Forward Bilge drainage

[mvandale]

I purchased a 225 Explorer earlier this year, it has 2 bilge pumps, one aft and one forward.  At first the forward float switch did not work.  I then noticed it would fill up with rain, nothing drained to the aft, that was completely dry.  So it doesn't appear that there is any drain from forward to aft unless something is plugged up.  Is there a way to drain or keep this area drained like a plug somewhere ?  I'm concerned about the winter because I have a leak in one of the windows so when/if it rains this area may fill up and freeze damaging the pump, switch or other problems.  What can I do to make sure this drains if anything?

[Capt. Bob]

OK, let's break this down.

It's a 1996 and you keep it in a slip. Is this still the case?

These hulls are marketed as having a "plumb bow" that allows the cabin to be mounted forward creating more cockpit space and cabin room. That stated, when the hull is level (more or less) water that enters the forward bilge will often stay there. Hence the forward pump. These will occur even with this style hull on a trailer unless it is elevated to a fairly high extent in the bow.

This means that the forward bilge is connected to the rear bilge. Unless clogged (either by debris or intentional) water can flow from the front, through the fuel tank coffin and exit into the rear bilge. This is most likely to occur when on plane rather than at rest.

Water can enter the front bilge at several locations but I experience the most entering my hull via the bow railing connections. The anchor hause pipe can be another entry point. Still, I think you'll find that a fair amount of water can accumulate in the forward bilge before the float switch is activated (dependent on its location).

In my model. I can check the drain ways via the deck plate for the forward bilge pump access and by removal of the rear fish box insert for the rear bilge. This is different than on your model year (rear bilge) so you'll need to look around to see how to access, if possible.

With all that stated, I have plugged both the forward and rear drainage way pipes in an effort to keep the tank compartment as dry as possible (not allowing the water to pass bow to stern).

These is what your hull looks like below deck.



The center compartment amidships is where your fuel tank resides. Hard to see but the little dark circles at each end are the drainage holes that allow the water to move front to back (and reverse also) down the center line of the keel. The tank is mounted on a platform that allows the water to pass through the compartment underneath it.

It's the nature of our beast due to the hull design. You can fiddle with the float switch location (though working room is limited) or better yet, check all the areas where water can enter and seal appropriately. I think you'd be surprised at how much water can "leak" through the various connection points around the bow area. Since you know of the window leak, there's a start. Other than that, you'll need to get the forward bilge working on auto but there will always be trace amounts (depending on the weather) present.

Good luck and I'll moved this thread to the plumbing forum.

[mvandale]

Hi Capt. Bob, yes it's a 1996 that I have posted about earlier this year.  I do see a little water always, probably from the areas you mentioned and the window.  The boat is still in the water and the float switch has been fixed so it keeps it mostly pumped out now (with the battery switch on), which I think needs to be wired direct to battery but that's another issue.  I can see the aft bilge pump looking through the battery access door in the aft area.  I have not seen any water back there or seen the pump kick on even on plane, with water in the front.  I am mainly concerned about the winter in CT and freezing. It sounds like water should flow, I've looked for a plug or an area for water to go but didn't see anything.  It is a small area but I plan on checking the boat this afternoon with all this big rain we're getting, I'll look more carefully for some kind of drainage area.  I guess worst case I'll have it shrink wrapped and put a gallon of antifreeze in the front just in case water gets in.

[Capt. Bob]

Sounds like a plan.

The early 90 models had a different access to the rear bilge (large removable hatch). That design is not unlike the forward hatches on 80s model Ospreys with drainage ways molded into the support under the cover. While it seems like a good system, it still allows water to enter the rear bilge (as it did in the Osprey compartments). That designed changed in 94 but you guys still get water in those side and stern compartments at times.

Members with WA/EX models from this era will at times notice water being pumped from the forward bilge when they hook the trailer to their vehicle. The change in attitude doesn't need to be great in moving water back to the forward bilge pump but to get a complete drain, the bow has to be raised a significant amount. That stated, I've seen water in the rear bilge stacked up against the bilge side of the fuel tank bulkhead (following a heavy rain) when the boat was in the water (again, I have that passageway plugged). The hull appears (to me anyway) to "lean forward".

Your anti freeze idea may be the best plan if you are expecting some rain but not enough to trip the pump.

Good luck.

[wingtime]

I can tell you that my forward bilge does not drain or run aft to the aft bilge unless I raise the front of my trailer considerably.  My forward float switch quit working again but since I trailer my boat I don't worry about it.  As mentioned if you run the boat on plane the forward compartment will run aft on its own.

[RickK]

Everytime I lower my 230 onto the trailer hitch of the truck it is enough angle difference to activate the forward bilge and pump tons of water that was sitting bewteen the forward and aft bilge (like Wing is talking about) out the side.

[mvandale]

I just looked harder and I do see a white pipe for the drain to the aft. The pump did pump out most water but there's still a couple inches there and it's at least and inch above the whole. I suppose it's a little bow down so it doesn't drain? But, before I fixed the float switch, the water level rise way above the pump itself. To me this seems too high and should of drained some. How long is the opening, I put a coat hanger all the way in didn't feel anything stop it.  Once I get it on the trailer I know how to check this now, thanks for all the info..

[RickK]

As CB said, it will take a lot of angle change, front to back, to get the retained water from the front section to the aft.  I have a cinder block under my jack and still can't get it high enough to do that.
Here is a profile drawing of the deep vee hulls, which most of the late 80's & later used or the same concept.  The liner may be different but the hulls were pretty close to the same concept, just longer or shorter.
The top image shows that the lowest part of the hull is actually in the cabin area and if the liner floor is level the hull bottom slopes from aft toward that deepest part.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2811&title=as-246-deep-vee-intr&cat=546

You can also see the lower area in the CCP lower left pic in this brochure
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2849&title=as-all-models-brochure11-1980&cat=572

Here are my boats - the 230 on the right.  Follow the chine from back to front and you can see the lower portion of the hull - right under the cabin.

[gran398]

Getting back to the forward pump. As mentioned,  the lowest point in your boat is the forward bilge....until you plane her off and it drains to the transom.

It will always hold a bit of water....by design. But will only hold so much, its a closed sump forward. Without a pump will overflow and drain to the aft bilge and the main auto-bilge pump. She'll run heavy at first if the sump is full....but will quickly lighten if your main pump is in order. Plane her off....everything changes when you dump the weight.

All good. Run her and enjoy