Wondering why she rides wet. Does she dig hard off the bow and spray? Would figure moving the engine weight aft would help with that.

No need to change the hull flare....lets take a look at the weight placement to start. Normally we are moving weight forward with AS hulls.

Full disclosure. We've had 290 inboards where the owners reported issues with beating ride, wet, etc.

First things first. Quality spray rails may be an end solution.

[tx_t]

The boat rides excellent.  I appears to splash down in 3 ft+ seas sending the spray 20 or so feet in the air and if you have a head or quartering wind it blows the water over right on the console area.


The weight is a thought.  I have been planning to modify the fuel set up.  Each engine has its own tank.  I wanted to tie them in so I could valve off and run off one or the other.

I will try it with a full rear tank and empty front and reverse them to see if it makes any difference.

I know it does not feel like it is quite so bad when there is only 25 or 30 gallons in each tank.  250 gallons of fuel is pretty heavy.

I

[tx_t]

It is not nearly as wet with the wind at your back.

t

[Capt. Bob]

I will.  It is actually Keith Knecht's old boat.  I noticed you posted a picture of her parted next to Keith's house here I picked her up the day I bought her.

I remember that pic.

If you've been following the Forum lately, you know that Keith and his son have yet another 281 they're working on.

Good luck.

[gran398]

She may ride fine. But if her crew calls her "Wet Willie" (that was a good 70's band).... well.....we can do better than "Wet Willie".

We need to address why she is digging. And not the tanks. Get the bow up enough to stop that heavy water on the forward entry.

Are you running counter-rotating 200's?

[tx_t]

Counter 225s

[gran398]

Good deal.

This weight issue is now independent of torque (rollover) to the port side.

[tx_t]

gran

Are you in Wilmington?  I live out in Riegelwood