1973 222 rebuild

[kidd277]

Hello to all. I’m Clayton, thanks for checking out my rebuild. Let’s just start out by saying I have little fiberglass experience but plenty of want and drive to bring this jewel back to life. I recently bought a 1973 AQUASPORT 222, not in the best of shape but like any other boat on this forum it has a ton of potential. I’m hoping to frequently update this post and let you all in on the action as she comes back to life.
So far I’ve removed the console, cut out the floor, removed the gas tank and now I’m thinking of removing the boat from the trailer to rebuild the transom. The transom was recently replaced but was only replaced with a half transom. Due to the fact I wish to build a full transom it will soon be cut out and replace as that is my next item on the list. Will post pictures soon... please enjoy and any pointers are appreciated.

[Aquasport Commodore]

FYI, run a cross brace across the cap in front of the transom before you do any cutting. Once that is done and prior to removing the stringers, if level, leave it on the trailer. Do the transom and the square up on the ground for stringers, etc.

Oh and don't forget, we love pics the more boat porn the better.

[kidd277]

Sorry it took so long to post pictures... anyways here they are.

The first three pictures are as soon as i got the boat home. As i said before the tansom had recent work done but will soon (hopefully within the week) be removed and replaced with a  full transom.






Console out/ready to floor removal


Lots of rot and moisture in deck


Floor and gas tank gone ready to brace around the transom and across top cap to begin replacing the transom.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Oh how I remember those days... Looking good. Plenty of research material here to help you along the way.

[Hazymae222]

Hi Clayton. Great boat you have there. I have a 1979 22-2 and am going to be replacing the fuel tank this winter. It's not leaking yet, but its 35 years old and don't want to have trouble in the middle of next summer. I have seen a lot of other posts where people talk about the fuel tank coffin box. Something the fuel tank rests in without being in the actual bilge of the boat. I've had the deck hatch up where my fuel tank is and haven't noticed anything i would refer to as a coffin holding the fuel tank in place. A bulkhead for and aft and foamed in between the stringers. What did you find when you pulled the fuel tank out? Was it resting on the bottom of the boat? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[kidd277]

Hazymae222, Mine had no "coffin" to speak of. What you are saying you see is pretty accurate as far as what i experienced with mine.(bulkheads and foam on the sides) As far as what the tank sat on, two small ledges built into the inner side of each stringers and one small ledge built into the aft bulkhead. These kept the gas tank say 3 to 6 inches off the hull. Hope that answers your question, If you would like me to send you pictures of the "ledges" just let me know.

[Hazymae222]

Clayton, are you going to reinstall your new tank in the same fashion or modify things a bit?

[kidd277]

Clayton, are you going to reinstall your new tank in the same fashion or modify things a bit?

Im really not sure yet. When the time comes ill do some research on the forum and go from there.

[kidd277]

So in the past week I’ve made some progress. I decided to go with marine ply and poly. After making a trip to pick up some supplies I began to brace the hull to cut out the “new” transom.
I started about 30” in front of the transom and  cut (2) 2x3 precut stud boards to wedge from under the top cap to chine in a “X” fashion.  I then put a ratchet strap around the hull at the same plane. Doing so in hopes that this would keep the hull from flexing either which way when the transom is removed

[kidd277]

Next , the challenge of bracing around the transom itself. I decided to lower the front of the trailer and place cinder blocks under the transom.  I then lifted the front of the trailer until the hull sat evenly on the blocks and the rollers. I then placed boards along the sides and fastened them to the blocks with tapcon screws.  I then placed a board above and below the transom to keep the hull from flexing outward. I know , I know …..it looks “rigged” but it works and just wait till you see how I had to do the dam.

[kidd277]

Time to cut the transom out!!!!


Next came the grinding! Which by the way turned out to be about an hour and a half of complete torture. (Note to self: stop being cheap and buy a 7” grinder already.)



Cutting a template for transom out of foam I had laying around.




Now like I said the dam took some serious “rigging”. It consisted of a ¾” melamine board with 7 to 8 layers of mold release wax.

[kidd277]

The lay up of the “skin” which went like so… 1.5 oz mat,  1708,  1.5 oz mat,  1708.

I am now in the process of cutting out the transom which will be glued and clamped into the boat (hopefully) by the end of the week. My only question is…. Will 2 pieces of ¾ marine ply be enough? That’s what was recommended by the fiberglass shop where I buy my materials, just wanted to get another opinion.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Great job so far and quick  Your 2 layers of 3/4 inch will be good. Figure it like this, by the time you have 3 to 4 layers of glass on the outside and the same on the inside plus the thickened resin and glass between the 2 panels your looking at close to or all over 2 inches thick. Should be plenty strong.  I take it your going to run a bracket with a single engine?

[Capt. Bob]

Nothing "rigged" about that.

Now if you were marketing that framework, you might want to add a little light stain and varnish.

[RickK]

Hey, as long as it gets the job done, I'm all for it.  Nice progress!!
Ditto on what gman said.
One thing I might add, as a wise gentleman told me the same thing, I would drill a hole in two of the corners of the transom and stick a wooden dowel in to hold them in alignment while lamming them.  Another thing is I would lam them on a flat surface with lots of weight on them.  After a day or two then clamp it into the boat with thickened resin.