'76 22 Osprey re-build

[Que Pasa]

Will the coosa be strong enough to support a porta bracket. I thought the ply would be stronger.

[Aswaff400]

heres a link to my rebuild,
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9842.0

 take a look at it along with the several other rebuilds currently going on at the moment...

i went all composite for my rebuild. it was my first rebuild and it will probably be my last rebuild.

[RickK]

...and it will probably be my last rebuild.

 
I know the feeling well.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Not boring at all. You have a nice boat there and a lot of potential. As for Coosa being strong enough, it is as long as you use the bluewater 26 and put in knees. 1 Sheet of 1 1/2 will do the knees and the full transom with little waste. Check out Aarons build above and Capt Matts build (flat back but same principle) as Capt Matt used nothing but Coosa and runs his everyday for his lively hood viewtopic.php?f=39&t=5724

[Aquasport Commodore]

Oh don't let Gran see those casting deck hatches, he'll love them  <!-- s:shock: --><!-- s:shock: -->

As for the your trailer, look at where the bunks end just prior to the transom, you can see a hook. When you tear into that hull, support it well and get that hook out the best you can. Here is a thread by a GURU builder here on the site that will help with the hook. I know it's based on the flat back but gives your great direction.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.0

 When you flip her, you can finish it out by fairing.

[Que Pasa]

AC, I was under there and did check for that. I didn't see a hook, maybe the pic is deceiving. But looking at the pic I do see what your talking about. I'll have to check it again. Hope I don't have to deal with that.

[Que Pasa]

Pretty flat here...

[Aquasport Commodore]

Run a 3-5 foot straight edge under the hull from edge of transom forward. See if there is space under the edge and then move the edge forward from the transom edge about a foot. That will be your real test. If it is, it wont be bad to fix and shouldn't be much.

On another note, if you are going to reuse your rub rail, Lewis cleaned his up with light sanding and chemicals. His is a blue color. WOW it looks great and almost brand new.

[Que Pasa]

Don't think so, I'm thinking indigo blue with white bottom. Thin black rub rail.

[Que Pasa]

Getting ready to break the seal and start the redo. Gonna tackle the transom first. Would like some feedback on transom size. I will be closing the transom and putting a crown in the transom cap. Is there a general width everyone has been using. I don't want to make it to wide and take up a lot of room from the interior, however I would like to have a small fish box in there.

[Que Pasa]

One more question, how deep in from the transom is everyone making that first cut on the floor.

[RickK]

I'll jump in but only from a rebuild sense, not a 222 rebuild, and only what I've observed on the enclosed transom rebuilds.
The transom thickness is usually 2 x 3/4" plywood with 2 layers of mat and one of cloth in between.  You can go with composite at 1.5" thickness and then add glass. You'll want to beef up the original transom skin with a couple layers of cloth first, then trowel on some thickened resin to glue it all together.  You'll end up with about 2" thickness.
As for the depth (front to back) of the transom cap remember that the transom itself is at an angle away from the boat so it you want to put anything in the cabinet that results from closing the transom in, the top will be deeper than the bottom because you'll want the cabinet to be straight up and down.  Usually pumps of all kinds (tabs, power pole), fuel filters, etc are mounted in that area. Seems the average is 12" depth and I am not sure what that will give you at the bottom, maybe 8"?
So it sounds like you're not redoing the floor?  Once you cut into the boat you'll know if you need to go deeper.
There will be others jumping in here soon.  I the meantime start digging into the 222 and 222 FB rebuilds forums where most of your questions have been answered many times over.
Oh and what year is the boat?  Looks to be early 70s.  Should have a HIN stamped into the back of the transom.

[Que Pasa]

Thanks Rick it's a 76, and everything you mentioned is spot on. I hope not to have to do the floor but I think I will. How much of the floor away away from the transom should I cut away to give me the access I need.

[RickK]

I think you'll need about 18" of floor and liner cut back so you have room to work.  You'll need to tab 6, 8 and 12" to secure the transom, so you won't have much extra room at 18".

[Callyb]

I think you'll need about 18" of floor and liner cut back so you have room to work.  You'll need to tab 6, 8 and 12" to secure the transom, so you won't have much extra room at 18".

I agree 100% Rick.

Que Pasa, All I can offer is what I am doing on my flatback... I am at 17" on the top of the transom and that left me with 12" of depth at the sole height. I raised my sole 3 1/2"...