Re-power on an Xscape

[numlaar]

Hey all,

So I am tired of fighting my old crossflow on my 1978' Xscape 190 BR.

I picked up a real cheap 1994 Ocean Pro 200hp, and plan on re-powering with it. (Currently running an 83' 175hp).

The re-power will add about 125lbs because of the weight difference between the two motors, and with the extra extension bracket I have to use mount it (20" transom, and 25" motor).
I realize I have an oddball hull, but figured it would be similar to other re-power questions with some other hulls.

my questions:
1. I am wondering overall if this will cause me any particular problems?
2. Max HP rating for the hull is 185HP, will going to a 200hp be a big deal? (was too good a deal to pass up, and the 175hp is basically the same motor).
3. This is a self bailing cockpit but not in the traditional sense (it doesn't have the scuppers at the transom), instead it has two floor drains in the backish corners, that have tubing that go to two thru-hulls that sit on the side at the very back.  they are about 1-2" above the water now with the 175hp, I am sure with the extra weight its going to put that at or below the waterline. Is that an issue? (should drain when I take off).
4. Any other tips or suggestions?

Thanks!

[wingtime]

How much higher is the deck than the thru hulls?  as long as the deck is higher than the thru hulls the deck will still drain even if the thru hulls are at or below the water line as long as the deck is above the water line.  If the thru hulls end up at or below the water line I'd recommend you install check valves in the hose between the drains and the thru hulls.  I don't know much about that particular hull.

[numlaar]

How much higher is the deck than the thru hulls?  as long as the deck is higher than the thru hulls the deck will still drain even if the thru hulls are at or below the water line as long as the deck is above the water line.  If the thru hulls end up at or below the water line I'd recommend you install check valves in the hose between the drains and the thru hulls.  I don't know much about that particular hull.

It works kinda the way it does on others with the little trench... I guess I should just go take a picture and upload it, would probably be easier.... but until I can, here's the best description I can give:

The drains are in the deck itself (flat), like sink drains. they are down in these tiny trenches, so it about 1/2-3/4 below the rest of the deck. This whole assembly sits about 2-3 inches above the thru-hulls themselves, which they are connected to by hoses. Hope that makes sense? So to answer, yes no matter what the drains would be higher than the thru hulls always.

[seabob4]

It's not about the drains being higher than the t/hulls, it's about the drains being higher than the waterline.  That's the $64K question...

[Capt. Bob]

Sounds to me that you have displacement cockpit drains not unlike the CCP.  The extra weight will cause water to......

1. Enter when you launch from a steep ramp.

2. Enter when weight challenged friends (or possibly yourself) stand near the transom.

Now, with that stated, you can prevent that by plugging the drain holes when these situations occur. Various plugs exist for this task.

Here's what I used.
viewtopic.php?p=42650#p42650

What you can't see look like this???


Probably not exactly the same (or location) but similar to (exact same principle though).
viewtopic.php?p=24821#p24821

Yes, your cockpit will drain when you get on a plane. You can then pull the plugs if you like and again it will drain. If you don't experience an abundance of water on the deck (think rain or a tsunami) then no need to remove them at all. Put them in before you launch, no rain, weight doesn't matter (to a degree of course) at this point. and the seas are relatively calm, you're good to go........

Here's the disclaimer (for my advice):

My advice comes strictly from experience, mine, not anyone else so.....

If I'm you, I'd take the above with a grain of salt and again....

Good luck.

[numlaar]

For #'s 1 & 2, it does that now anyways... ;)

Your picture is spot on to what they look like from the inside! Nice, I cant get a camera in to snap a pic.

The biggest difference that I can see, is that before, when the boat was at rest, they would sit above the waterline... now I have a feeling with the extra weight, they are going to be at the waterline, or even slightly below, but I guess the drain plug idea is a simple easy fix!

Advice disclaimer duly noted. (and funny too) ;)

Pics, I added to my intro post on the stop lurking thread:

Intro Post

Thanks so much for the tip!

[Capt. Bob]

OK,
Now I remember the post. I've looked at so many lately, they're beginning to look all alike.

