245 Explorer Battery Shelf Failure

[flycaster1]

Has anyone had a similar failure of the shelf in the aft wiring compartment where the left side of the shelf has actually snapped and broken from the weight of the battery(s). The batteries I removed were the same size but the battery tray on the left where the failure has occurred was slightly larger.
 Any suggestions on how to repair and beef up this area so it won't happen again.
 Included also is a "before" picture of my wiring mess that I have to re-work.
 "After" picture next Spring as this could take a little while working with good days getting fewer and more spread out.

As always thanks in advance for your replies.

[wingtime]

What is your shelf made out of? Its hard to tell in the pics but it looks like fiberglass. Mine is made out of what looks like 3/4" starboard or somtype of vinyl board that is sitting on top of the strangers.

[flycaster1]

What is your shelf made out of? Its hard to tell in the pics but it looks like fiberglass. Mine is made out of what looks like 3/4" starboard or somtype of vinyl board that is sitting on top of the strangers.

I believe it's the same thing but on the left side it is brittle and snapped like a broken leg. Sharp jagged edge protrudes to the stern.

[Bergertime]

Mine is in a battery tray that sits on top of the stringer back there.  

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[flycaster1]

Mine is in a battery tray that sits on top of the stringer back there.  

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Does anyone have a picture of how your batteries are set up on a 245?

[Bergertime]

I'll see if I can get down there b/f dark today and snap a couple for you.

The other Bruce (Wingtime) or Marc (Flounder Pounder) may have some stock footage on their phone or computer that they may be able to post today.

Marc / Bruce / Seabob, you guys got anything?

 
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[flounderpounder225]

One of the first things I did was move the batts to the console, I don't have anything from prior owner setup sorry.. pretty sure they were not in any tray, just on the fiberglass platform with snaps and a strap?

[wingtime]

I was looking in photobucket and I didn't see any pics.  I had the boat out yesterday and I was going to snap some pics of it this morning.... but I forgot to!

[flycaster1]

What battery types are you others mixing up back in the battery area?
I have heard one cranking battery and one deep cycle battery is the way to go.
On the other hand that would not be the best way to alternate between batteries to share the usage.

[RickK]

What battery types are you others mixing up back in the battery area?
I have heard one cranking battery and one deep cycle battery is the way to go.
On the other hand that would not be the best way to alternate between batteries to share the usage.

That's what I have - works great when I'm camping for a few days.

[Capt. Bob]

On the other hand that would not be the best way to alternate between batteries to share the usage.

IMHO, it depends on how you use your boat.

I use that method. Both are deep cycle that also crank. Group 31s. I don't overnight a lot (though that was one reason for getting a cabin) and have always rotated batteries after each use. Works for me because that's the way I generally use my boat. A very good method if you are a day-tripper and aren't running a ton of accessories. I rather my bait dies(single biggest draw on my system) than the motor not start so the second is a backup. Wired correctly though, you can use both so the start/house works too.

I find that I can start/stop/start during an outing and run the GPS/Sounder/VHF and live well(though I don't every trip use live)and not need to switch over.

This all predisposes you have two batteries in good shape.
That's the key (and probably will start yet another debate on brand/type/maintenance).

Good luck.

[seabob4]

A good deep cycle will start any O/B out there (even Vrods, but more on that).  They are just constructed differently than start batts.  A deep cycle's goal is to provide a long lasting useable charge, as well as to be able to withstand repeated deep discharges and charging cycles.  Their plates are quite a bit thicker than start batt plates.  They won't have the same (as high) CCA ratings as start batts, but the good ones are up around 750 to 800...plenty for starting.

Vrods, per the manual, require a start batt with a minimum of 1000 MCA, the reason being is that their systems are extremely voltage sensitive.  As we all know, there is some voltage drop during the starting process, Vrods can only stand so much.  The 1000 MCA batts won't drop as far as 750s and 800s.  In reality, Merc could do some re-designing in their systems to allow for a greater voltage drop, but they'd rather just let the consumer supply more power...

[flycaster1]

Thank you for all the replies.
Can I get some more input on the way your dual batteries are mounted in your explorer or other boat with the 245 style hull.
My shelf back there has failed and need input.
Thx.

[flycaster1]

Bump  :)

[Bergertime]

Flycaster,

I know I still owe you a pic but my batts are mounted in a tray that sits on top of the stringer behind and just to the left (looking back) of the livewell.  The tray is mounted to the stringer and the batteries are held in place by retaining straps that screw into the tray via threaded poles.

I have two of these although if I was doing it over I would get ones with covers to help in keeping them clean:

http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/Attwood ... 7AodaEoA5Q

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