'76 22 Osprey re-build

[Que Pasa]

I'm having a problem figuring my tabbing on my transom skin. If I Tab my skin I will have build up from tabbing. How do you get the skin flat to attach your core. I am looking at 3/16 th of an inch gap.

[RickK]

The tabbing/lamination could be all done at the same time.  Cut the laminations pieces long enough to include a 4, 8 and 12" overlay on the hull bottom and the hull sides. Here is an example:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.msg87558#msg87558

If you have to build up the open transom to get it to the full height use some melamine board - here is Shine's rebuild on a flatback - he cut out the majority of the old transom and left a lip all around to tie into.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294&sid=e73f5114e6edb157799b560cd2e12b8a

[Que Pasa]

Thanks Rick but I am closing mine and using the melamine as a dam on the skin. I understand all that, the part I don't get is how to flatten out the inner skin after layup and tabbing. The tabbing in the corners where the tabbing is have created a 3/16" gap where the core will attach to the inner skin. I want this area flat so I don't have problems with the Glue ( filler putty) not getting a full seal or getting air between the lam. Hope that explains it a little better.

[RickK]

QP, I know you're going to have a full transom and you could build it up all at once wet on wet, like in the first link I posted.
Have you already tabbed the perimeter of the transom separately?  In corners where the glass overlaps previous overlaps, it'll build up quickly. 3/16" is like 6 layers of 1708.
I think we need some pics so we can see what you're doing.

[Shine]

you do your tabbing in one shot, let it cure, grind back the edges and sand the biax stitching off. 

Then, I mix up a little epoxy and woodflour (to something of a ketchup consistency) and wipe it over the transition.  This last little trick ensures no air bubbles

[northfork]

Que
Post a picture of what your talking about. Are you talking about the area of the transom that you filled in. If so I cut out a piece of glass that fit the cut out after a few layers and used that to get the inside face as flush as I could. Then glassed over that.

[Que Pasa]

thanks guys, Transom skin-  1 layer 1708. 3 inch tab. 2nd layer 1708. 6 inch tab. 3rd layer 1708. 10 inch tab. Then I put in transom core. In the center of the transom bettween the core and final skin there is a gap. Where the core meets transom where the tabbing has taken place is flush. The tabbing has caused this and I dont really want to fill it with another layer of 1708. Four would just be over kill.

[Que Pasa]

Basically the tabbing has created buildup which is not allowing me to get the core flush.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Just use a deeper-notched trowel to spread the glue when you bed in the core. Should take up any deviation...

[Shine]

Grind out the core to make it tapered. Or use a router to remove material, so its close to flush.

[dirtwheelsfl]

That too^...

[northfork]

Que Pasa
So what did you do with the transom core? Didn't give up did you. I was hoping you were going to pass my project so I could follow you.
I'm hoping to start adding layers of glass on the inside of my hull this weekend and working out where my bulkheads are going to be.
Chuck

[Que Pasa]

Chuck, No giving up here. Needed some supplies, silica, and waiting for a couple of days where we're assured of no rain. I think to solve my problem might try a layer of mat. Have'nt really decided yet.

[RickK]

QP, if you can get some pics into your gallery we can help you post them.  It would make everything SOOO much easier on the rest of us to see what you're encountering.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0

[northfork]

Que
That might be your best answer. use mat but tear the edges. Makes for a smooth transition. just cut the mat to fit the area that you need to build up. might be two layers. if you get it close you are good. I used a deep notched trowel to spread bedding expoxy
Chuck