I used the plug method on my 84 CCP. As stated, it was my method to overcome water backing through the drains on the hull sides. There was always a little water "trapped" in the hose and you have to be aware of the hose clogging with debris (leaves,fishing line,scales) and blast them out from time to time with a water hose.

Good luck.

[GoneFission]

Where is the battery (batteries?) on the XScape?  If it's in the rear - just move it up forward (under a seat or something) and it should make up for the extra motor weight.

[numlaar]

Where is the battery (batteries?) on the XScape?  If it's in the rear - just move it up forward (under a seat or something) and it should make up for the extra motor weight.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I do not really see anyway to do this... currently, they are in fact all the way at the back, on either side of the splashwell, under two flip-up seat covers:



They are in those two compartments you see with the hinges (1 on each side).


Moving them would not be any easy task... The only place I could even think to put them would be 1. either all the way to the front in the bow storage, or 2. in the two dual consoles. (there are no other seats to put them under)

For 1. that would cost me a good portion of my very limited storage space, and probably a gajillion dollars in tinned battery cable to run it (from stern to bow, ouch!).
for 2. I would have to cut open the consoles (they are just empty space), but still would require either finding doors for them, or having some made, plus about half a gajillion dollars in battery cable (not quite so far to run).

This is it for storage on the boat, the three compartments in the bow:



The front most one is an anchor box, the two side ones hold all my life jackets.


I do intend at some point to open the consoles up, but just am not really ready for that right now. But that is a good consideration.

I am actually thinking of building an extended swim platform on the back anyway, and redesign the inside ... but that is way off yet, and still uncertain. The wife really wants more of a deckboat, but I just can't afford one!

[slvrlng]

So just what is in the consoles? You could put a hatch on each side for access, put a tray in and run the cables. Yes, the cables are expensive, I just ran 30 feet of 1/0 red and black. Just under 300 bucks, ouch! But since using the larger size I have had zero issues with cranking or any other electrical. If you do move the batteries forward you would gain storage in your 2 boxes at the transom. Your motor has a 35 amp stator and on a run of that distance you would need to use at least 1 gauge.

http://www.bestboatwire.com/  They have a calculator on the site that tells you what gauge you need.

sister company of genuinedealz.com difference is one includes shipping and the other doesn't.

[numlaar]

OK so I went ahead and did the re-power yesterday...

I am uploading all of the photos to my gallery here: http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... hp?cat=721

Here are a few highlights:

before:


After the old crossflow removed:



Transom cleaned and ready to go:


the new 5" lift brackets installed:


and after the new 25" shaft Ocean Pro was hung:


The test drive went wonderfully. The OceanPro is a screamer, and I could not have asked it to run any better.!!! This thing is FAST now. (wish I had a GPS or Speedo), but I think I really picked up about 10mph (the Crossflow wouldn't ever hit max RPM).

It did put the drain holes for the cockpit about 50/50 below the water line, but it wasn't enough for any water to backup in. The splashwell (which was always close to the water before), now the drains are even with the water when at rest. It puts water over the top when backing, but otherwise is fine.

So alls well that ends well.

But yes, I do believe I will eventually cut open the consoles, and put some doors in, and move the batteries up.

Thanks for the tips all.

Num

[numlaar]

Just a quick update on this... the first test ride was only a few mins... I mainly wanted to see that the motor ran. I was also running double oil for the crossflow from the recent re-ring, (25:1) which is a bit heavy for this motor. I drained half the tank, and got the mix closer to 40:1, and ran it a few hours. Motor is amazing! I can't even begin to tell you how much better this looper runs.

I did add a plain ol' mechanical Speedometer, and at 5200 RPM, was doing 52mph. Not sure what that means in the grans scheme of things, I know these water pressure speedo's are not very accurate. (That was running the stock 17p stainless prop).

I bought a GPS with my xmas money, and will be installing it soon, but I have to make/mold a new dash extension first. Once I get it installed, I will run it again, and let you all know how fast it really goes. I can say, it planes in literally nothing flat now! hehe :) Nothing like a 200HP on a <19ft. boat!